Synthetic 20W-50
#1
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: SW Houston
Posts: 4,192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Synthetic 20W-50
I understand there are threads about this coming outta the Wahzoooo, but Im not grasping the concept very well. Picking out oil is sometimes a hard descion for me (like going shopping, i dont just pick out ANY shirt, etc.)
I got a cammed LS1 with 136K on it and I change the oil very frequently(Doesnt even have time to turn dark brown).
Im wanting to run a lil thicker oil to make just a tad more pressure.
Would run 20w-50 FULL SYNTHETIC be the same as running 10W-40 Dino oil??
The oil i have been running is castrol syntec either 10W-30 or recently 10W-40.
Any input is apprecited!
Thanks
I got a cammed LS1 with 136K on it and I change the oil very frequently(Doesnt even have time to turn dark brown).
Im wanting to run a lil thicker oil to make just a tad more pressure.
Would run 20w-50 FULL SYNTHETIC be the same as running 10W-40 Dino oil??
The oil i have been running is castrol syntec either 10W-30 or recently 10W-40.
Any input is apprecited!
Thanks
#5
12 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by greysteel_M6
I think sythetics also resists change in viscosity when heated. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Trending Topics
#8
12 Second Club
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Bucks County, Pa.
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Shinerbock07
so the ls1s dont like thick oil though, correct?
But generally, LSx's do "like" slightly thicker (higher Csts @ 100*) when fully warmed up. This means the slightly thicker synthetic oils within the given viscosity ranges (5W-30, 10W-30, 5W-40, maybe 10W-40) our cars/engines require. You have to get the spec sheets on what you want to use and LOOK at them! (For where you live, the Cst @ 100* is the most important; over 15.0 is TOO THICK, under 11.5 is probably too thin.) The ONLY time I would use something as viscous as a 15W-40/50 or 20W-50, would be if I were road racing/open tracking/endurance racing for an extended period of time, in the heat, OR if my engine builder told me to use something that thick because of the way he set up the clearances in the bearings, etc. Either way, you will lose some power as you go up in actual viscosity. The trick is to balance that loss with engine protection for it's given use.
#10
12 Second Club
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Bucks County, Pa.
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Shinerbock07
where do i get syntheic 10W-50?
Generally, the closer (5W-30, 10W-30) the spread, the better (with a few exceptions).
#11
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: SW Houston
Posts: 4,192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well what oil would you suggest I use?
getting ready to break 137K it has a cam(232/234) with 243 heads, and does not burn any oil
my oil pressure sits around 35-40psi. and fluctuates(maybe lope of the cam)
If I go WOT a couple of times in one day my oil pressure will be a lil lower than usual.
When I open the hood and manual open the TB to 50%-80% throttle white smoke comes out (Blow by).
what do you suggest? IM running currently a 10W-40 CAstrol Syntec(hard to find)
getting ready to break 137K it has a cam(232/234) with 243 heads, and does not burn any oil
my oil pressure sits around 35-40psi. and fluctuates(maybe lope of the cam)
If I go WOT a couple of times in one day my oil pressure will be a lil lower than usual.
When I open the hood and manual open the TB to 50%-80% throttle white smoke comes out (Blow by).
what do you suggest? IM running currently a 10W-40 CAstrol Syntec(hard to find)
#12
Originally Posted by dailydriver
I would stay away from oils with a W-I-D-E viscosity spread like this, as it means they had to use much more viscosity index improvers than an oil with a narrower spread (even when they use the best ester base stocks!). Usually, the more V.I. improvers added to the oil, the less shear stable (lower HTHS) it is, and the quicker it will "break down" (and possibly thicken up till it's way out of spec).
Generally, the closer (5W-30, 10W-30) the spread, the better (with a few exceptions).
Generally, the closer (5W-30, 10W-30) the spread, the better (with a few exceptions).
#13
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: SW Houston
Posts: 4,192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thats why i said 20W 50 Synthetic.
Ive been using 10W-30 and recently 10W-40.
I cant make up my mind. Something tells me i want to run 20 W 50 syntec for my older motor for extra protection, but i thought id ask here first!
Ive been using 10W-30 and recently 10W-40.
I cant make up my mind. Something tells me i want to run 20 W 50 syntec for my older motor for extra protection, but i thought id ask here first!
#14
12 Second Club
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Bucks County, Pa.
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Shinerbock07
If I go WOT a couple of times in one day my oil pressure will be a lil lower than usual.
When I open the hood and manual open the TB to 50%-80% throttle white smoke comes out (Blow by).
what do you suggest? IM running currently a 10W-40 CAstrol Syntec(hard to find)
When I open the hood and manual open the TB to 50%-80% throttle white smoke comes out (Blow by).
what do you suggest? IM running currently a 10W-40 CAstrol Syntec(hard to find)
#15
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: SW Houston
Posts: 4,192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the heads are practically new I got them off an 06 GTO that went ported.(I know 06 goats are 6.0L w/ 4.000 bores but you are still able to use these heads without probs)
So valves seals going bad are outta the question. Rings...well I dont really consume oil...ever. Its always at the same mark as a filled it at .
I think I get blowby (white smoke outta the breather oil cap) becuase of my motor being more "radical" and having the 65cc chambers my 243 heads have is giving more compression. more compression=more pressure inside
So valves seals going bad are outta the question. Rings...well I dont really consume oil...ever. Its always at the same mark as a filled it at .
I think I get blowby (white smoke outta the breather oil cap) becuase of my motor being more "radical" and having the 65cc chambers my 243 heads have is giving more compression. more compression=more pressure inside
#16
12 Second Club
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Bucks County, Pa.
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by TransAminal
This is true...but with synthetics, it is possible to achieve a much greater viscosity range without sacrificing the performance of the oil. With conventional oil, achieving a range of something like 5W-40 would be near impossible.
#19
12 Second Club
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Bucks County, Pa.
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Shinerbock07
the heads are practically new I got them off an 06 GTO that went ported.(I know 06 goats are 6.0L w/ 4.000 bores but you are still able to use these heads without probs)
So valves seals going bad are outta the question. Rings...well I dont really consume oil...ever. Its always at the same mark as a filled it at .
I think I get blowby (white smoke outta the breather oil cap) becuase of my motor being more "radical" and having the 65cc chambers my 243 heads have is giving more compression. more compression=more pressure inside
So valves seals going bad are outta the question. Rings...well I dont really consume oil...ever. Its always at the same mark as a filled it at .
I think I get blowby (white smoke outta the breather oil cap) becuase of my motor being more "radical" and having the 65cc chambers my 243 heads have is giving more compression. more compression=more pressure inside