My point exactly.

 

...ok first off prove that ****...and 2nd i dont know too many guys who dont go and rebuild the motor before 150,000k anyway...so that is irrelavent....**** paper, K&N, hell it DONT ****** MATTER!!!! ...u guys drive me crazy talkin about the same **** over and over again...its JUST personal pref...leave it alone

 

You change yours every 20k miles? Jeez. I change mine ever 10k and its really dirty everytime I change it. I will be going with K & N just for the fact that you dont have to ever replace it. And it will come with the new intake.

And heres a little info about the paper filters. There ALL the same. I used to work in an assembly line place that made air filters. We sold them to every one from Wal Mart to Sears to Fram. All we did was change the color of the rubber stuff that goes around it. Everything else is exactly the same. Thats why when I buy a paper air filter I just get the cheapest one I can find.

 

Yeah except that k&N filters clog really quickly and soon have far less flow rate than a paper one, so they need cleaning in the region of twice as often as a paper one needs replacing. The cost of the cleaning and ooiling products for a filter which filters worse and cost double to by initially simply isn't worth it.

If you don't want paper there are plenty of good alternatives but k&n and all other cotten weave filters are generally crap and expensive.

 

Let's see I paid 50 for my K&N filter. 9.99 for the cleaning kit. I have cleaned my filter only one time(But it doesnt help that I am out of country for 6 months at a time). regaurdless, my car still get's driven, and I clean it when I come.

But then again while I have to hose out and washing my car, it does take but a few minutes to spray the cleaner on, let sit, rinse it off, oil it when it's dry, and then put it back in when I am done waxing the car anyway...

I figure with re-using and the same filter, saves me some money. Plus when you clean the filter you dont use alot of the product that you buy.

So when I am cleaning my filter for the 7th or 8th time and still using the same cleaning kit and filter, I see alot less money out of my poscket.

Flow between cotton and paper may not have much difference, but I am saving some moeny down the road. When I feel it's time to actually replace the filter due to age then that's what I will do.

 

But how much money??

I can buy a paper air filter for like £10 here in the UK, a K&N would be £50-60 plus a cleaning kit at £10-15.

The paper filter only needs changing once a year usually or twice if I am being fussy. Paper filters can become quite dirty yet still flow at well over 80% efficency.

 

This topic is like beating a dead horse...

 

another rant?

jeez... no point arguing this one.

 

but dude the little ping pong ball goes higher at the parts store every time!!1111

 

One of these shop owners on here that has a dyno should run say two runs with a paper let it cool down so its the same conditions then run two with the k&n.. Id really like to see what hp gains they make if any...

 

maybe at the top of that tube we should stick like an oxy pad and then filter dirt into the system at a constant for say a minute and see which is dirtier ha?

ive played with that too and also wondered what that filter is even used for..

 

Well i know that after 3k of driving and the way i have my lower air box opened up my filter is dirty as ****. So a paper air filter after 3k would suck. and how does k and n not filter? i see the dirt being trapped in my filter and nothing on my mas air flow screen. It wont effect engine life thats just stupid.

 

 

Ummm...no filter will let crap big enough to get stuck on your MAF screen through...

 

ok a little research I think

It's to do with the particles that get thru the filter, and if they get thrut the filter the MAF screen won't stop them.

Small particles could be salt, sand, dirt, dust and so on. Cotten Weave filters (and specifically the k&n) have repeatedly shown to filter less (allow more dirt thru) on bench tests.

Can it damage the engine??

Well yes, but for a normal road car it is unlikely. But off roaders, heavy plant machinary or people who live in higher risk area's it could be worth considering.

OEM paper filters have on the other hand been bench tested to show they can supply sufficent airflow for 500bhp n/a.

As for HP gain, well as someone stated earlier, paper filter to no filter was worth 4rwhp. So a k&n doesn't flow as well as no filter so logically speaking it would be safe to assume that the filter in this instance would be worth 1-2rwhp at most, but possibly a lot less.

 

I didn't read this thread, but I just wanted to point out that I'm a paper filter guy too. I think K&N is overpriced and stupid because I'd rather just throw mine away then have to clean it. I mean, does it really get clean? Air flows through it just as well after cleaning as when brand new? i doubt it but don't care.

People who add "K&N filter" to their list of mods, either verbally in person or over the Internet, are funny in the head.

 

Only reason I have a K&N on my car is because it never gets thrown away to end up in a landfill.........and because that offsets the fact that I don't run cats on any of my vehicles, I feel better about doing my part to "help" the environment.

 

Am I the only one who had trouble getting the paper ones to fit without getting them all ruffled up? I found a freshly oiled K&N for ~$20 used, so I bought it. The paper ones I got from Advance Auto fit so shity that I was worried that large amounts of air were getting through completely unfiltered.

 

Hey how about if you dont like k&n dont buy one. If you think its worth it like myself buy one. I dont consider an air filter a mod. Quakerstate lets all your horses run free does it really give you hp? Seriously I think not sometimes companys use hp in their marketing to sell a product.

 

Im running a fram paper filter, do those have good reputation?