View Poll Results: What would you do?
Voters: 48. You may not vote on this poll
What would you do? Heads/Cam or procharger?
#21
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Blower first. Because then you have a un-opened motor. Things last longer when you dont beak the factory seal on them. Also, less to screw up. Just a good tune and the blower can be an everyday car.
#22
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well i went with the procharger as my first big mod. I alredy bought it just waiting for it to get here. im still going wait 4 fuil pump, injectors, TC, and cam b4 i install. then a good tune
#24
If you only want 400 hp you should be able to get that with cam only (bolt ons too), many people have done so. You can get 400-475 reasonably easy with h/c, and would not waste the cash on the s/c. Now if you are looking for 500+ then you would be better going with s/c.
#25
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Get the cam now, you can make 400+ rwhp with that. Save up for heads after that and forget the FI imo... You got the wrong car and engine to be dreaming about a supercharger, shoulda got an import or mustang w/ forged internals if you want FI...
#26
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Originally Posted by Smokin00WS6
Man I would say do a H/C combo. I think that you are going to see amazing gains with that kinda combo. Do some good tuning and your looking about the same power as the first stage Pro Charger. Plus you are still NA with alot of room to go. I would say procharge it in a few years or something, but go heads and cam. Didnt see your list of mods, but if you throw on a new FAST intake and TB along with some headers, you are going to have a stong car.
what he said
#27
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Originally Posted by LivingCanvas
Blower first. Because then you have a un-opened motor. Things last longer when you dont beak the factory seal on them. Also, less to screw up. Just a good tune and the blower can be an everyday car.
I would go the procharger route if I were you. Just like this guy said, I think its a little more reliable, plus there is more potential if you want to build the bottom end.
#28
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If I had to do it over again I would go with a smaller cam that is boost friendly- ls6 or a lingenfelter GT2-3. It will give you more power than you have now and will work great with a procharger.
Everyone is all about big cams on this site and people are making great power under the curve with small cams.
Good luck.
Everyone is all about big cams on this site and people are making great power under the curve with small cams.
Good luck.
#30
LOL@Procharger.
I have a friend who is running a forged 347, stage3 6.0L heads, cam, 9", built t-56 who only puts down 525whp on 8psi. He also has the front mount intercooler kit too... It's not too too fast. I would pass from his experience.
I have a friend who is running a forged 347, stage3 6.0L heads, cam, 9", built t-56 who only puts down 525whp on 8psi. He also has the front mount intercooler kit too... It's not too too fast. I would pass from his experience.
#32
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Originally Posted by black01_WS6
well if it is a forged motor then he should throw 12+ #'s of boost and you may rethink your statement.
#33
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I have seen both sides of the fence on this subject and I personally like the H/C car better than I liked my Procharged car. Nothing gets more attention than the crackle of a good sized cam. My procharged SS made 570/477 Rwhp/Tq with the stock spec motor, a small blower grind and 10# boost. My Mecham T/A makes 550/504 Rwhp/Tq NA so there close as far as peak numbers go.
The Procharged car was a pain in the summer due to the intercoolers not transfering heat very well. I lost allmost 60 Hp in the 100 degree heat and the car was a turd. A head/cam car will not be affected near the extent an FI car will. If you do go Procharged get the D1 charger, its only approx. $200 more if I remember right and will work with your stock motor.
If you like turning heads and do a lot of street driving then go H/C. If you want a sleeper with near stock drivability and near stock idle then get the Procharger.
The Procharged car was a pain in the summer due to the intercoolers not transfering heat very well. I lost allmost 60 Hp in the 100 degree heat and the car was a turd. A head/cam car will not be affected near the extent an FI car will. If you do go Procharged get the D1 charger, its only approx. $200 more if I remember right and will work with your stock motor.
If you like turning heads and do a lot of street driving then go H/C. If you want a sleeper with near stock drivability and near stock idle then get the Procharger.
#35
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Originally Posted by HaulinHawk
Just curious what each one ran at the track?
The ss was never on slicks, I ran it once on the everyday 295/35/18 Kumho Mx tires and went an 11.35@130 and a 1.9X 60'. The Mecham will go to the track as soon as I relocate the torque arm off the tail shaft and we get some cooler weather. I hope to see some mid tens or better if I can get the power to the ground and have no problems.
#37
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Isn't the real question hear turbo or heads and cam? im just kidding, but im debating a turbo kit or heads and cam. turbo kit will cost you about the same as a procharger, i think ive considered to go heads/cam. First off you can use a smaller cam only without heada and get right at 400rwhp. a bigger cam with heads you can be lower 400's, and heads and cam you should be able to hit mid to upper 400's without to much problem. Add nitrous and you have a easy 10 second to 9 second car, depending on setup/weight reduction/driver and other's. Hell there are stock internal cam only cars in the 10's. Also look at the tsp heads. You can get timing chain, oil pump, dual valve springs, 5.3 heads, or ls6 heads, fully assembeled with your choice of cam for just over 2k. Even if you have someone install with a tune, i have been quoted 1k-1500, you are right around 3000-3500 installed and tuned. You had a mid to upper 400 hp car, new heads,(new parts ie oil pump, valve springs, push rods ect, which is gonna be addred reliability.)
Id also like to say from my experiance, not saying this is 100% true, but usually na power is greater then boosted power at same levels. If you find a head cam car making the exact same power as a blown or turbo car the na car is usually fast. Look through the time slips, na cars running upper 400's to 500's are running as fast as 700hp turbo or blown cars. On the top end the higher hp car will be faster but 1/4 they will be close. This is not always true, due to driver, car conditions.
Also as stated na cars are less sensitive to weather. On a cold night power adder car will run alot better then on a hot day.
Another example from civic's friends have had, a low 200 hp built motor that revs to 9k has been just as fast as similiar car with turbo on motor instead of built making mid 300hp and there both about the same et's.
If money were not an option, which it sounds it is for you and myself, i would go turbo or supercharger, but ls1's respond so well to cams and heads, and to me it just makes sense to go with the heads and cam. To each there own, and good luck.
Chris
Id also like to say from my experiance, not saying this is 100% true, but usually na power is greater then boosted power at same levels. If you find a head cam car making the exact same power as a blown or turbo car the na car is usually fast. Look through the time slips, na cars running upper 400's to 500's are running as fast as 700hp turbo or blown cars. On the top end the higher hp car will be faster but 1/4 they will be close. This is not always true, due to driver, car conditions.
Also as stated na cars are less sensitive to weather. On a cold night power adder car will run alot better then on a hot day.
Another example from civic's friends have had, a low 200 hp built motor that revs to 9k has been just as fast as similiar car with turbo on motor instead of built making mid 300hp and there both about the same et's.
If money were not an option, which it sounds it is for you and myself, i would go turbo or supercharger, but ls1's respond so well to cams and heads, and to me it just makes sense to go with the heads and cam. To each there own, and good luck.
Chris
#38
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I've been through this a few times in my head and I choose to go H/C.
I was going to get a Vtech charger which made close to 450rwhp for $4100.
But I went with AFR's and a mild cam and90/90 setup and made 461rwhp. Add 100 shot and it did 572rwhp. Now the n20 is only for the track. The car has plenty of power na for the street.
I spent a little bit more considering the n20 and all the other mods, but it was well worth it over the blower. But with a different cam and heads, the blower would be even more powerful.
But nothing beats the nasty lope my car has at idle.
I was going to get a Vtech charger which made close to 450rwhp for $4100.
But I went with AFR's and a mild cam and90/90 setup and made 461rwhp. Add 100 shot and it did 572rwhp. Now the n20 is only for the track. The car has plenty of power na for the street.
I spent a little bit more considering the n20 and all the other mods, but it was well worth it over the blower. But with a different cam and heads, the blower would be even more powerful.
But nothing beats the nasty lope my car has at idle.
#39
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Originally Posted by Sideways240sx
Id also like to say from my experiance, not saying this is 100% true, but usually na power is greater then boosted power at same levels. If you find a head cam car making the exact same power as a blown or turbo car the na car is usually fast. Look through the time slips, na cars running upper 400's to 500's are running as fast as 700hp turbo or blown cars. On the top end the higher hp car will be faster but 1/4 they will be close. This is not always true, due to driver, car conditions.
Also as stated na cars are less sensitive to weather. On a cold night power adder car will run alot better then on a hot day.
Also as stated na cars are less sensitive to weather. On a cold night power adder car will run alot better then on a hot day.
#40
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Well I just dont know. I would love the sound of a head/cam car but I already had trouble passing with LT's catted y and lm2. Procharger just bolt it on and wont be any louder than it is. But id imagine a head cam car would be meaner through the rpms unless im pushin 7000 rpms and makin 180mph runs. but that aint happenin.