Brake issues....
11-21-2008, 08:21 PM
#1
Launching!
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Brake issues.... Well I've been having problems with a low brake pedal for a while. So when I changed my brakes a couple months ago i found the 2 back calipers were leaking. Replaced them and the pedal still went really low... So tonight I replaced the master cylinder and noticed a lot of metal shavings in it. So I put the new master cylinder on and now my brake pedal goes almost straight to the damn floor when i hit it. My cousin has all the ASE certs and aint dumb. We bled the brakes 3 times over and were stumped as to what it could be? He said maybe the ABS but hes not positive, anyone have a clue on this one?
11-23-2008, 11:42 AM
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Launching!
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I have the same problem wiht my cadillac, but since its the car that gets me around, I dont really mind. When you push the pedal down can you get the abs to work? Do the brakes feel week, like if you really needed to stop?
11-23-2008, 07:05 PM
#4
Launching!
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When i push them they go straight to the floor than the low trac comes up and slows me down. I have to pump them like 4-5 times to get the car to brake normally. Its really unsafe. Someone at a local shop now thinks its my ABS unit too. But all my lines, calipers, and even my new master cylinder could be contaminated with metal and **** in the lines and all blah.... be such a huge job to do all that UGH.
11-24-2008, 01:07 AM
#5
Launching!
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That sucks. Straight from the book usually when your peddel feels spongy and you are able to push it all the way down is usually from having air in the lines, so maybe there is a mix of air and metal shavings, but after bleeding them 3 times i cant believe it. My cadillac does the same thing and yes its very dangerous, i just dont have the time to have them blead.
11-24-2008, 04:12 PM
#6
it's mentioned in the service manual, there's a procedure where you command the PCM to activate the ABS modulator to purge air from itself.
if you know you had metal shavings in the master cylinder, that's bad, you don't want that making it into the modulator.
it sounds like you already tried bleeding the system with the new master installed, what you should have done was disconnect the input line into the modulator from the master and bled the master to flush everything out prior to the modulator. Then reconnect and bleed the system, which will force everything out after the modulator; and a good idea since you used new calipers would be to disconnect the lines at the calipers and flush till you get clear fluid or go through a couple quarts, then reconnect each caliper and finish bleeding the entire system (having clean fluid going into new calipers), using a positive pressure type bleeder fitting onto the master cylinder would be ideal.
if you know you had metal shavings in the master cylinder, that's bad, you don't want that making it into the modulator.
it sounds like you already tried bleeding the system with the new master installed, what you should have done was disconnect the input line into the modulator from the master and bled the master to flush everything out prior to the modulator. Then reconnect and bleed the system, which will force everything out after the modulator; and a good idea since you used new calipers would be to disconnect the lines at the calipers and flush till you get clear fluid or go through a couple quarts, then reconnect each caliper and finish bleeding the entire system (having clean fluid going into new calipers), using a positive pressure type bleeder fitting onto the master cylinder would be ideal.
11-24-2008, 04:40 PM
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i have encountered many bad, new parts. i would not be surprised to find the new master has bad lip seals aswell as the old one. as far as commanding the abs on just do some hard stops in dirt or gravel and the abs will kick on and purge the system, the pedal should be rock hard after that. you could also flush the brake system with alcohol if you prefer, i just use brake fluid. please list the order in which you are bleeding??
