I CANT DECIDE!!! Boost VS H/C
#22
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The one bad thing about H/C in AZ is that you can't push the timing as much as in the midwest. If you're going to go Boost, go for broke, otherwise you'll only break stuff. That's how it gets expensive. A H/C combo with the right size headers and good intake will definitely impress.
They way I'd go about it is...Come up with a budget, then talk to people who have done what you want to do and ask them how much they spent, and if they'd do anything different. Talk to some shops and get prices. Remember either way get a package that works together. If you're an auto, you'll need a converter if you go with a big cam. If you're stick you'll want a new clutch to hold the new found power.
On a boosted stock LS1 with 7-8lbs of boost we see between 470-490rwhp on our Mustang dyno through an automatic. With a cam and a little more boost (10psi)we see about 530rwhp.
Now we've done a few cam only LS6 Z06 Vettes that have made 440rwhp. A FAST intake and a set of TrickFlow heads would definitely make 460-470rwhp, so you're not that far from the S/C.
The big added cost in a boost application is the fuel system required to safely reach the HP levels. Anything under 60lb/hr injectors is a joke, even with only 6-7psi. Now you have to upgrade the pump to keep the injectors from getting thirsty. And I'd also get a boost a pump set up as well for insurance. At 7lbs of boost on a stock motor you'll start seen valve float, so you'll need to change the valve springs while you're at it. To do Boost right, it cost money. To make a lot of power with a H/C combo it takes money. It's just a mater of how much do you have to spend.
They way I'd go about it is...Come up with a budget, then talk to people who have done what you want to do and ask them how much they spent, and if they'd do anything different. Talk to some shops and get prices. Remember either way get a package that works together. If you're an auto, you'll need a converter if you go with a big cam. If you're stick you'll want a new clutch to hold the new found power.
On a boosted stock LS1 with 7-8lbs of boost we see between 470-490rwhp on our Mustang dyno through an automatic. With a cam and a little more boost (10psi)we see about 530rwhp.
Now we've done a few cam only LS6 Z06 Vettes that have made 440rwhp. A FAST intake and a set of TrickFlow heads would definitely make 460-470rwhp, so you're not that far from the S/C.
The big added cost in a boost application is the fuel system required to safely reach the HP levels. Anything under 60lb/hr injectors is a joke, even with only 6-7psi. Now you have to upgrade the pump to keep the injectors from getting thirsty. And I'd also get a boost a pump set up as well for insurance. At 7lbs of boost on a stock motor you'll start seen valve float, so you'll need to change the valve springs while you're at it. To do Boost right, it cost money. To make a lot of power with a H/C combo it takes money. It's just a mater of how much do you have to spend.
#23
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The one bad thing about H/C in AZ is that you can't push the timing as much as in the midwest. If you're going to go Boost, go for broke, otherwise you'll only break stuff. That's how it gets expensive. A H/C combo with the right size headers and good intake will definitely impress.
They way I'd go about it is...Come up with a budget, then talk to people who have done what you want to do and ask them how much they spent, and if they'd do anything different. Talk to some shops and get prices. Remember either way get a package that works together. If you're an auto, you'll need a converter if you go with a big cam. If you're stick you'll want a new clutch to hold the new found power.
On a boosted stock LS1 with 7-8lbs of boost we see between 470-490rwhp on our Mustang dyno through an automatic. With a cam and a little more boost (10psi)we see about 530rwhp.
Now we've done a few cam only LS6 Z06 Vettes that have made 440rwhp. A FAST intake and a set of TrickFlow heads would definitely make 460-470rwhp, so you're not that far from the S/C.
The big added cost in a boost application is the fuel system required to safely reach the HP levels. Anything under 60lb/hr injectors is a joke, even with only 6-7psi. Now you have to upgrade the pump to keep the injectors from getting thirsty. And I'd also get a boost a pump set up as well for insurance. At 7lbs of boost on a stock motor you'll start seen valve float, so you'll need to change the valve springs while you're at it. To do Boost right, it cost money. To make a lot of power with a H/C combo it takes money. It's just a mater of how much do you have to spend.
They way I'd go about it is...Come up with a budget, then talk to people who have done what you want to do and ask them how much they spent, and if they'd do anything different. Talk to some shops and get prices. Remember either way get a package that works together. If you're an auto, you'll need a converter if you go with a big cam. If you're stick you'll want a new clutch to hold the new found power.
On a boosted stock LS1 with 7-8lbs of boost we see between 470-490rwhp on our Mustang dyno through an automatic. With a cam and a little more boost (10psi)we see about 530rwhp.
Now we've done a few cam only LS6 Z06 Vettes that have made 440rwhp. A FAST intake and a set of TrickFlow heads would definitely make 460-470rwhp, so you're not that far from the S/C.
The big added cost in a boost application is the fuel system required to safely reach the HP levels. Anything under 60lb/hr injectors is a joke, even with only 6-7psi. Now you have to upgrade the pump to keep the injectors from getting thirsty. And I'd also get a boost a pump set up as well for insurance. At 7lbs of boost on a stock motor you'll start seen valve float, so you'll need to change the valve springs while you're at it. To do Boost right, it cost money. To make a lot of power with a H/C combo it takes money. It's just a mater of how much do you have to spend.
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#25
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I'm with most of the others,...go H/C first,....and build up your top end and fuel system,.....come back later on down the road next winter and do turbo. Exactly what i've done....cam only went 11's,...forged pistons and a built top end. Now im gonna go back in and put forged rods in and upgrade the fuel system and buy a couple turbo's and hope to hit 750rwhp and maybe hit a 9.99, who knows though.
#27
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If 3500 is all you have i vote H/C. i started my "little" FI prodject 3 years ago and im still not done. then i have to buy a 2k rear end and finish the chassis. see sig im in about 14,000 right now. Like said above the fuel system has to upgraded. I have a walbro 255 and #60 injectors and i ran ont of fuel at 5,000rpm,making 10 pounds of boost. i had to buy a kenny belle boost a pump. just more money. its not as easy as slapping on .a blower and away you go.
Last edited by conan; 12-14-2007 at 05:57 PM.
#29
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i would go with heads and a cam you can put 450 to the wheels on pump gas. i Believe you would need race gas to get that out of a boosted setup. These motors dont like more then about 6lbs on pump gas which will put you around the same are as the h/c setup. You have to consider if you break stuff you will need money to fix it too like the rearend. so with the h/c setup you will save money and if you get a nice complete you will be able to spin it to 7k or more if you want.
#32
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My budget is actually around the 4k mark.... give or take a few hundred....
I might have found an inter cooled set up for around 3k... I am really thinking boost. I have not made up my mind yet either, I have a build list for H/C and it totaled around 3100 cash, and thats everything up front too, like new oil pump, patriot heads, ect, ect...
I might have found an inter cooled set up for around 3k... I am really thinking boost. I have not made up my mind yet either, I have a build list for H/C and it totaled around 3100 cash, and thats everything up front too, like new oil pump, patriot heads, ect, ect...