Should I buy a repaired WS6 hit in the rear?
09-26-2007, 03:25 PM
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Should I buy a repaired WS6 hit in the rear? I have a chance to buy a SOM, 2002 WS6 with low miles at a great price. The only problem is that is was hit in the rear (now repaired). I have always heard that you should never buy a T/A that has been hit in the rear due to the weak 10 bolt. What do you guys think.
09-26-2007, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Rdy2Roll
asking around 12500, salvaged title
how many miles are on it? with a salvage title for 12,500 it should have 30,000 or lower or its not worth it
09-26-2007, 05:38 PM
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With a salvage it should sell for like 8 or less.. i mean i paid 12 for my 02 35th z28 with only 44 on the odo. From the Origional Ownere with all the options and window sticker ect. dont waste your time or money.. there is a reason its been totalled before.
09-26-2007, 05:40 PM
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my car is clean as hell took me about 2 allmost 3 months of searching fto find it but i found her and man am i happy. i get comments all the time. my car has never been hit once
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09-26-2007, 06:22 PM
#9
Just be careful if its outta state. and I would say its a bit high for being rebuilt. by the time you put 70k or 100k on you will lose sooo much of the resale value its unbelievable.
09-26-2007, 07:05 PM
#11
OK correct me if im wrong but how would an accident effect the 10 bolt? The power breakes it b/c its weak but I dont see how an accident would cause it to mess up unless it was so bad that it actually broke it physically
09-26-2007, 07:12 PM
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^^^ Agreed. But as stated before, 1/2 value for a branded title. So, if the book is like 15, you should offer 7.5, and that would generally be considered a serious offer. Salvage title kills value, just a fact o' life.
09-26-2007, 07:27 PM
#13
yea I agree 12.5 is WAYYYYYYYYY too much for the car but Im just sayin he was asking if the rear would be screwed up from an accident and if the price was right I would go for it as long as everything seemed to check out
09-26-2007, 07:52 PM
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I NOW have a Salvage Title on mine after get'n smacked in the rear. Rebuilt the car for 7K and now she runs better than she did before the accident. But thats only because I also had to repair the whole back end suspention and rear end. Its all new.
.. I'd ask the person WHY? he/she is selling if I where you. When she was in the shop,.. I almost considered making sure that the body looked straight and get'n used parts that are cheeper and would hold for awhile until I could unload her onto someone else. BUT,.. I'm not that fucked up so I held onto her and fixed everything.
Make sure you look at everything under the back end if you decide to go for it.
1.) Check the age of the springs and shocks,.. visually you could tell to an extent. Trust me. Low miles with a suspention that looks 50k plus miles old = a BAD SIGN!!
2.) Look at the LCA's and the welds on the hangers that connect the LCA's to the rear end. Check for FRESH welds,... another BAD SIGN!
3.) Check the inner wheel well lining,... (looks like Rhino Lining)... If it looks frech,.. another BAD SIGN!
4.) Check the GAP between the door and the 1/4-panel.
....F.Y.I ....ALL those are signs that the body as a whole could be warped!
! And yes,... The value of the car is literally cut in half on mine now!!
Good Luck!!
'Milky'
.. I'd ask the person WHY? he/she is selling if I where you. When she was in the shop,.. I almost considered making sure that the body looked straight and get'n used parts that are cheeper and would hold for awhile until I could unload her onto someone else. BUT,.. I'm not that fucked up so I held onto her and fixed everything.
Make sure you look at everything under the back end if you decide to go for it.
1.) Check the age of the springs and shocks,.. visually you could tell to an extent. Trust me. Low miles with a suspention that looks 50k plus miles old = a BAD SIGN!!
2.) Look at the LCA's and the welds on the hangers that connect the LCA's to the rear end. Check for FRESH welds,... another BAD SIGN!
3.) Check the inner wheel well lining,... (looks like Rhino Lining)... If it looks frech,.. another BAD SIGN!
4.) Check the GAP between the door and the 1/4-panel.
....F.Y.I ....ALL those are signs that the body as a whole could be warped!
! And yes,... The value of the car is literally cut in half on mine now!!
Good Luck!!
'Milky'
09-26-2007, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Starz T/A 17
OK correct me if im wrong but how would an accident effect the 10 bolt? The power breakes it b/c its weak but I dont see how an accident would cause it to mess up unless it was so bad that it actually broke it physically
Usually 1/4 angle hits to the back end of the car **** em up. Thats what happened to me!
09-26-2007, 08:05 PM
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Oh,... one last thing! SS and WS.6 don't mean jack anymore with a Salvage. Its looked at as no different than Z28 or a reg Trans Am. ....I.E. ....'V8'!! You wouldn't get the resale value you usually would on an SS or WS.6 with a Salvage Title attached to it. And thats on-top of the value being sliced in half.
09-26-2007, 08:49 PM
#18
check the rear frame rails and do a meausurement from the rf tire to thr rr tire and the lf tire to the lr tire and make sure they are the same. Dont be affraid to get dirty. And remember if the car has that low of miles and it was salvaged the accident must have been pretty bad.
09-26-2007, 09:08 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by Rdy2Roll
I have a chance to buy a SOM, 2002 WS6 with low miles at a great price. The only problem is that is was hit in the rear (now repaired). I have always heard that you should never buy a T/A that has been hit in the rear due to the weak 10 bolt. What do you guys think.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=salvage
09-27-2007, 03:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 180ls1
... And remember if the car has that low of miles and it was salvaged the accident must have been pretty bad.
Look,.... think of it this way,.. a car depreciates with every mile you add,... literally! Lets say that its got 30K on it,(hypothetically)... still worth a pretty penny! K... Now in order for a car to gain a Salvage Title the cost to repair it must be more than 75% of the car's current worth. So lets say it's worth 20K,.. Its now got a Salvage Title so that means that the repairs cost MORE than 15K....Not a good sign.
Cars with higher milage and have a salvage title are more understandable. Lower milage cars with one can be a risk unless you know what to look for. ...
...Just something to think about.