Tinting Windows??
Tinting Windows?? How hard is it on these cars for a 1st. timer, the side windows seem pretty straight forward, to all who have done theres, please give me some tips/imput, i just don't have the 200.00 that most places want right now, so i figured if i at least get the sides down, i can leave the rear too the pros. Also, is most tint thats bought at your local auto house any good, or even Wal-Mart??
tint from walmart is crap, get some GOOD tint, and get a lot.
i think 3M makes good tint, but i havent looked into it for a while.
if you are going to tint yourself, make sure you do it in a garage, i learned that one the hard way.
it is pretty easy to do the windows, i made a template out of construction paper and cut the tint out
although my tint job didnt work (thats how i found out the hard way to do it in a garage) $200 is a pretty cheap price to get tint for an f body.. well around here anyways.
i asked a few people, and a lot of people wont do these cars because the back windows are so hard.
it can be done, as long as you take your time and dont rush it
i think 3M makes good tint, but i havent looked into it for a while.
if you are going to tint yourself, make sure you do it in a garage, i learned that one the hard way.
it is pretty easy to do the windows, i made a template out of construction paper and cut the tint out
although my tint job didnt work (thats how i found out the hard way to do it in a garage) $200 is a pretty cheap price to get tint for an f body.. well around here anyways.
i asked a few people, and a lot of people wont do these cars because the back windows are so hard.
it can be done, as long as you take your time and dont rush it
Banned
Joined: Nov 2008
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I've done it to everything I've owned.
What I do with f-bodies is clean the inside and outside of the window area real good.
Use tape or just the solution to stick it on the outside of the window making sure the part you peel off is facing you. Place it so there will be approx 1/2" below the bottom weather strip.
Then open the door and cut it around the window, be careful not to cut the rubber on the bottom (maybe a strip of duct tape on top of the door rubber would help)
Leave it there, reclean the inside and leave it soaked down, then peel off the clear part while spraying the adhesive, be careful to not let it crease or it'll leave a line that will not come out.
So now you should have the cutout on the outside of the window soaked with solution, adhesive side out, inside of the window wet, door open. Take it off the outside and put it on the inside.
It's a pain getting it under the rubber so if you feel like taking the door panel off earlier it would be way way easier. Otherwise use a drivers license to work it under the rubber.
Having the right solution and plenty of it will help slide it around. Once it's under the rubber start with the squeegee at the center and work the solution out.
Trim as needed. I usually get all the solution out and take a very sharp exacto razor and zip it around the edge of the window with the blade facing up, body of the razor facing more toward the window. This way it leaves a angled edge that won't peel yet comes to the edge of the window.
You may have some cone shaped bubbles at the bottom that won't go away. If so try with the drivers license or similiar the next day, and the next, once the solution comes out you will be able to squeegee those bubbles away.
AND for buying tint. I get the best at the auto parts store but be sure whats in the box is what belongs in the box. I once bought some that one box was good but someone swapped the expensive stuff in a cheap box. So I had the cheap crap in the expensive box and two different shades on the car. Make sure the box is taped or there is an ID sticker on the tint roll that matches the box.
To do the side windows on an f-body you need two 2' x 6.5' rolls. (thats a common size, a good bit of it gets thrown away)
What I do with f-bodies is clean the inside and outside of the window area real good.
Use tape or just the solution to stick it on the outside of the window making sure the part you peel off is facing you. Place it so there will be approx 1/2" below the bottom weather strip.
Then open the door and cut it around the window, be careful not to cut the rubber on the bottom (maybe a strip of duct tape on top of the door rubber would help)
Leave it there, reclean the inside and leave it soaked down, then peel off the clear part while spraying the adhesive, be careful to not let it crease or it'll leave a line that will not come out.
So now you should have the cutout on the outside of the window soaked with solution, adhesive side out, inside of the window wet, door open. Take it off the outside and put it on the inside.
It's a pain getting it under the rubber so if you feel like taking the door panel off earlier it would be way way easier. Otherwise use a drivers license to work it under the rubber.
Having the right solution and plenty of it will help slide it around. Once it's under the rubber start with the squeegee at the center and work the solution out.
Trim as needed. I usually get all the solution out and take a very sharp exacto razor and zip it around the edge of the window with the blade facing up, body of the razor facing more toward the window. This way it leaves a angled edge that won't peel yet comes to the edge of the window.
You may have some cone shaped bubbles at the bottom that won't go away. If so try with the drivers license or similiar the next day, and the next, once the solution comes out you will be able to squeegee those bubbles away.
AND for buying tint. I get the best at the auto parts store but be sure whats in the box is what belongs in the box. I once bought some that one box was good but someone swapped the expensive stuff in a cheap box. So I had the cheap crap in the expensive box and two different shades on the car. Make sure the box is taped or there is an ID sticker on the tint roll that matches the box.
To do the side windows on an f-body you need two 2' x 6.5' rolls. (thats a common size, a good bit of it gets thrown away)
I've done it to everything I've owned.
What I do with f-bodies is clean the inside and outside of the window area real good.
Use tape or just the solution to stick it on the outside of the window making sure the part you peel off is facing you. Place it so there will be approx 1/2" below the bottom weather strip.
Then open the door and cut it around the window, be careful not to cut the rubber on the bottom (maybe a strip of duct tape on top of the door rubber would help)
Leave it there, reclean the inside and leave it soaked down, then peel off the clear part while spraying the adhesive, be careful to not let it crease or it'll leave a line that will not come out.
So now you should have the cutout on the outside of the window soaked with solution, adhesive side out, inside of the window wet, door open. Take it off the outside and put it on the inside.
It's a pain getting it under the rubber so if you feel like taking the door panel off earlier it would be way way easier. Otherwise use a drivers license to work it under the rubber.
Having the right solution and plenty of it will help slide it around. Once it's under the rubber start with the squeegee at the center and work the solution out.
Trim as needed. I usually get all the solution out and take a very sharp exacto razor and zip it around the edge of the window with the blade facing up, body of the razor facing more toward the window. This way it leaves a angled edge that won't peel yet comes to the edge of the window.
You may have some cone shaped bubbles at the bottom that won't go away. If so try with the drivers license or similiar the next day, and the next, once the solution comes out you will be able to squeegee those bubbles away.
AND for buying tint. I get the best at the auto parts store but be sure whats in the box is what belongs in the box. I once bought some that one box was good but someone swapped the expensive stuff in a cheap box. So I had the cheap crap in the expensive box and two different shades on the car. Make sure the box is taped or there is an ID sticker on the tint roll that matches the box.
To do the side windows on an f-body you need two 2' x 6.5' rolls. (thats a common size, a good bit of it gets thrown away)
What I do with f-bodies is clean the inside and outside of the window area real good.
Use tape or just the solution to stick it on the outside of the window making sure the part you peel off is facing you. Place it so there will be approx 1/2" below the bottom weather strip.
Then open the door and cut it around the window, be careful not to cut the rubber on the bottom (maybe a strip of duct tape on top of the door rubber would help)
Leave it there, reclean the inside and leave it soaked down, then peel off the clear part while spraying the adhesive, be careful to not let it crease or it'll leave a line that will not come out.
So now you should have the cutout on the outside of the window soaked with solution, adhesive side out, inside of the window wet, door open. Take it off the outside and put it on the inside.
It's a pain getting it under the rubber so if you feel like taking the door panel off earlier it would be way way easier. Otherwise use a drivers license to work it under the rubber.
Having the right solution and plenty of it will help slide it around. Once it's under the rubber start with the squeegee at the center and work the solution out.
Trim as needed. I usually get all the solution out and take a very sharp exacto razor and zip it around the edge of the window with the blade facing up, body of the razor facing more toward the window. This way it leaves a angled edge that won't peel yet comes to the edge of the window.
You may have some cone shaped bubbles at the bottom that won't go away. If so try with the drivers license or similiar the next day, and the next, once the solution comes out you will be able to squeegee those bubbles away.
AND for buying tint. I get the best at the auto parts store but be sure whats in the box is what belongs in the box. I once bought some that one box was good but someone swapped the expensive stuff in a cheap box. So I had the cheap crap in the expensive box and two different shades on the car. Make sure the box is taped or there is an ID sticker on the tint roll that matches the box.
To do the side windows on an f-body you need two 2' x 6.5' rolls. (thats a common size, a good bit of it gets thrown away)
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2008
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200.00 is about right for tinting that car at a reputable shop with good quality film, like llumar or the like. It's about what my car cost. But keep in mind that about 150.00 of that is the back glass, so if you go to all the trouble to do your rollups and have a shop do the back, you're only saving yourself 50.00 minus the cost of the supplies you buy. Plus the tint shop's film will be better than anything you can buy at autozone and it won't match your rollups. I'd call around and get quotes to just do the back before I went this route. It may not be worth it....
Also, when you call about that back glass, two questions to ask:
How well can you tint around the dot matrix at the top?
Can you tint it in one piece or will you seam it?
A good tinter should be able to get most of the dot matrix hidden and tint that hatch glass in one piece without a seam.
Also, when you call about that back glass, two questions to ask:
How well can you tint around the dot matrix at the top?
Can you tint it in one piece or will you seam it?
A good tinter should be able to get most of the dot matrix hidden and tint that hatch glass in one piece without a seam.
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200.00 is about right for tinting that car at a reputable shop with good quality film, like llumar or the like. It's about what my car cost. But keep in mind that about 150.00 of that is the back glass, so if you go to all the trouble to do your rollups and have a shop do the back, you're only saving yourself 50.00 minus the cost of the supplies you buy. Plus the tint shop's film will be better than anything you can buy at autozone and it won't match your rollups. I'd call around and get quotes to just do the back before I went this route. It may not be worth it....
Also, when you call about that back glass, two questions to ask:
How well can you tint around the dot matrix at the top?
Can you tint it in one piece or will you seam it?
A good tinter should be able to get most of the dot matrix hidden and tint that hatch glass in one piece without a seam.
Also, when you call about that back glass, two questions to ask:
How well can you tint around the dot matrix at the top?
Can you tint it in one piece or will you seam it?
A good tinter should be able to get most of the dot matrix hidden and tint that hatch glass in one piece without a seam.
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Verdad Gallardo Banned
Joined: Nov 2008
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How well can you tint around the dot matrix at the top?
FYI, I did my sides twice because it failed inspection in Texas. I peeled it off, passed, tinted again next day.
I was in FL before, and I'm back now. 5% on the sides, 20% on the back, no problems.
My dot matrix is covered with what looks like black vinyl sticker material, the rest is tinted one piece. It was like this when I got it.
FYI, I did my sides twice because it failed inspection in Texas. I peeled it off, passed, tinted again next day.
I was in FL before, and I'm back now. 5% on the sides, 20% on the back, no problems.
FYI, I did my sides twice because it failed inspection in Texas. I peeled it off, passed, tinted again next day.
I was in FL before, and I'm back now. 5% on the sides, 20% on the back, no problems.
, can you see where your going at night lol, damn thats dark, & the cops don't bother you?? 
It is actually quite easy as long as you have some patience and just make sure things are clean and that you DON'T WRINKLE THE TINT (can get out a normal bubble, but not a wrinkle/crease).
Big tip for professional appearance: to get a nice and consistent perimeter, I have always taken an exacto-knife and taped it to a pen, but make sure the pen sticks out an inch or so further than the blade. That way you can run the pen along the perimeter of the window and the offset between the pen and the knife blade will make sure your tint is consistently a few millimeters in from the edge of the window. Works great. If you have a corner that is hard to get with this method, cut what you can with the knife/pen and then go back and use a coin as a template to make a nice round on the corner.
I have tinted a dozen cars or so and this ALWAYS works great!
Big tip for professional appearance: to get a nice and consistent perimeter, I have always taken an exacto-knife and taped it to a pen, but make sure the pen sticks out an inch or so further than the blade. That way you can run the pen along the perimeter of the window and the offset between the pen and the knife blade will make sure your tint is consistently a few millimeters in from the edge of the window. Works great. If you have a corner that is hard to get with this method, cut what you can with the knife/pen and then go back and use a coin as a template to make a nice round on the corner.
I have tinted a dozen cars or so and this ALWAYS works great!
It is actually quite easy as long as you have some patience and just make sure things are clean and that you DON'T WRINKLE THE TINT (can get out a normal bubble, but not a wrinkle/crease).
Big tip for professional appearance: to get a nice and consistent perimeter, I have always taken an exacto-knife and taped it to a pen, but make sure the pen sticks out an inch or so further than the blade. That way you can run the pen along the perimeter of the window and the offset between the pen and the knife blade will make sure your tint is consistently a few millimeters in from the edge of the window. Works great. If you have a corner that is hard to get with this method, cut what you can with the knife/pen and then go back and use a coin as a template to make a nice round on the corner.
I have tinted a dozen cars or so and this ALWAYS works great!
Big tip for professional appearance: to get a nice and consistent perimeter, I have always taken an exacto-knife and taped it to a pen, but make sure the pen sticks out an inch or so further than the blade. That way you can run the pen along the perimeter of the window and the offset between the pen and the knife blade will make sure your tint is consistently a few millimeters in from the edge of the window. Works great. If you have a corner that is hard to get with this method, cut what you can with the knife/pen and then go back and use a coin as a template to make a nice round on the corner.
I have tinted a dozen cars or so and this ALWAYS works great!
Banned
Joined: Nov 2008
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As far as seeing, I'll hit the power window if in doubt. But with 5% and rain at night, I do get nervous.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 107
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From: Kentucky
Both my camaros have 5% tint.. great quality, Lifetime warranty, one piece rear glass 8 inch front strip on my z, 12 inch from strip on my ss.. both jobs done professionally.. tint job on my ss costed 120 bucks. my z had a tint job already on it that some guy mucked up so I had it removed and new tint applied for 150 bucks. No one really enforces the tint laws around here. I'm in KY.
Honestly, I dont know much about tinting but I have a friend that done it as a hobby. He said it's pretty complicated at first (considering he learned everything on his own) but from watching him do it now.. it seems easy.
It would probably be with a shot to try.. but I would try to find somthing a little easier to start out on and start from there. Maybe if you have any old windows, old glass, or anything laying around you could take a trial run on.
Hope this helps.
Honestly, I dont know much about tinting but I have a friend that done it as a hobby. He said it's pretty complicated at first (considering he learned everything on his own) but from watching him do it now.. it seems easy.
It would probably be with a shot to try.. but I would try to find somthing a little easier to start out on and start from there. Maybe if you have any old windows, old glass, or anything laying around you could take a trial run on.
Hope this helps.