Retune after Speedinc.?
#1
Retune after Speedinc.?
Hey guys,
My car was tuned by speed inc. in Schaumberg, Ill. After tune, SLP under drive pulley and granatelli MAF has been installed. The guy I bought the car from claimed 390RWHP. I wanted to check it and took it to the local tune shop in Louisville (Automotion). It hit 384RWHP. After talking to the guy, turns out he's an LS1 nut and claims he can get quite a bit more out of it with a retune. Cost is going to be around $450. Do you think it's worth it?
My car was tuned by speed inc. in Schaumberg, Ill. After tune, SLP under drive pulley and granatelli MAF has been installed. The guy I bought the car from claimed 390RWHP. I wanted to check it and took it to the local tune shop in Louisville (Automotion). It hit 384RWHP. After talking to the guy, turns out he's an LS1 nut and claims he can get quite a bit more out of it with a retune. Cost is going to be around $450. Do you think it's worth it?
#2
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Hey guys,
My car was tuned by speed inc. in Schaumberg, Ill. After tune, SLP under drive pulley and granatelli MAF has been installed. The guy I bought the car from claimed 390RWHP. I wanted to check it and took it to the local tune shop in Louisville (Automotion). It hit 384RWHP. After talking to the guy, turns out he's an LS1 nut and claims he can get quite a bit more out of it with a retune. Cost is going to be around $450. Do you think it's worth it?
My car was tuned by speed inc. in Schaumberg, Ill. After tune, SLP under drive pulley and granatelli MAF has been installed. The guy I bought the car from claimed 390RWHP. I wanted to check it and took it to the local tune shop in Louisville (Automotion). It hit 384RWHP. After talking to the guy, turns out he's an LS1 nut and claims he can get quite a bit more out of it with a retune. Cost is going to be around $450. Do you think it's worth it?
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#8
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Speed does a lot of tuning and I'm sure your at a safe tune as is. I don't see the worth of spending $450 for another tune that will get you another 5-10 hp and might make your tune unsafe.
#10
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Ditch the MAF, go back to stock and you'll probably be back at 390.
Overall, 390rwhp is about as good as you should get with those mods. Not sure if you have a stock LS6 intake or not, but you didn't list heads so I assume they are stock. Assuming your .581 lift cam has a 22x duration, and considering you're using SLP LTs (worst LT offered, IMO), and 4.11 gears are robbing dyno numbers, I'd say 390 is about all you should ever expect. IMO.
Get better LTs, LS6 intake (if you don't already have it), and some heads. Then retune, and you'll be into the ~430ish range at the wheels.
#12
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agreed, the MAF is a waste of money. your probably running rich now with the MAF installed.
i wouldnt go so far to say the SLP LT's are the worst as far as getting different ones to pick up a few horses, they are just a bad design that makes them the worst. all LT's dyno about the same. and the SLP's being tuned length, i dont think that would count them out as a contender in the dyno wars, however they scrape on everything, ditch them. lol
what im saying is dont ditch them because there is a better header for performance, but ditch them for driveability issues. if you really want to to pick up a few probably negligable (sp?) hp, you could move up to AR's, Kooks or QTP's with the HVMC's, but i dont see the cost being justified with the small cam and stock cubes you have. either stick with the SLP's if you can live with the bad GC, or get some pacesetters, tried and true.
i wouldnt go so far to say the SLP LT's are the worst as far as getting different ones to pick up a few horses, they are just a bad design that makes them the worst. all LT's dyno about the same. and the SLP's being tuned length, i dont think that would count them out as a contender in the dyno wars, however they scrape on everything, ditch them. lol
what im saying is dont ditch them because there is a better header for performance, but ditch them for driveability issues. if you really want to to pick up a few probably negligable (sp?) hp, you could move up to AR's, Kooks or QTP's with the HVMC's, but i dont see the cost being justified with the small cam and stock cubes you have. either stick with the SLP's if you can live with the bad GC, or get some pacesetters, tried and true.
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#16
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agreed, the MAF is a waste of money. your probably running rich now with the MAF installed.
i wouldnt go so far to say the SLP LT's are the worst as far as getting different ones to pick up a few horses, they are just a bad design that makes them the worst. all LT's dyno about the same. and the SLP's being tuned length, i dont think that would count them out as a contender in the dyno wars, however they scrape on everything, ditch them. lol
what im saying is dont ditch them because there is a better header for performance, but ditch them for driveability issues. if you really want to to pick up a few probably negligable (sp?) hp, you could move up to AR's, Kooks or QTP's with the HVMC's, but i dont see the cost being justified with the small cam and stock cubes you have. either stick with the SLP's if you can live with the bad GC, or get some pacesetters, tried and true.
i wouldnt go so far to say the SLP LT's are the worst as far as getting different ones to pick up a few horses, they are just a bad design that makes them the worst. all LT's dyno about the same. and the SLP's being tuned length, i dont think that would count them out as a contender in the dyno wars, however they scrape on everything, ditch them. lol
what im saying is dont ditch them because there is a better header for performance, but ditch them for driveability issues. if you really want to to pick up a few probably negligable (sp?) hp, you could move up to AR's, Kooks or QTP's with the HVMC's, but i dont see the cost being justified with the small cam and stock cubes you have. either stick with the SLP's if you can live with the bad GC, or get some pacesetters, tried and true.
#17
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true, i guess if it were my car, i couldnt see paying upwards of 1000 bucks for a set of Kooks or w/e and only gaining a few inches GC, (which i understand with our cars, inches is miles) and 10RWHP. since the headers are on the car already, (again if it were mine) i would leave them if i could live with dodging speed bumps, etc...dont think he would get much for the SLP's but since they were on the car when he bought it, i guess a penny is profit.
#19
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I agree that the Granateli MAF's can sometimes screw up your tune, or make you run rich. I would also reccomend you play it safe, and go back to the stock one.
As for the tune, lets just say for the sake of the discussion that this guy can tune just as good as Speed Inc. You already know that Speed Inc knows what they are doing, and that they performed an accurate, and safe tune on the car prior to the MAF and underdrive pulley. Even if you were to take the car back to Speed Inc for a re-tune with just a pulley and a different MAF, you are not talking about that much more you could gain. Maybe 10-15 RWHP if that. That is not worth $450 for a re-tune IMO at all. (Speaking of which, an average dyno tune will cost between $400-and $500)
If the guy swears he will get you more RWHP, then even if he could, I wouldn't trust the tune, as you can usually take a safe tune, and make it "not safe" by advancing the timing, or leaning it out to the point where you could get a few more RWHP, but you will be dangerously close to running into a condition that may cause your motor to blow.
Tune's are expensive either way. I would wait till you have more mods done to the point where you know you will be leaving the car where it is performance wise for a long period of time, if not indefinatly. Then I would get a new dyno tune. For what little mods extra you have like the pulley and MAF, I would just leave it.
As for the tune, lets just say for the sake of the discussion that this guy can tune just as good as Speed Inc. You already know that Speed Inc knows what they are doing, and that they performed an accurate, and safe tune on the car prior to the MAF and underdrive pulley. Even if you were to take the car back to Speed Inc for a re-tune with just a pulley and a different MAF, you are not talking about that much more you could gain. Maybe 10-15 RWHP if that. That is not worth $450 for a re-tune IMO at all. (Speaking of which, an average dyno tune will cost between $400-and $500)
If the guy swears he will get you more RWHP, then even if he could, I wouldn't trust the tune, as you can usually take a safe tune, and make it "not safe" by advancing the timing, or leaning it out to the point where you could get a few more RWHP, but you will be dangerously close to running into a condition that may cause your motor to blow.
Tune's are expensive either way. I would wait till you have more mods done to the point where you know you will be leaving the car where it is performance wise for a long period of time, if not indefinatly. Then I would get a new dyno tune. For what little mods extra you have like the pulley and MAF, I would just leave it.