redbanditz28

I have had this problem for about 2 years now. I am constantly trying to find the most cost effective and reliable solution ro reaching my goal of making nearly 700 + rwhp and torque. I have emailed numerous engine builders with so many choices to pick from. I am kind of at a loss. I mean Forced induction sounds cool, but its very expensive. I DON'T want to run nitrous. I was thinking, if it were possible to achieve that much power on a engine withouth a power adder, i am not neccessarily sure if i would want that on tap all the time i am driving. I mean there is a package from rapid motorsports (Rapid Dominator Series 402CI LS2 Crate Engine) that made nearly 553 rwhp. That sounds great, but there are options of short blocks, long blocks, complete engines, head and cam packages, low compression, forged engines, and then the whole power adder thing with turbos and blowers. I mean, where do i go? Can some one help me here? What did you guys do to make that kind of power and how much did it cost you? GMR speed is running that deal on the 364 ci long block with fuel system and twin turbo kit with free installation for $15000. That seemed ideal. But i won't have that money in time and i would have to pay to ship my car to thier place to take advantage of their offer. In general, i am looking to spend about $16000 at most on en engine setup or engine setup with a power adder that will get me to that point minus the cost of installation, rear end, and transmission, and suspension. But i would want it street friendly, and reliable. Sorry for the length of the post.

redbanditz28

I mean if you go with a power adder, i am assuming that you run at low boost, to make less power and thus getting better fuel economy. Where as if you went with a vuilt engine making big power by itself, you would have to live with that as is and would probably get worse fuel economy than a smaller engine with less hp and low boost.

redbanditz28

Just to give you a feel for what my current plans are, i was planning on getting a forged 370 iron bock engine built and shipped to nj and then paying my mechanic to instal it. I would then go to cartek which is near me, and purchase a rear mount turbo system and have them install and tune it for me. They seemed pretty sure i would be able to reach my goals of getting my car into the low 10's or high 9's. of course that is along with a good suspension setup and tranny. But then i was wondering, if i should go with a bigger block than the 370. Then i was wondering about the GMR speed setup that made 700+ rwhp and the special they are running. I mean i would assume that their test car must have had impressive track numbers. But at the same time i heard no mention of transmission upgrades. My point being, that there are many options. i mean i am looking for much hp, but good track times too. I am not quite sure what the range of hp and torque is needed to get a car into the high 9's or low 10's on 93 octane. ITs one of those things where i want the power when i need it at the track, but would be mostly used for on the street at a safer hp level and better fuel economy level. Just to give you all a feel for what i am looking for.

BrandonDrecksage

iTrader: (1)

700 rwhp is pretty much impossible on a n/a engine. You would need a lot of cubes and a very very radical cam. That will kill drivability and mpg. F.i. would be good cause when your not boosting, you'll be in vacum which will get good mpg and the car wouldn't ned a very radical cam. Down side would be boost coming on quick, as opposed to the linear power curve a n/a engine gives you. Nitrous would be good cause you could make 400rwhp on a mild cam and heads set up. have forged pistons and throw a progessive 250-300 shot at the car. The question as far as reaching 9s. Its not so much the power, its more about suspension and the drive mod. You'll noticed, some people running high 9s are trapping 150...or 140. The higher trap shows that the guy is spinning, more power, more capability to go faster, can't get it to teh ground. The lower trap shows the guy is better at launch and having traction down the track.

Urban Legend

iTrader: (5)

Do a Procharger D1SC and be done with it. Call Bob at EPP for your kit.

Y2K Z28

iTrader: (1)

If you dont want the power all the time its not very hard to change the boost on a forced industion setup at the track.

http://www.dsm.org/tools/calchp.htm

Scroll to the bottom of the page and plug in the numbers you wanna run.

MaxFubar

Turbo setup would probably be the easiest way to get there.

jpat1023

For YOU, it sounds like forced induction is the way to go....turn down the boost for everyday driving, turn up the boost when you meet a heads/cam SS at a light

MillaTK

What you sound like you really want, is what you don't want. Nitrous. You can run a tamer car on the street, and the 700RWHP you are looking for is there for you, upon demand. I think its nice to have as many options as there are. Sure it makes the decisions a bit harder, but if there was only one way to make power, then everybody would have the same setup as you. Where's the fun in that!?

redbanditz28

Thats true. Man its like pulling teeth though to make a decision. I mean i have researched options so much, i see pros and cons to all my options. You know something though, i have been fixated on the idea of a 370 iron block with a turbo (front or rear mount). I mean with funds and all, i am guessing a 370 is right where i want to be. Would be nice to go higher in displacement, but the nest iron block up is the 408 right? And if i am going turbo, i wouldn't mind extra strength in iron vs aluminum. I wonder how much of a difference it makes later on down the road between having an iron vs alum block. I am talking about having multiple passes on your engine with high mileage and forced induction. Anyway, i guess right now the 2 options are between taking advantage of GMR speeds package deal or buying a completely built 370 engine and getting my mechanic to install it and having cartek install and tune a turbo system of some sort. Sound like a good idea to you guys? I know i gotta like it, but i am asking you guys in the sense that there shouldnt be any harm in my choices right?

PowerShift408

iTrader: (44)

I would go with the 408... guess I'm kinda partial though.

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

I think having a lot of options is neat.....that way you're less likely to see combinations duplicated. Not everyone has the same setup as a result.

MaxFubar

This also provides a big test-bed for what works and what does NOT. So you can look at various options and see what works best for your given budget. Remember though, out of Reliable, Fast, and Cheap, you only get to pick two...

99Hawk262

iTrader: (19)

That is only too true.

Urban Legend

iTrader: (5)

Is fast and cheap available as a combo?

bouncnbars

a good place to look for ls upgrades is LGMotorsports.com. this is lou gigliotti's shop in dallas tx. if anyone can make 700 on the ground he can. the mpg concern isn't that bad, as long as you keep the lead foot under control you'll be fine. if you don't want to go the route of strait motor, i would look into sts remote mount turbos. they have kits that will handle up to 1600hp, i'm putting a 800hp kit on my tahoe after i do a few more things to it.

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

i say build you a solid 408 bottom end with something like -14cc dish and run a small cc head like 59 cc or so and spray it.then later down the road if you tire of the spray you can sell your heads and get some 72 cc heads and put on a super/turbo charger. a 408 on spray is a solid combo and the added massive bottom end tq of nitrous will make your car scream off the line to get it moving to reach some quick times with being a mild combo while off the bottle.on a side note there is just something about a supercharger whine or the whistle of a hairdryer that just gets your blood boiling.

99camarosupersport

iTrader: (6)

I'm not sure how much power you could get out of it, but it seems people are building those L92 415ci engines fairly cheap. Not so sure you could reach 700rwhp with a head/cam package and full boltons but just another option. Personally if i have 15k to blow i would forge my stock LS1 and toss a couple turbo's on there. I could be totally wrong, but wouldn't they actually improve fuel economy? You would make hella power, and imagine how cool that hiss building up boost sounds and scares.