View Poll Results: Do you mod your car you owe on?
Yes
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93
72.66%
No
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16
12.50%
I've modded every peice in my pursuit of speed!
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19
14.84%
Voters: 128. You may not vote on this poll
Moding before the car is paid off?
#21
TECH Resident
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I owe and Im about to do a H/C package. I just did a 90/90 and I have other goodies for it too. I military and have it taken out automatically so I dont worry about it. I still have 12 years to go in the AF so the payments will be made, lol.
#22
TECH Enthusiast
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I just bought my car a little over a month ago and I've got an SLP lid so far but my girlfriend is getting me UMI SFCs and my parents are getting me a Pro 5.0 for Christmas.
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#24
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I wouldnt do anything crazy if I still owed alot on it b/c I work part time so get the hours that are available (full time people are first) but if I had a steady full time job/ paycheck I wouldnt heasitate on modding right away, just make sure the payment is made and that if anything breaks you can afford to fix it
#27
11 Second Club
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I waited until my 89 Formula was paid off to do anything major with the Knight Rider conversion I was doing. When I picked up my 2000, I started modding after about 4 months. I still have a little over 3 years until it's paid off. Mods I've done in the sig.
I think it's one of those things that if you know you have steady income and no matter what you'll be able to float the payment, go for it. I've worked at my same job for the last 11 1/2 years. It's not like I'm floating job to job trying to scrape up silver change to make my car payment.
I think it's one of those things that if you know you have steady income and no matter what you'll be able to float the payment, go for it. I've worked at my same job for the last 11 1/2 years. It's not like I'm floating job to job trying to scrape up silver change to make my car payment.
#29
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I would do bolt ons, but nothing like heads/cam, FI or something that will cost a lot of money. Spending thousands of dollars on mods doesnt make any sense, that money would make better sense going to paying it off.
Last edited by BLK85; 11-21-2006 at 12:28 AM.
#31
Teching In
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i have modded mine and still owe, but i wish i hadnt cuz i broke some stuff due to the extra power, and paying for a new tranny and rear end both within six months and still oweing monthly hurt my wallet and my credit cards bad... its a lot easier to get in this kinda trouble if you have the payment, looking back i definitely wish i woulda waited. just my .02 cents though
#34
Administrator
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Originally Posted by Starz T/A 17
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My Cobra is slightly modified and I still owe quite a bit on it.
My previous car, which was a leased '00 Z28, saw lots of nitrous.
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#35
On The Tree
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Here's the list of mods:
Engine:
Futral Racing F13 cam shaft 230/232 duration .595"/.585" lift (intake/exhaust)
Melling hydraulic lifters
TSP 7.40” hardened pushrods
Yella Terra 1.7 ratio roller rockers
Patriot Performance Ti retainers
Patriot Performance Golds double valve springs
Stock Heads slightly cleaned up
Rollmaster double roller timing set
LS6 ported oil pump
180 degree thermostat
LS6 PCV system valley cover
Induction:
Ram air modification (involves cutting the floor out of the air box so cold air is drawn from in front of the radiator)
K&N filter
TSP Clear air lid
Home ported throttle body
LS6 intake manifold with EGR deleted
Exhaust:
Stainless Kook’s 1 5/8” race longtubes with off road Y pipe
3” Dynomax intermediate pipe with QMH electric cutout
Dynomax Ultraflow muffler with 3” turndowns at the bumper
Fueling:
TNT, Nitrous Express, and NOS wet shot, 50 horsepower. Purge in the cowl, MSD window switch, pressure safety switch. Bottle mounted in the spare tire compartment. Control switches mounted in the console.
Drivetrain:
RAM VDS clutch with 980 disc, Adjustable master cylinder
Hurst Pro Billet shifter
Denny’s Nitrous Ready driveshaft with 1350 u-joints
Moser 12 bolt with 4.11 gears, spool, 33 spline non-C-clip axles
Chassis:
SLP subframe connectors
BMR tubular K-member
Suspension:
QA1 12 way adjustable shocks all four corners
275# QA1 springs on the front, stock springs on the rear
Stock upper A-arms
BMR tubular lower A-arms
Stock front swaybar
BMR adjustable pan hard bar
Stock torque arm
Global West spherical bearing/rubber bushing lower control arms with relocation brackets welded on the axle.
BMR rear swaybar
Wheels/tires:
Street: Silver painted ZR1 replicas 11” rear with 315/34/17 Sumitomos 9” fronts with 275/40/17’s
Strip: Stock 16” wheels with 245/50/16” Daytona’s front and 255/50/16 Mickey Thompson ET street radials rear
I still have about a year and half till it is paid off and I am in the process of building a forged short block for it.
So I guess the answer is YES, lol
Engine:
Futral Racing F13 cam shaft 230/232 duration .595"/.585" lift (intake/exhaust)
Melling hydraulic lifters
TSP 7.40” hardened pushrods
Yella Terra 1.7 ratio roller rockers
Patriot Performance Ti retainers
Patriot Performance Golds double valve springs
Stock Heads slightly cleaned up
Rollmaster double roller timing set
LS6 ported oil pump
180 degree thermostat
LS6 PCV system valley cover
Induction:
Ram air modification (involves cutting the floor out of the air box so cold air is drawn from in front of the radiator)
K&N filter
TSP Clear air lid
Home ported throttle body
LS6 intake manifold with EGR deleted
Exhaust:
Stainless Kook’s 1 5/8” race longtubes with off road Y pipe
3” Dynomax intermediate pipe with QMH electric cutout
Dynomax Ultraflow muffler with 3” turndowns at the bumper
Fueling:
TNT, Nitrous Express, and NOS wet shot, 50 horsepower. Purge in the cowl, MSD window switch, pressure safety switch. Bottle mounted in the spare tire compartment. Control switches mounted in the console.
Drivetrain:
RAM VDS clutch with 980 disc, Adjustable master cylinder
Hurst Pro Billet shifter
Denny’s Nitrous Ready driveshaft with 1350 u-joints
Moser 12 bolt with 4.11 gears, spool, 33 spline non-C-clip axles
Chassis:
SLP subframe connectors
BMR tubular K-member
Suspension:
QA1 12 way adjustable shocks all four corners
275# QA1 springs on the front, stock springs on the rear
Stock upper A-arms
BMR tubular lower A-arms
Stock front swaybar
BMR adjustable pan hard bar
Stock torque arm
Global West spherical bearing/rubber bushing lower control arms with relocation brackets welded on the axle.
BMR rear swaybar
Wheels/tires:
Street: Silver painted ZR1 replicas 11” rear with 315/34/17 Sumitomos 9” fronts with 275/40/17’s
Strip: Stock 16” wheels with 245/50/16” Daytona’s front and 255/50/16 Mickey Thompson ET street radials rear
I still have about a year and half till it is paid off and I am in the process of building a forged short block for it.
So I guess the answer is YES, lol
#37
12 Second Club
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i was hitting a 125 shot in the first year maybe 8k miles or so ...and it still goes in for warranty work (mainly window motors and reg)with the bottle mounted in the hatch....
eroc
eroc
#40
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I had full bollt-ons that wouldn't void warrenty. As soon as I rolled 36k... I had my procharger installed that sat in the spare bedroom wating on the day to come. I will get rid of my wife before I get rid of that car. She knows this too and dares not come between my car and I. Yes I am psychotic like that and only have 2 payments left. I bought it brand new in dec of 01', it's an 02. Figured there were more of us, im a little shocked.