hole in block f*&k!!!
11-27-2007, 08:25 PM
#21
I can say from experince and once was not enough that the only difference between me spinning two rod bearings on a stock bottom and you throwing the bitchs thru the block is the giggle gas. I burnt the last stock LS6 SBs rod bearings so bad that they turned the rod caps black. And the 98s originals lasted until I started modding the engine. Kinda Gods way of telling you that you better by a forged block next time.
11-27-2007, 08:28 PM
#22
an engine, just like any other thing that man has created, is not a perfect thing. every engine is going to be different, even ones that have been cast from the same exact mold.
things like "rated horsepower" or "tensile strength" are just averages. if series of engines are rated at 350HP, that doesn't mean that every single engine in that series is going to make exactly 350HP. some will make more & some will make less. the same goes for the strength of engine components.
if a particular connecting rod is rated to handle up to 450HP, some will still stay together at 550HP, while some will fail at only 400HP.
each time you push a component hard, even if it doesn't fail immediately, it can still weaken. beat on it enough times and weaken it enough times, and over time it is going to fail....it's not a matter of "if", it's a matter of "when".
so even though you have been spraying a 150 shot on your engine with no problems, doesn't mean problems won't happen. your engine may hold up to another 50 hits of that 150 shot, or it may blow up the very next time you spray it.
on stock internals, it's all a crap-shoot. your friend found that out the hard way.....and given enough times, your engine will likely do the same thing if it's not beefed up.
things like "rated horsepower" or "tensile strength" are just averages. if series of engines are rated at 350HP, that doesn't mean that every single engine in that series is going to make exactly 350HP. some will make more & some will make less. the same goes for the strength of engine components.
if a particular connecting rod is rated to handle up to 450HP, some will still stay together at 550HP, while some will fail at only 400HP.
each time you push a component hard, even if it doesn't fail immediately, it can still weaken. beat on it enough times and weaken it enough times, and over time it is going to fail....it's not a matter of "if", it's a matter of "when".
so even though you have been spraying a 150 shot on your engine with no problems, doesn't mean problems won't happen. your engine may hold up to another 50 hits of that 150 shot, or it may blow up the very next time you spray it.
on stock internals, it's all a crap-shoot. your friend found that out the hard way.....and given enough times, your engine will likely do the same thing if it's not beefed up.
11-27-2007, 08:30 PM
#23
I dont give a damn what anyone says, nitrous is bad news. even if you got the proper fuel spark whatever, it cans till eat pistons, rings and shocks the entire car, bad news in general.
But anyhow, you threw a rod, good job. Id look into a forged bottom end if you plan on hitting the laughing gas a lot again in the future
But anyhow, you threw a rod, good job. Id look into a forged bottom end if you plan on hitting the laughing gas a lot again in the future
11-27-2007, 08:39 PM
#25
I dont give a damn what anyone says, nitrous is bad news. even if you got the proper fuel spark whatever, it cans till eat pistons, rings and shocks the entire car, bad news in general.
But anyhow, you threw a rod, good job. Id look into a forged bottom end if you plan on hitting the laughing gas a lot again in the future
But anyhow, you threw a rod, good job. Id look into a forged bottom end if you plan on hitting the laughing gas a lot again in the future
11-27-2007, 09:51 PM
#29
but seriously....i won't ever run nitrous on my car, good tune or not, until i have other means of transportation in case something does go boom. as a daily driver, i can't afford to lose my transportation.
11-27-2007, 11:05 PM
#30
Pretty high risk of blowing something up if its a stock motor and you are new to nitrous.
Pretty low risk if you know what you are doing, have forged internals, lowered compression, etc.
I hate people who say nitrous is cheap power. Yeah, its cheap until you throw a rod through the block.
11-28-2007, 01:04 AM
#31
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Nitrous, set up properly, is just as safe as any other modification. FI also is a motor killer, but if you have a built motor, with fuel, and tune nothing will break. It's all in your setup. Generalizing that all n2o setups are bad is just stupid.
11-28-2007, 01:25 AM
#33
You also run the same risk every time you turn your car on. Does that mean you should stop doing it?
Nitrous, set up properly, is just as safe as any other modification. FI also is a motor killer, but if you have a built motor, with fuel, and tune nothing will break. It's all in your setup. Generalizing that all n2o setups are bad is just stupid.
Nitrous, set up properly, is just as safe as any other modification. FI also is a motor killer, but if you have a built motor, with fuel, and tune nothing will break. It's all in your setup. Generalizing that all n2o setups are bad is just stupid.
Besides, there was no real reason to even get the bottle for the Mustang. I undo a spark plug wire when I race Mustangs
(just kidding).If I were you I would jet down to 100 and spray away.
11-28-2007, 01:46 AM
#34
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You also run the same risk every time you turn your car on. Does that mean you should stop doing it?
Nitrous, set up properly, is just as safe as any other modification. FI also is a motor killer, but if you have a built motor, with fuel, and tune nothing will break. It's all in your setup. Generalizing that all n2o setups are bad is just stupid.
Nitrous, set up properly, is just as safe as any other modification. FI also is a motor killer, but if you have a built motor, with fuel, and tune nothing will break. It's all in your setup. Generalizing that all n2o setups are bad is just stupid.
11-28-2007, 02:07 AM
#35
When I say stock motor, I mean the one assembled by GM and put into your car when it was built. They'll take a shot of nitrous for a while, but spraying a stock motor is just asking for trouble IMO. A heads/cam package is more expensive initally, but you get more power, all the time, and you can use your stock bottom end without fear of blowing it apart.
11-28-2007, 07:41 AM
#36
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Ah na just keep hitting the spray. With any luck you will throw a rod too and then the road will be a little more safe. Immature teens and fast cars turn into bad outcomes way too much as it is. I had a buddy who talked like you and now he's dead.
Street racing is dumb as hell, especially when you don't have your car properly setup for it.
Just my .02. Have fun
Street racing is dumb as hell, especially when you don't have your car properly setup for it.
Just my .02. Have fun
N20 is like anything else. If you upgrade a few things and tune for it then it's great. If you just hook up a bottle and flip a switch then you're just asking for problems.
11-28-2007, 09:43 AM
#37
Street racing is fine for fun, as long as you do it on a road that nobody else travels, like in warehouse districts at night or farm country, where you dont have to worry about cars and the street is 50 feet wide.
Its like anything else, there will always be those people racing redlight to redlight weaving through traffic, or passing you at 150 on the highway racing somebody. Those people are the reason the cops are so hard on street racing these days. Like Nick Hogan, why was he racing on a narrow *** street when it was slick out and on a road that is well traveled? Just retarded.
If you live somewhere where there are no safe secluded roads... keep it on the track.
Its like anything else, there will always be those people racing redlight to redlight weaving through traffic, or passing you at 150 on the highway racing somebody. Those people are the reason the cops are so hard on street racing these days. Like Nick Hogan, why was he racing on a narrow *** street when it was slick out and on a road that is well traveled? Just retarded.
If you live somewhere where there are no safe secluded roads... keep it on the track.
11-28-2007, 11:50 AM
#38
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What he said^. Your a lot better off if you know of a wide back road that has had the maintenance kept up.
Didn't mean to sound like an *** to those of you that do street race. I just think its good for folks to hear a word of caution every once in a while.
In any case I think the Op has all the information he could need and this thread is really not producing any good information anymore.
While were talking opinions however I'll offer mine for nitrous. Just like when you put on good sticky tires and lots of horse, the weakest link in your drivetrain will always be the first to go. Nitrous is an instant boost of 100 or more horse. This of course stresses the system. On a stock engine, the rods and more specifically the bolts are the weak link so they will be the first to go in most circumstances. The stock pistons are next. If you like your motor you will want to go forged internals and get the proper tune. That should keep you from fragging your engine. The rear end will be next
Didn't mean to sound like an *** to those of you that do street race. I just think its good for folks to hear a word of caution every once in a while.
In any case I think the Op has all the information he could need and this thread is really not producing any good information anymore.
While were talking opinions however I'll offer mine for nitrous. Just like when you put on good sticky tires and lots of horse, the weakest link in your drivetrain will always be the first to go. Nitrous is an instant boost of 100 or more horse. This of course stresses the system. On a stock engine, the rods and more specifically the bolts are the weak link so they will be the first to go in most circumstances. The stock pistons are next. If you like your motor you will want to go forged internals and get the proper tune. That should keep you from fragging your engine. The rear end will be next