View Poll Results: What Mod's?
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9" or Heads/Cam???
09-25-2008, 04:30 PM
#62
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if you have the money for a 9" i would get that, it will be easer to but the cheaper things later, also if you go h/c then a week later snap the rear then what?
09-25-2008, 05:16 PM
#63
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9" first. my buddy had a 12 bolt w/ 4.11's, ran it at the track, et was a 7.80. even on the street, he could launch the heck out of it and be car lengths ahead. being just bolt on, dont have to worry bout spinning. i've always been told, "spinning aint winning"
09-25-2008, 06:01 PM
#65
Depends if its going to be a dedicated track car or a street car and if your going to run a sticky tire or not. I went with cam first in my z28 because it was strictkly a street car that i wouldnt be launching. If your going to be running at the track then 9inch hands down.
09-25-2008, 06:52 PM
#67
I was in your shoes just over 2 yrs ago. I had the money to do some big things, and right before I got ready to purchase the heads/cam and supporting components, I thought my rear was going south. It wound up being the through bolts for the torque arm to the housing were loose and creaking.
Anyhow, so the money I thought I might have to spend on a rear instead of heads, would up being spent on heads! Looking back on it now, and alot of the time before I FINALLY got a rear, I should have went cam only with a 9 inch til money for the heads came along.
You have NO idea how much grief I went through because I only roll raced from a 2nd gear 40 hit. I had already blew the differential once a few months after installing the heads/cam, and didnt want to do it again.
After about 2 yrs, I was ready to make a big purchase again, and took my car to the track just to see if I could get maybe one or two passes outta the old 7.5.....NOPE! Blew it on the 1st pass like I feared
Now I have a Moser M9 and she's ready for some beating! I could have been faster all along with the rear and a cam than trying to preserve that shitty 10 bolt.
Long *** post I know, hope it helps
Anyhow, so the money I thought I might have to spend on a rear instead of heads, would up being spent on heads! Looking back on it now, and alot of the time before I FINALLY got a rear, I should have went cam only with a 9 inch til money for the heads came along.
You have NO idea how much grief I went through because I only roll raced from a 2nd gear 40 hit. I had already blew the differential once a few months after installing the heads/cam, and didnt want to do it again.
After about 2 yrs, I was ready to make a big purchase again, and took my car to the track just to see if I could get maybe one or two passes outta the old 7.5.....NOPE! Blew it on the 1st pass like I feared
Now I have a Moser M9 and she's ready for some beating! I could have been faster all along with the rear and a cam than trying to preserve that shitty 10 bolt.
Long *** post I know, hope it helps
09-25-2008, 08:19 PM
#71
$3k on a rear? I'm sure it's quality and all but overkill is expensive IMO
can you f body guys really not have a 12 bolt or something built for like $2000 or less? I mean I guess it would need to be modded to fit but still...I have under $1000 in mine and the only thing I reused was the housing
can you f body guys really not have a 12 bolt or something built for like $2000 or less? I mean I guess it would need to be modded to fit but still...I have under $1000 in mine and the only thing I reused was the housing
09-25-2008, 08:33 PM
#72
It's a BADASS piece! I love it!
Don't forget that it COMES with a chrome moly trans cross member AND a torque arm. Factor those in with the price of the standard Moser 9 inch, and it's hard NOT to get the M9! Unless of course your not as hardcore as people like myself and want poly bushings instead of all rod ends.
$3k on a rear? I'm sure it's quality and all but overkill is expensive IMO
can you f body guys really not have a 12 bolt or something built for like $2000 or less? I mean I guess it would need to be modded to fit but still...I have under $1000 in mine and the only thing I reused was the housing
can you f body guys really not have a 12 bolt or something built for like $2000 or less? I mean I guess it would need to be modded to fit but still...I have under $1000 in mine and the only thing I reused was the housing
09-28-2008, 11:34 AM
#74
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dont make the same mistake that i've made...get the 9 inch!..build the car from the rear to the front..get the rear end, then the clutch..then start throwing power at it. I'm on my second 10 bolt and im scared to even take my car to the track because i'm pretty sure if i spray it out of the hole it will blow this 10 bolt up. So now i'm not really having any fun with my car until i save enough money for a 12 bolt or 9 inch...thats just my 2 cents
09-28-2008, 12:08 PM
#75
Just because you have a rear end does not mean nothing will still break. I like seeing how everyone seems to think the rear solves all your problems and makes your car like superman all the sudden lol. Thing is you need a plan. I personally watched a 12 bolt blow a set of 4.56 gears and a few 9" rears go, driveshafts get twisted, clutches break. If they hold then you get other weakpoints. You will not drive that car any harder with a 9" then with H/C/C. Why? Because that clutch, tranny, D/S will never take what the rear can. Its cheaper to rebuild that 10 bolt then the damage from a d/s that let go at the joints, or a M6 busting the tail housing, internals or shattered clutch or several other things that can still go wrong either way. Buy the H/C/C then save the money to do the rear alittle bit down the road. You can buy several used or newish H/C off the for sale section for 1500 and make great power leaving you with over 1000 later for a rear. My last setup was a 2000 SS with a Magnacharger making 400 RWTQ at 2200 RPM's on a stock 3.42. I upgraded to a Moser 9" later because I planned on hitting the tracks hard. I never would have changed the rear if I was to stay on the street with it.
First of all have a build in mind.
Know what your goal is and build towards that goal.
Know a realistic budget, no one has to know what it is but you and a wife if your married. What you can afford do by saving and or up front. Once you know that then make a plan and decide which should be first.
I hear it all the time get a forged short block first or rear first blah blah. **** breaks even those whether you put the power down or not. I rather rebuild the cheaper stuff first, get the product first then get the support to keep it going. But thats me.
First of all have a build in mind.
Know what your goal is and build towards that goal.
Know a realistic budget, no one has to know what it is but you and a wife if your married. What you can afford do by saving and or up front. Once you know that then make a plan and decide which should be first.
I hear it all the time get a forged short block first or rear first blah blah. **** breaks even those whether you put the power down or not. I rather rebuild the cheaper stuff first, get the product first then get the support to keep it going. But thats me.
