1998 Camaro Z28 for $5450 at a dealer!?
06-17-2008, 01:01 AM
#21
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To be honest, I woulden't even worry about the 10 bolt. Aslong as the car wasen't raced and dragged its whole life the 10 bolt will be fine. Mine gets works out often and is still great. I would worry more about other effects a car with 130k on it has. If its the original clutch, you can use that to negotiate aswell, its gonna be on its last legs
06-17-2008, 05:50 AM
#22
You can't find anything closer to home then 300 miles? That's a long way to go to look at a car. I would send them PICs of your trade and get an idea of what they will give you for your trade before you drive out there. You could love the LS1 and then get screwed on your trade.....I'm sure they know you are coming 300 miles to see the car and could use that to their advantage.
06-17-2008, 08:27 AM
#23
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You can't find anything closer to home then 300 miles? That's a long way to go to look at a car. I would send them PICs of your trade and get an idea of what they will give you for your trade before you drive out there. You could love the LS1 and then get screwed on your trade.....I'm sure they know you are coming 300 miles to see the car and could use that to their advantage.
06-17-2008, 09:03 AM
#26
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If you're not that good of a mechanic I'd suggest taking a friend that is one with you...my brother has gotten my mom thousands off of used cars by going over and under the car pointing out every thing he could see wrong with the engine/tranny/exterior/interior.
06-17-2008, 04:02 PM
#27
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Dont rush into things. i would find out everything i could on the car, what they might offer on your trade (of course theyll probaly want to see it before giving a definative answer but you can get a ball park figure) before driving 300 miles. Just dont be in a rush there are alot of nice f-bodies out there to choose from.
06-17-2008, 04:38 PM
#28
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Yes, I have carfaxed the vehicle, and everything checks out so far, didn't see anything out of place. The original owner had it for 9 years and drove it till about 110k miles, and the second owner had it for a year before the dealership got a hold of it. Would it be safe to assume the car has been maintained decently if the first owner was able to keep it for those 9 years? I called the dealer and they assured me that I would get blue book value for my car, which sounds pretty reasonable, which should be between $2k-$2.5k.
06-17-2008, 06:30 PM
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Hmm, if you really like the car then I may go for it. Just don't rush into it, make sure its everything you want, and negotiate ALOT. You would only be spending like $2000-2500 out of pocket.
06-18-2008, 04:29 PM
#31
I just bought a 99 Z28 M6 with every available option (cept the SS option) with 130K on it for $4500.00. Mine was recently repainted (except for the GFX dont understand how the car looks so good but the GFX don't). I had to put work into mine tho, but it runs beautifully now.
06-18-2008, 07:01 PM
#32
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Thanks for the input guys. It sucks that the paint isn't exactly perfect, but I'm not surprised by it considering the mileage and age, besides, it isn't THAT bad (to me anyway) and as mentioned, can be used as a negotiation factor. I'm planning on offering $4k, but if they can do somewhere in between $4.5k and $5k and give me a fair price on my trade-in (02 escort zx2) I will officially be in the ls1 club. Of course, this is assuming that the car is mechanically sound for the most part! Which brings to the third part of my original post, can someone answer it in detail? thanks.
"Also, since this will be my first time thoroughly checking out an Fbody, what would be common areas that I should pay attention to? I'm aware that the weakpoints on these cars are window motors, rearend, stock clutch... and more that I'm probably forgetting. What kind of unusual sounds/feelings/smell should I watch out for? Also, I've read a bit about the LS1 motors being prone to knocking and/or pinging, how would this sound to the untrained ear like mine?"
"Also, since this will be my first time thoroughly checking out an Fbody, what would be common areas that I should pay attention to? I'm aware that the weakpoints on these cars are window motors, rearend, stock clutch... and more that I'm probably forgetting. What kind of unusual sounds/feelings/smell should I watch out for? Also, I've read a bit about the LS1 motors being prone to knocking and/or pinging, how would this sound to the untrained ear like mine?"
06-18-2008, 10:31 PM
#33
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id say if your looking for a project and are willing to put a few hours and dollars into it, its not a bad starting platform. Get rid of that hood though. I just sold my 1998 with better paint, but 151k on the clock for 6400 with mods still on it. Rear isnt a big deal as previously mentioned, but noise shouldnt be the deciding factor. the rear gear and rebuild kit is like $300 online for good parts. Paintwise, if its just been neglected, just make sure it hasnt passed the point of no return (good polishing and waxing, maybe claybar). Suspension is a biggie. abuse can take its toll on these cars. Leaks? have em put it on the lift if your seriously considering it, and if they refuse screw em.
06-20-2008, 05:33 PM
#34
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Ok guys, it's a no-go.. for now anyway. They called me and told me that even after recharging the a/c, it still isn't cold, and the tech suspects a blockage somewhere. The other problem is a misfire in cylinder three, causing check engine light code m303 or something? Anyway, do these sound like severe problems? They claim to be working to fix this stuff right now, and should be done in a few days..
