PCV "Y" and system on ls14thgens/c5ls1vettes
02-17-2009, 09:35 PM
#1
PCV "Y" and system on ls14thgens/c5ls1vettes Alright this thread is for the people willing to venture way back behind the manifold to the little rubber y that rots away.
this one
anyways gm was nice enough to offer only the whole pcv system for around $120 or other places for 62.71;D. Now it is a good idea to keep your pcv system working properly, so its best to replace it. You have 3 options to do this.
1. Buy the whole replacement part from gm or whomever.
2. Convert to a ls6 style pcv system which is more efficient and cost under $100, but you will have to grind into your block in order to fit the new valley cover
or option
3. This is the really broke and lazy way i came up with until i do a ls6 valley/head/manifold swap. Buy a 3/8 divider such as this one http://cgi.ebay.com/John-Guest-PI231...efaultDomain_0
or from anywhere the john guest one is nice quality (PI2312S). And about 6" piece of 3/8 inside diameter rubber hose rated for oil/fuel.
alright since theres already threads on how to do 1 and 2 ill show all you broke guys how to do fix you pcv system for about $7.
Step
1. Buy the 3/8 divider make sure all 3 sides are 3/8". Buy a 6" piece of hose (fuel/oil rated)
2. Take off your old pcv system, this is difficult because fbodys have them under the windshield. You may have to take off a couple brackets such as the egr manifold bracket and make sure to take off the 10mm bolt that hold the actual pcv valve bracket to the top of the coolant crossover pipe.
3. Once you remove this you will notice the y on the back is broken or torn. To make easier to work with, i suggest pulling the pipes apart and clean everything.
4. Now you want to cut a small bit off of the vinyl pipes that plug into the y. Theres two notches, you want to but the first one off
to this
5. Plug the vinyl tubes into the y like they were originally set up like this
6. Replace rubber connector here
7. Put all back together and enjoy it not breaking you wallet.
Yes i know this is cheap and cheesy but it works long enough to get parts for head cam swap
this one
anyways gm was nice enough to offer only the whole pcv system for around $120 or other places for 62.71;D. Now it is a good idea to keep your pcv system working properly, so its best to replace it. You have 3 options to do this.
1. Buy the whole replacement part from gm or whomever.
2. Convert to a ls6 style pcv system which is more efficient and cost under $100, but you will have to grind into your block in order to fit the new valley cover
or option
3. This is the really broke and lazy way i came up with until i do a ls6 valley/head/manifold swap. Buy a 3/8 divider such as this one http://cgi.ebay.com/John-Guest-PI231...efaultDomain_0
or from anywhere the john guest one is nice quality (PI2312S). And about 6" piece of 3/8 inside diameter rubber hose rated for oil/fuel.
alright since theres already threads on how to do 1 and 2 ill show all you broke guys how to do fix you pcv system for about $7.
Step
1. Buy the 3/8 divider make sure all 3 sides are 3/8". Buy a 6" piece of hose (fuel/oil rated)
2. Take off your old pcv system, this is difficult because fbodys have them under the windshield. You may have to take off a couple brackets such as the egr manifold bracket and make sure to take off the 10mm bolt that hold the actual pcv valve bracket to the top of the coolant crossover pipe.
3. Once you remove this you will notice the y on the back is broken or torn. To make easier to work with, i suggest pulling the pipes apart and clean everything.
4. Now you want to cut a small bit off of the vinyl pipes that plug into the y. Theres two notches, you want to but the first one off
to this
5. Plug the vinyl tubes into the y like they were originally set up like this
6. Replace rubber connector here
7. Put all back together and enjoy it not breaking you wallet.
Yes i know this is cheap and cheesy but it works long enough to get parts for head cam swap 
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01-12-2013, 04:17 PM
#8
i'm bumping this old thread because the same thing happened to my 99 (110k miles). my car spends most of the time in a garage too. based on how this thing rotted away, it should probably be considered a maintenance item for any 4th gen that uses this part.
mine didn't tear completely apart, but it was half way there with a gaping hole that had oil/dirt hanging out of it.
symptoms only showed themselves when engine was running: smell of oil as if you had the oil cap off with the engine running. what got my attention was when i saw a light amount of smoke which was barely noticeable coming from under the side of the hood. with the engine running, i popped the hood and saw the smoke coming from behind the intake.
this part failure also lets unmetered air in. after fixing it, butt dyno tells me this was costing me some power.
mine didn't tear completely apart, but it was half way there with a gaping hole that had oil/dirt hanging out of it.
symptoms only showed themselves when engine was running: smell of oil as if you had the oil cap off with the engine running. what got my attention was when i saw a light amount of smoke which was barely noticeable coming from under the side of the hood. with the engine running, i popped the hood and saw the smoke coming from behind the intake.
this part failure also lets unmetered air in. after fixing it, butt dyno tells me this was costing me some power.
11-03-2014, 05:33 PM
#18
IMO, I'd would just cap the passenger side rear port and use a short length of 3/8" oil/fuel line hose to re-connect the driver side dirty outlet to the passenger side pcv valve/intake manifold inlet. Furthermore if you have been considering buying a LS6 valley cover, put that money to better use and buy a quality catch-can instead.
