Sharpe

iTrader: (7)

Call a shop. Ask 'em what they charge to do it. It's a common procedure. A lot of places rent gages.

From Google:

A compression test will tell you if your engine has good compression. An engine is essentially a self-powered air pump, so it needs good compression to run efficiently, cleanly and to start easily.

As a rule, most engines should have 140 to 160 lbs. of cranking compression with no more than 10% difference between any of the cylinders.

Low compression in one cylinder usually indicates a bad exhaust valve. Low compression in two adjacent cylinders typically means you have a bad head gasket. Low compression in all cylinders would tell you the rings and cylinders are worn and the engine needs to be overhauled.

To check compression, all the spark plugs are removed. The ignition coil is then disabled or the high tension lead is grounded. The throttle is also held open. The engine is then cranked for a few seconds using a remote starter switch or a helper while a compression gauge is held in a spark plug hole. The maximum compression reading is noted, then the process is repeated for each of the remaining cylinders. The individual cylinder readings are then compared to see if the results are within specs.

1_bad_TA

iTrader: (6)

I would run a Lid/air filter/smooth bellow(example:SLP lid and bellow,KN filter), Long tube headers with a catted y pipe(example:pace setter)and a nice catback exhaust(example:flowmaster), a small cam(example:texas speed,speed inc.,etc) with a tune would make you car come alive and it wouldn't cost you alot.

angel71rs

Consider having a recommended professional in your area do the parts install for you. Just buy the parts (choose conservatively for best reliability on a daily driver) schedule a time with the shop you select to do the work, drop it all off. Lots of good used parts for sale on the boards for a significant savings over new, especially the smaller cams that are perfect for a DD. You can do the proven low cost (e.g. lid) and free mods (e.g. throttle stop mod) on your own.

Anything that isn't a straight forward swap can end up being a garage queen-type experience as all the details/bugs get worked out if you try to do it yourself. I've seen it happen a bunch of times. So for the same (or less) $$$ that you'd pay for a stock used LS2 and a pro swap, you can have your LS1 buildup and end up with more HP. Lots of guys have modded LS1s with over 100k/miles on them with great results.

CRAGER

Its been done plenty of times. Knock sensors are on the bottom, and extend the wires also for the cam sensor up front. Thats all, NO BIG DEAL, and don't go crying you can do this and that to an LS1 to make it faster. YOU CAN'T BEAT MORE CUBES PERIOD!

Peace,
Craig.

LS1W66

I agree
A cam only LS2 can be a real Beast.

DKITCHEN

iTrader: (10)

80K on your LS1 is not aging! I just turned over 180K on my daily driver and put an LS6 intake on it this past weekend. The car still runs great, probably has over 100 passes at the track in the last two years and gets close to 30 mpg on the highway. If your car is stock, you'll be happy for awhile with the power that you gain from all the standard bolt on's (headers, exhaust, throttle body, LS6 intake, gears etc.) Read all the posts about high mileage LS1's, they're very reliable for a long time with proper maintenance.

SizzlR239

o hell yeah dude look at ls2bait that camaro is so bad ***