LS1 TA Static Battery Drain
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LS1 TA Static Battery Drain Well, my cars doing it too, and its driving me nuts, I searched through the numerous, and I mean numerous posts about this and have yet to find anyone that actually figured it out. I have read all the directions on using the amp meter in between the positive and the bat and removing fuses one by one, but no one has ever posted up that they fixed it.
I have been through two optimas, just to make sure I did not have a bad battery, the only aftermarket item I had on my car, a US spec ipod adapeter, has been isolated, and its still draining about 1 volt per 24 hours.
On my volt meter it is reading more tha 2 mA draw, but on the 20mA setting it is reading nothing
Has anyone figured it out It has got to be something common, 
, my battery cables look fine too, my engine bay is squeaky clean, no corrosion or anything that I can see. No lights or anything are stuck on either.
I have been through two optimas, just to make sure I did not have a bad battery, the only aftermarket item I had on my car, a US spec ipod adapeter, has been isolated, and its still draining about 1 volt per 24 hours.
On my volt meter it is reading more tha 2 mA draw, but on the 20mA setting it is reading nothing
Has anyone figured it out
It has got to be something common, , my battery cables look fine too, my engine bay is squeaky clean, no corrosion or anything that I can see. No lights or anything are stuck on either. I had the same problem with my car when I was running Optima batteries.. My stock Delco got a little weak in the winter so I tossed in an Optima Red top. I went through 3 red tops in under a year. I Did all kinds of diagnosing and tried everything short of disconnecting the battery every time I let the car sit. I got fed up and tossed in the stock Delco and didn't have any more problems until the winter came around. I've been using a Duralast since then with no problems at all.
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Thats just it, from everything I can tell, there is supposed to be approximately a 3 mA draw from the alarm, ecm, etc, so my meter on the 2mA setting reads greater than 2 mA but when I switch it to 20 mA it is not reading anything, so I basically need to know if anybody has found the white rabbit, i.e the common fault, surely it is not something different on all the cars, it is a VERY common problem.
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I had the same problem with my car when I was running Optima batteries.. My stock Delco got a little weak in the winter so I tossed in an Optima Red top. I went through 3 red tops in under a year. I Did all kinds of diagnosing and tried everything short of disconnecting the battery every time I let the car sit. I got fed up and tossed in the stock Delco and didn't have any more problems until the winter came around. I've been using a Duralast since then with no problems at all.
I may try a cheapo walmart batttery the next time I got TDY, and throw it in there for two weeks, just to experiment. It seems that no one has succesfully trouble shot with a amp meter and figured out the draw.
I have the amp unhooked overnight and am going to measure in the morning and see, after that, I guess I will disconnect the alternator overnight, although, the car is charging just fine, stranger things have happened.
Thats just it, from everything I can tell, there is supposed to be approximately a 3 mA draw from the alarm, ecm, etc, so my meter on the 2mA setting reads greater than 2 mA but when I switch it to 20 mA it is not reading anything, so I basically need to know if anybody has found the white rabbit, i.e the common fault, surely it is not something different on all the cars, it is a VERY common problem.
Im in exactly the same boat as you guys. I have a yellow top (Optima). I tried to searcg for a significant draw but still nothing. Ive opted for giving the battery a charge at least once per week. Im also losing about 1 volt/24 hours. Mine is a 1999. I have good charger that prevents over charging and performs the function completely automatic.
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And this whole time I thought I was the only one with the unusual Problem with Optimas............ Ive been through 2 optimas in the past year and a half.... im on my third.
1st and 2nd Optimas had shorts in the battery cell themselves, the 1st one had such a bad short that my dash lights would come on all of a sudden if i hit a hard bump. 2nd one had less of a short.
On a related note, I had a draining problem as well, my car would not start if left alone for 2 days. Changed out the red top to another brand new one and no problems since.
What I DID find however, is that the + Terminal at the battery was almost eaten through. It was not noticable at all until I took the rubber cover off of it. I just ordered a new cable through GM.
PS.. I am a Mobile Electronics Tech and cannot believe how I missed the corrosion.
1st and 2nd Optimas had shorts in the battery cell themselves, the 1st one had such a bad short that my dash lights would come on all of a sudden if i hit a hard bump. 2nd one had less of a short.
On a related note, I had a draining problem as well, my car would not start if left alone for 2 days. Changed out the red top to another brand new one and no problems since.
What I DID find however, is that the + Terminal at the battery was almost eaten through. It was not noticable at all until I took the rubber cover off of it. I just ordered a new cable through GM.
PS.. I am a Mobile Electronics Tech and cannot believe how I missed the corrosion.
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Thread Starter
Launching!
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And this whole time I thought I was the only one with the unusual Problem with Optimas............ Ive been through 2 optimas in the past year and a half.... im on my third.
1st and 2nd Optimas had shorts in the battery cell themselves, the 1st one had such a bad short that my dash lights would come on all of a sudden if i hit a hard bump. 2nd one had less of a short.
On a related note, I had a draining problem as well, my car would not start if left alone for 2 days. Changed out the red top to another brand new one and no problems since.
What I DID find however, is that the + Terminal at the battery was almost eaten through. It was not noticable at all until I took the rubber cover off of it. I just ordered a new cable through GM.
PS.. I am a Mobile Electronics Tech and cannot believe how I missed the corrosion.
1st and 2nd Optimas had shorts in the battery cell themselves, the 1st one had such a bad short that my dash lights would come on all of a sudden if i hit a hard bump. 2nd one had less of a short.
On a related note, I had a draining problem as well, my car would not start if left alone for 2 days. Changed out the red top to another brand new one and no problems since.
What I DID find however, is that the + Terminal at the battery was almost eaten through. It was not noticable at all until I took the rubber cover off of it. I just ordered a new cable through GM.
PS.. I am a Mobile Electronics Tech and cannot believe how I missed the corrosion.
The Battery Terminal problem is the Ring terminal right under the rubber cover.
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Launching!
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NO it could be any battery. It just so happens that these "Performance" batteries have given myself and a few friends nothing but trouble. The only problems I had with AC delco Batteries was that theyd last about 2.5-3 years and theyd start leaking.
The Battery Terminal problem is the Ring terminal right under the rubber cover.
The Battery Terminal problem is the Ring terminal right under the rubber cover.
Just a FYI, I had a delco battery in my car, but it was dead on one occasion after a trip, I charged it and the next trip I took it was dead again, so I replaced it with the optima. It may have been draining ever since I bought the car last Dec, but i just never noticed it.
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Update, I got a good fluke 77 meter this morning from work and we were reading about 71mA of static draw, not good, should be about 3mA from what I learned.
We pulled every single fuse on the car and not a budge on the meter. What next?
We pulled every single fuse on the car and not a budge on the meter. What next?
If you really did pull all the fuses, and nothing changed, then it must be a short somewhere before the fusebox...check all wiring in the engine bay, and also the wiring that goes to the fusebox. Could be a simple rub-through somewhere.
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It would be nice if it was that simple would'nt it, too many cars with the same issue. I have already checked all the wiring I know about, but I am bound and determined, I am going to check it all again, one other thing, I want to try and I could not try today at work, is to completely remove the alternator from the equation, exciter wire and all, my engine bay and all the wiring look brand new at a glance though, my car is a exceptionally clean 60K miler, that gets super babbied, no mods, not hammered on at all, looks as good as when it rolled off the line, but seems like all F-bodys have their share of issues, mine is no different. The list.............
Piston Slap (wtf)
Door panel cracks (wtf x2) fixed those btw
Rattle from rear hatch
Tight *** power steering
Bulbs poping all the time
T-top leaking
Slow *** windows
Headlight doors won't seem to stay aligned
Now the batttery drain........GM quality, got to love it.
I love my car though, love my car. Love hate relationship
It would be nice if it was that simple would'nt it, too many cars with the same issue. I have already checked all the wiring I know about, but I am bound and determined, I am going to check it all again, one other thing, I want to try and I could not try today at work, is to completely remove the alternator from the equation, exciter wire and all, my engine bay and all the wiring look brand new at a glance though, my car is a exceptionally clean 60K miler, that gets super babbied, no mods, not hammered on at all, looks as good as when it rolled off the line, but seems like all F-bodys have their share of issues, mine is no different. The list.............
Piston Slap (wtf)
Door panel cracks (wtf x2) fixed those btw
Rattle from rear hatch
Tight *** power steering
Bulbs poping all the time
T-top leaking
Slow *** windows
Headlight doors won't seem to stay aligned
Now the batttery drain........GM quality, got to love it.
I love my car though, love my car. Love hate relationship
Piston Slap (wtf)
Door panel cracks (wtf x2) fixed those btw
Rattle from rear hatch
Tight *** power steering
Bulbs poping all the time
T-top leaking
Slow *** windows
Headlight doors won't seem to stay aligned
Now the batttery drain........GM quality, got to love it.
I love my car though, love my car. Love hate relationship
Damn that sucks dude, sorry you have such shitty luck. A shot in the dark - how about the starter solenoid. I dont think it is fused (just a fuseable link?) Could it be faulty and draw more power? Try disconnecting the heavy wire to the starter.
You will never get 3 mA draw from all the modules in the car. Typical parasitic drain is 20-30 mA without any aftermarket acc's. 71 mA shouldnt drain the battery in 1 day unless the battery is junk or undercharged.
Did you pull fuses on the I/P fuse block to see if the drain drops? You will have to do this with the d/s door open...but make sure you pull the interior lights fuse first or you may pop the internal fuse in the meter when you open the door.
Remove not only fuses, but relays and circuit breakers too. Some relays may be sticking causing the draw. Trust me...I've had my fair share of cases chasing down **** like this.
Did you pull fuses on the I/P fuse block to see if the drain drops? You will have to do this with the d/s door open...but make sure you pull the interior lights fuse first or you may pop the internal fuse in the meter when you open the door.
Remove not only fuses, but relays and circuit breakers too. Some relays may be sticking causing the draw. Trust me...I've had my fair share of cases chasing down **** like this.