best shift points for ls1?
05-22-2008, 02:19 PM
#41
11 Second Club
Of course. But in over 500 track passes I have only raced one and I beat him badly. After my car comes back from New Era next week I should be high 10's on motor.
So while I concede the possibilty that it "could" happen, the smart money says it never will. There just are not that many of them out there. Most Fbodies I see are LT1, LS1 or first generation.
But that's just me playing the odds
So while I concede the possibilty that it "could" happen, the smart money says it never will. There just are not that many of them out there. Most Fbodies I see are LT1, LS1 or first generation.
But that's just me playing the odds
05-22-2008, 02:32 PM
#42
Of course. But in over 500 track passes I have only raced one and I beat him badly. After my car comes back from New Era next week I should be high 10's on motor.
So while I concede the possibilty that it "could" happen, the smart money says it never will. There just are not that many of them out there. Most Fbodies I see are LT1, LS1 or first generation.
But that's just me playing the odds
So while I concede the possibilty that it "could" happen, the smart money says it never will. There just are not that many of them out there. Most Fbodies I see are LT1, LS1 or first generation.
But that's just me playing the odds
05-22-2008, 02:41 PM
#43
11 Second Club
Although I did absolutely love the IROC Z28's back when I was in highschool (1984-1987). I wanted one so bad back then. Of course I had no idea how slow they were. I just remember that they were my second favorite car. The first was the 77 smokey and the bandit Trans Am.
Of course now I'm a little disappointed to know that my two favorite cars in HS were slow turds. But they looked cool as hell
05-22-2008, 02:50 PM
#44
Ya my ole 81 Z back in Highschool was slow but would roast the tires like nobody's business and was great to cruize in. It was mint inside and out with bolt full bolts, cam, intake, etc. Back in school it was fun for awhile until the slow factor kicked in.
05-22-2008, 07:10 PM
#45
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How about a bit of experience from someone who has dynoed a TR224 and driven it a the track?
Traction isn't my friend though so my 60 ft range from 1.9-2.1. My times vary with 60 ft and chirps from my 2-3 shift which I'm hoping to address with a torque arm and better shocks installed already for this year. I run 12.8-13.2 fairly consistently. Nothing wastes more time than having to deal with wheel spin for all of 1st gear, part of 2nd gear. That's with Nitto 555R 315 drag radials and 4k clutch dumps.
My setup has my TR224 112 peaking in HP about 5800-5900rpm with peak torque around 4200rpm. General rule I've followed is to shift a few hundred rpm PAST the peak HP of my setup. That has me shifting around 6200rpm, my rev limiter is set to 6500rpm. Torque curve on my setup is fairly flat though I peak at 373, even up to 6000 I still have 360ft/lb on tap. Ideally you want each shift to drop you right about the peak torque of your curve. Since each gear change in a m6 is roughly 33% reduction in RPM EXCEPT for 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 is best served with the 6000rpm shifts as it drops it to 4000rpm roughly. 1-2 has a larger gap which as the theory goes wants you to shift a bit higher.
That's all fine in theory, but you have to experiment with your setup as there are dozens more variables to consider than dyno numbers and most of them will deal with the traction you have on hand or rather what you don't have. I've seen Cobra's run 13's and 14's with ridiculous 115mph trap speeds all because the driver can't drive or hook if his life depended on it.
Traction isn't my friend though so my 60 ft range from 1.9-2.1. My times vary with 60 ft and chirps from my 2-3 shift which I'm hoping to address with a torque arm and better shocks installed already for this year. I run 12.8-13.2 fairly consistently. Nothing wastes more time than having to deal with wheel spin for all of 1st gear, part of 2nd gear. That's with Nitto 555R 315 drag radials and 4k clutch dumps.
My setup has my TR224 112 peaking in HP about 5800-5900rpm with peak torque around 4200rpm. General rule I've followed is to shift a few hundred rpm PAST the peak HP of my setup. That has me shifting around 6200rpm, my rev limiter is set to 6500rpm. Torque curve on my setup is fairly flat though I peak at 373, even up to 6000 I still have 360ft/lb on tap. Ideally you want each shift to drop you right about the peak torque of your curve. Since each gear change in a m6 is roughly 33% reduction in RPM EXCEPT for 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 is best served with the 6000rpm shifts as it drops it to 4000rpm roughly. 1-2 has a larger gap which as the theory goes wants you to shift a bit higher.
That's all fine in theory, but you have to experiment with your setup as there are dozens more variables to consider than dyno numbers and most of them will deal with the traction you have on hand or rather what you don't have. I've seen Cobra's run 13's and 14's with ridiculous 115mph trap speeds all because the driver can't drive or hook if his life depended on it.
05-23-2008, 01:03 PM
#46
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I wanted one so bad back then. Of course I had no idea how slow they were.
06-19-2008, 06:18 AM
#47
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TR224.. go get it tuned because if you're running a cam on the stock tune and wanting to beat on it chances are good for breaking something. When you get it tuned you can look at your dyno sheet and decide for yourself where to shift.
I shift my TR224 112 at 6400.
I shift my TR224 112 at 6400.
06-19-2008, 07:43 AM
#48
I had mine dynoed, made similar power all the way to 5800, but weather I shift at 5200 or 5700 it seems to feel the same. Actually shifting at the higher rpm seems like over kill even though I made hp and tq all the way across. Go to the track, try doing a run shifting 5000, 5500 and then redline. Numbers dont lie, just try to keep all the other variables the same.
