PacerX

iTrader: (4)

I've contacted a local shop by the name of CARS about modifying my '01 SS.

He's working up two builds - a forced induction build, and a high-revving N/A build.

My budget for the engine portion of the build is about $8,000.

As it sits:
For the motor, the block and crank are good, along with all the ancillary parts. I missed a shift ages ago and a piston smacked a couple of valves, so at a minimum I want to replace the pistons and rods and heads.

I need a new intake manifold, throttle body and fuel injectors.

I have:
Holley aluminum intake (yuck... I know...)
SLP MAF (larger one)
Spec Clutch and new slave
Lid
Strut tower brace
4130 Driveshaft

Everything else on the motor/car is fine.

My power goal is somewhere in the mid 400's at the wheels.

What do you guys think a good build, within or close to my budget, would be?


PS - The rest of my budget will be taken up with a 3.73 geared Dana 60 from DTS and a T-56 strengthening for peace of mind.

406malibu

for 8k you could easily have a nasty N/A LS1 (If you do the work yourself, not sure how much you'd have to add in for labor), I have no idea about FI tho. the right H/C/I/E combo and you'd definitely be at 450, or more. Just remember its not about peak numbers, you can have a car make 450 peak hp get beat by a car with 400 peak hp, if it has a lot better torque curve

NSSANE02

iTrader: (14)

H/C/I will get you the power you want and then some. Dont even think about going FI on an 8K budget, especially if your rearend is included in that.

PacerX

iTrader: (4)

Rearend would not be included in that, or the trans work (slight grind on the 2-3 shift...).

Wow, I'm kinda surprised that a FI engine can't be built for $8000.

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

Yea, unfortuantely you will end up spending 12-15k for a FI build. My receipt on my car (including labor) was $16,000 not including the D1-SC kit ($6k) or the AFR's ($2k).

I built a complete H/C car on my last one for $7k including transmission, labor, and gears. Mine was a stalled automatic so it has more drivetrain loss than an M6 but I made 441/420 with a y-pipe setup and a stall, had it been a 6 speed it would have been well into the 450+ area with a y pipe!

PacerX

iTrader: (4)

Alrighty...

Howza 'bout this then...

A 383 stroker, LT's, intake, fuel injectors, tune, etc... with a good set of heads and a cam?

Any head recommendations? What size fuel injectors? TSP headers and Y pipe? Cam?

78novacaine

iTrader: (2)

you can find a 40x shortblock for around 3k nowadays from some of the sponsors, that would be a good building block for 500 rwhp N/A

hoss 2000 z-28

iTrader: (1)

Kudos to you for having the sense to beef up your trans and rearend as you step up the power. Forced induction seems to always cost more than planned. You can easily meet your goals going with a stroker kit for less than FI.

I know it wouldn't be much fun but if you want to go FI, do it right the first time. Get your drivetrain components upgraded and save up for a Procharger D1-SC with supporting mods.

Have fun whatever you end up doing!

PacerX

iTrader: (4)

As every minute passes, it starts to look more and more like a 383 stroker.

Given the fact that i need to buy an intake manifold, fuel injectors, throttle body (maybe...), coil relocation kit and valve covers too, this just seems to make the most sense...

I have a little extra $$$ to do that stuff, but not a whole lot.

There are a few good deals out there on used supercharger systems, but that might come with it's own set of potential disasters.

DANOZ28

iTrader: (1)

a 402 short block, stage 2 heads, nice cam. then a rear & trans upgrade. if your thinking FI check out the book dyno proven performance ls1/ls7. its a big advertisement but some cool comparisons of a few blowers & turbos. but give our sponsors a call like TSP etc.. just my 2 cents.

PacerX

iTrader: (4)

Wow.

I just can't figure out how an installed 402 that's basically new can be done for $8000.

Even TSP is up over $7000 without the install and the ancillary parts.

NSSANE02

iTrader: (14)

If you really want an FI setup read this.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/567592-real-price-forced-induction.html

Perfect example.

PacerX

iTrader: (4)

Yep.

Seems like that wouldn't work out.

NSSANE02

iTrader: (14)

You could stay with the stock crank, pistons, and rods, just upgrade the rod bolts. I would go with either TrickFlow or AFR heads and a custom cam. Definately go with LT's and some type of true duals, you wont regret it.

PacerX

iTrader: (4)

May reuse the stock crank (depending on budgetary concerns), but the pistons and rods gotta go.

Way early in the car's life, the valves and pistons had themselves a little "come to Jesus meeting" due to a missed shift (to this day, I insist that this was NOT my fault - and have a new shifter and slave because of it...).

NSSANE02

iTrader: (14)

In that case, you could add some N2O with any left over money.

PacerX

iTrader: (4)

Hmmmm....

"Grenade Gas"

Well...

I might not be that brave.

NSSANE02

iTrader: (14)

With forged pistons and rods, you've really got nothing to worry about with a well put together wet kit.

PacerX

iTrader: (4)

Well, I'll talk to the builder about considering it.

Stuff scares the crap outta me.

Stories usually begin with:

"Everything was fine until this stupid little part failed..."

And end with...

"...cost $7000 to fix."

NSSANE02

iTrader: (14)

Read the nitrous FAQ's and do some research in that forum. They are fairly safe with all the safety switches and a good kit.