My LS1 died (oops)
11-27-2006, 09:10 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by BLKWS.6
Whats wrong with the S2K? Also, how is it "girly"? Is the lotus Elise "girly" too? I mean, it has 50hp less and is even smaller and all that.
Either way I'm generally a domestic car type of guy. Well domestic + some euro models. I'd LOVE to own a CL65
And the new M6 looks cool too. 
11-27-2006, 09:13 PM
#42
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Originally Posted by BLKWS.6
Okay, do I need to index the MAF when putting it back or just put it back like I took it off or do I need to even remove it at all from the car?
11-27-2006, 09:15 PM
#43
Originally Posted by RPM WS6
Relax man, it's all about personal preferance. That's cool if you like the S2000. Just so happens that I don't, actually I don't like the Lotus either. Little 2-seater roadsters with small motors don't really appeal to me is all, regardless of power levels.
Either way I'm generally a domestic car type of guy. Well domestic + some euro models. I'd LOVE to own a CL65 And the new M6 looks cool too.
Either way I'm generally a domestic car type of guy. Well domestic + some euro models. I'd LOVE to own a CL65
And the new M6 looks cool too.I am relaxed. Personally, I am secure enough to drive anything (some things I would not LIKE, but...wouldnt challenge the manhood to be in it). I like the S2K because its a damn nice car and built very well, any way you want to look at it. I think its cool how they got a 4-banger NA to beat 99-04 mustang GT's stock/stock and be able to handle and maintain dd driveability. ANYWAYS....
I hate roadsters too, hence the hardtop being mandatory (Hate verts too, no problem with them, just not for me).
Yeah, I am hoping to get my WS.6 FINALLY ONCE AND FOR ALL! fixed. Cleaning the MAF, replacing the IAC(i am sure it is what gave me the 2500rpm idle b/c cleaning it fixed that drastic crap, but it still acts an *** at times with not compensating for the AC and the like, I think the worm gears in it have crap in them/are messed up, whatever)
I am almost bent on the idea its a fuel pump, and thats ok, its just going to be a bitch to get it replaced. what EXACTLY must be done to replace a fuel pump (i.e. how hard is it to drop the tank...what must be done/removed to get it?)
11-27-2006, 09:18 PM
#44
Originally Posted by RPM WS6
It goes back on just like it came off. Nothing special, just make sure the flow is correct (there's an arrow on the MAF to guide you, but just remember the honeycomb side faces away from the throttle body). And while you're at it, check the air bellow for any cracks/holes. That happens sometimes, and a leak right behind the MAF can cause some odd stuff to happen.
I ran the propane torch all around the bellow with no change in idle. I will visually verify this though. I just think its Air/Fuel/Compression/Spark that killed my car.
Air...I know im getting it, nothing clogged the intake
Compression...I know I have over 100PSI in all cylinders (necessary for an engine to run properly) and im sure its just fine as it cranked afterwards
Spark...most ignition systems are HEAVILY monitored and any mis-fire/ignition issue that would kill the car at 40mph WOULD SET AN SES (I think?)
Fuel...all 8 injectors didnt just suddenly take a shat on me and the fuel filter is brand new (2 weeks old, WIX, installed correctly, lol). This leaves....the fuel pump. Bastard
^Any thoughts?
11-27-2006, 09:19 PM
#46
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Originally Posted by BLKWS.6
I am relaxed. Personally, I am secure enough to drive anything (some things I would not LIKE, but...wouldnt challenge the manhood to be in it). I like the S2K because its a damn nice car and built very well, any way you want to look at it. I think its cool how they got a 4-banger NA to beat 99-04 mustang GT's stock/stock and be able to handle and maintain dd driveability. ANYWAYS....
I hate roadsters too, hence the hardtop being mandatory (Hate verts too, no problem with them, just not for me).
Yeah, I am hoping to get my WS.6 FINALLY ONCE AND FOR ALL! fixed. Cleaning the MAF, replacing the IAC(i am sure it is what gave me the 2500rpm idle b/c cleaning it fixed that drastic crap, but it still acts an *** at times with not compensating for the AC and the like, I think the worm gears in it have crap in them/are messed up, whatever)
I am almost bent on the idea its a fuel pump, and thats ok, its just going to be a bitch to get it replaced. what EXACTLY must be done to replace a fuel pump (i.e. how hard is it to drop the tank...what must be done/removed to get it?)
I hate roadsters too, hence the hardtop being mandatory (Hate verts too, no problem with them, just not for me).
Yeah, I am hoping to get my WS.6 FINALLY ONCE AND FOR ALL! fixed. Cleaning the MAF, replacing the IAC(i am sure it is what gave me the 2500rpm idle b/c cleaning it fixed that drastic crap, but it still acts an *** at times with not compensating for the AC and the like, I think the worm gears in it have crap in them/are messed up, whatever)
I am almost bent on the idea its a fuel pump, and thats ok, its just going to be a bitch to get it replaced. what EXACTLY must be done to replace a fuel pump (i.e. how hard is it to drop the tank...what must be done/removed to get it?)
A friend of mine had an S2K for awhile, I think it was an '02 model. It was ok, but it didn't really impress me as being anything special. I definitely wouldn't trade an LS1 F-body to get one.
PS. I wasn't actually challenging anyone's manhood, I was just giving you a hard time.
All in fun man, 
11-27-2006, 09:21 PM
#47
Originally Posted by RPM WS6
A friend of mine had an S2K for awhile, I think it was an '02 model. It was ok, but it didn't really impress me as being anything special. I definitely wouldn't trade an LS1 F-body to get one.
PS. I wasn't actually challenging anyone's manhood, I was just giving you a hard time. All in fun man,
PS. I wasn't actually challenging anyone's manhood, I was just giving you a hard time.
All in fun man, Not that you were, but some people are just so bent on the "mine is bigger than yours" attitude that they will create an entire persona/image for something as mundane as a car, lol. Anywho, who cares, I cant afford one and you dont want one. That settles it in my book.
11-27-2006, 09:28 PM
#49
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Originally Posted by BLKWS.6
Spark...most ignition systems are HEAVILY monitored and any mis-fire/ignition issue that would kill the car at 40mph WOULD SET AN SES (I think?)
Fuel...all 8 injectors didnt just suddenly take a shat on me and the fuel filter is brand new (2 weeks old, WIX, installed correctly, lol). This leaves....the fuel pump. Bastard
^Any thoughts?
As for the injectors, even if just 2 injectors fail on a V8 motor the car can die while in motion. I learned that about 10 years ago when I bought my first fuel injected performance car (TPI 350 Formula). It lost 2 injectors at 88,000 miles and the car just died cruising on the highway......
You could ohm test the injectors, they should be about 12.5 ohms.
11-27-2006, 09:32 PM
#50
Originally Posted by RPM WS6
When my L36 car was randomly stalling on the road at 40mph just like yours, it was the ignition module that was bad. It never tossed a DTC, ever. Of course the LS1 has different ignition management though, plus individual coil packs per cylinder vs the L36 3-pack over 6 cylinder shared setup.
As for the injectors, even if just 2 injectors fail on a V8 motor the car can die while in motion. I learned that about 10 years ago when I bought my first fuel injected performance car (TPI 350 Formula). It lost 2 injectors at 88,000 miles and the car just died cruising on the highway......
You could ohm test the injectors, they should be about 12.5 ohms.
As for the injectors, even if just 2 injectors fail on a V8 motor the car can die while in motion. I learned that about 10 years ago when I bought my first fuel injected performance car (TPI 350 Formula). It lost 2 injectors at 88,000 miles and the car just died cruising on the highway......
You could ohm test the injectors, they should be about 12.5 ohms.
I still would think that a fuel pump would be a better guess. Your car was OBD1 and mine is OBD2, there is a LOT! MORE! stuff that OBDII cars monitor. I think my long term fuel trims ect. will show it if its the fuel pump. If its something else, It should be indicated as well I would htink.
11-27-2006, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by BLKWS.6
I still would think that a fuel pump would be a better guess. Your car was OBD1 and mine is OBD2, there is a LOT! MORE! stuff that OBDII cars monitor. I think my long term fuel trims ect. will show it if its the fuel pump. If its something else, It should be indicated as well I would htink.
Best way to tell if the fuel pump is having issues will be the method mentioned above, get a pressure gage, connect it to the rail and extend it over the cowl, tape it to the windshield and see what happens to the fuel pressure under load. LTFTs are another option, but if they are excessively positive, that can also indicate a vacuum leak. There is no way to tell based on fuel trims alone if the pump is failing.
11-27-2006, 10:32 PM
#52
Originally Posted by JD_AMG
Its a front suspension piece. It controls the toe angle of the front tires, mine needed to be replaced, the inside of my front tires were almost completely bald. I didnt do it myself, took it to a shop.
EDIT: have you cleaned your MAF and throttle body?
EDIT: have you cleaned your MAF and throttle body?
11-28-2006, 12:39 AM
#53
Originally Posted by Roarin_8
I think he was referring to the wheel bearing which he'll have to remove the axel in order to get to them.
11-28-2006, 01:22 AM
#54
Based on what you describe (died suddenly, no codes, etc), you may well have a fuel pump issue. Labor guide is roughly 4.5-5 hours for that job IIRC for our cars. 3-500 for labor plus parts, depending on where you are.
DO check your battery and cables, just to be sure. These GM batteries were/are horrible for leaking and a bad connection/cable can pass enough current to crank but not start or to run accs. but not crank. Seen it many times.
Ignition system in LS cars is damn good, so are the sensors (as a rule). When it stalls, if it only cranks but won't start - try kicking the fuel tank. Simple test (maybe 75% accurate) for a simple but sometimes hard to duplicate issue.
My recommendation - if it's the fuel pump, get a dealer to install a GM unit (lifetime warranty parts and install) or go performance unit for more flow. Best warranty or best performance. I haven't had much luck trying to find a middle ground, personally. Dropping the tank and changing the pump in my driveway without a lift sounds about like torture to me.
Make sure to change the filter every 15k from now on.
Good luck.
DO check your battery and cables, just to be sure. These GM batteries were/are horrible for leaking and a bad connection/cable can pass enough current to crank but not start or to run accs. but not crank. Seen it many times.
Ignition system in LS cars is damn good, so are the sensors (as a rule). When it stalls, if it only cranks but won't start - try kicking the fuel tank. Simple test (maybe 75% accurate) for a simple but sometimes hard to duplicate issue.
My recommendation - if it's the fuel pump, get a dealer to install a GM unit (lifetime warranty parts and install) or go performance unit for more flow. Best warranty or best performance. I haven't had much luck trying to find a middle ground, personally. Dropping the tank and changing the pump in my driveway without a lift sounds about like torture to me.
Make sure to change the filter every 15k from now on.
Good luck.
11-28-2006, 02:55 AM
#56
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ive done that trick, bang in the center of the tank and the car started.
Originally Posted by jmilz28
Based on what you describe (died suddenly, no codes, etc), you may well have a fuel pump issue. Labor guide is roughly 4.5-5 hours for that job IIRC for our cars. 3-500 for labor plus parts, depending on where you are.
DO check your battery and cables, just to be sure. These GM batteries were/are horrible for leaking and a bad connection/cable can pass enough current to crank but not start or to run accs. but not crank. Seen it many times.
Ignition system in LS cars is damn good, so are the sensors (as a rule). When it stalls, if it only cranks but won't start - try kicking the fuel tank. Simple test (maybe 75% accurate) for a simple but sometimes hard to duplicate issue.
My recommendation - if it's the fuel pump, get a dealer to install a GM unit (lifetime warranty parts and install) or go performance unit for more flow. Best warranty or best performance. I haven't had much luck trying to find a middle ground, personally. Dropping the tank and changing the pump in my driveway without a lift sounds about like torture to me.
Make sure to change the filter every 15k from now on.
Good luck.
DO check your battery and cables, just to be sure. These GM batteries were/are horrible for leaking and a bad connection/cable can pass enough current to crank but not start or to run accs. but not crank. Seen it many times.
Ignition system in LS cars is damn good, so are the sensors (as a rule). When it stalls, if it only cranks but won't start - try kicking the fuel tank. Simple test (maybe 75% accurate) for a simple but sometimes hard to duplicate issue.
My recommendation - if it's the fuel pump, get a dealer to install a GM unit (lifetime warranty parts and install) or go performance unit for more flow. Best warranty or best performance. I haven't had much luck trying to find a middle ground, personally. Dropping the tank and changing the pump in my driveway without a lift sounds about like torture to me.
Make sure to change the filter every 15k from now on.
Good luck.
11-28-2006, 03:37 AM
#57
My car required no banging to start. Wierd. Just cranked when I tried.
I find out tomorrow they say, they kept it tonight. Like i was saying, the ign. system would have an assload of codes and if something was bad wrong it would run like ***. My radio ran fine during the whole ordeal and my battery is 110% corrosion free and the cables are rock solid, I checked.
I am sure the long-term fuel table codes will show something if its a fuel pump and the fuel pressure test might reveal it.
I find out tomorrow they say, they kept it tonight. Like i was saying, the ign. system would have an assload of codes and if something was bad wrong it would run like ***. My radio ran fine during the whole ordeal and my battery is 110% corrosion free and the cables are rock solid, I checked.
I am sure the long-term fuel table codes will show something if its a fuel pump and the fuel pressure test might reveal it.
11-28-2006, 05:33 AM
#58
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Originally Posted by BLKWS.6
I am sure the long-term fuel table codes will show something if its a fuel pump and the fuel pressure test might reveal it.
11-28-2006, 07:56 AM
#59
Hopefully you get it figured out! Replacing the fuel pump sucks, you have to drop the rear and the exhaust to drop the tank. However, it can take you a 1/3 the time if you cut an access panel above the tank, underneath the carpet/insulation in the rear. Although I doubt you would want to do that to your brand new car!