question about stalling+gearing an auto ls1
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question about stalling+gearing an auto ls1
best bang for the buck for an auto ls1 is undoubtedly a nice stall, but why wuldnt a set of 3.73s give as much of an improvement coupled with a stall?
i ask because ive always heard that gearing a stalled auto isnt as effective as most people like to think. i just wanted someone to explain how/why this is so.
i ask because ive always heard that gearing a stalled auto isnt as effective as most people like to think. i just wanted someone to explain how/why this is so.
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The difference is that when you lock up the converter you are
no different than stock, for cruising RPM. But gears you have to
live with on the highway. 2500RPM at 80MPH, with 3.42s is still
OK. Would I want to listen to the exhaust at 2700 (3.73) or
3000RPM (4.11)? Less so, and hell no.
Gears up the axle torque across the band. Converter has a
fading profile that, if properly selected, complements your motor
torque slope for the driving you do. Wide range or WOT-only,
you pick it, you live with it.
Gears get weaker as you go up in ratio and they put more stress
to the axles as well.
no different than stock, for cruising RPM. But gears you have to
live with on the highway. 2500RPM at 80MPH, with 3.42s is still
OK. Would I want to listen to the exhaust at 2700 (3.73) or
3000RPM (4.11)? Less so, and hell no.
Gears up the axle torque across the band. Converter has a
fading profile that, if properly selected, complements your motor
torque slope for the driving you do. Wide range or WOT-only,
you pick it, you live with it.
Gears get weaker as you go up in ratio and they put more stress
to the axles as well.