Tint remover.......we have a winner.....
10-15-2015, 09:26 AM
#81
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Just for the record The tint on my RAV4 had two clear films that came off individually before I reached the blue stuff. The stripper I used is this one...Strip Clean (hopefully there's a picture accompanying this post)
10-15-2015, 10:53 AM
#82
Its great for WS6 wheels too. When the factory clear coat gets all old and nasty....spray it on and let it sit. It eats all the clear coat off and you have brand new looking polished aluminum wheels to start with.
But....you MUST pop the "WS6" center caps off first or they will get all dissolved......
.
10-18-2015, 06:24 PM
#83
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Hey LS6427
Here's what I tried using a steamer and distilled water, no methylene chloride to deal with. Also took all the glue completely off
posted this over at Appearance and Detailing...
The worst possible scenario:
tint was put on car in Houston TX around 1998
car spent 1998-2008 in TX and LA mostly roasting outside in the sun
top layer of tint delaminated was peeled off
now in 2015: only base film and glue left on rear defroster wires and glass
The fix:
ConAir Extreme Steam clothes steamer (1110 Watt, $34.99 at Walmart)
---don't try to cheap out, earlier I tried a 675 W steamer. didn't generate enough heat/did not work
Dobie Scotch brite dish scrubber -WHITE and yellow! don't use green scrubbers -too harsh
Walmart distilled water -no tap water it will clog your steamer
The process
-fill water tank on steamer with distilled water
turn on to high heat
wait for green light to come on
--not sure but may be better if you are close to an outlet versus using a 100 ft ext cord due to voltage drop?
hold steamer nozzle real close to tint blast it for 10-20 secs , then scrub in the direction of the wires, after about 10 secs of scrubbing the film and glue come off! onto the scrub pad
Slow going - 33 square inches took me 10 minutes(I was also being cautious). translate that to the whole rear hatch, that's about a 3.3 hour job. No wonder shops won't do it or charge a lot.
I checked the defroster grid with and ohm meter before/after - was 0.1 ohms so I didn't mess up any wires, even though I went all the way across one 1 inch wide section of the back glass from top to bottom. Don't scrub on the wires any more than you have to, I went horizontally BETWEEN the wires section by section then real gently right at the edge of each wire, of course I was doing light scrubbing that actually touched each wire.
Take your time do this over a few days or it is pretty tiring.
--solvents like acetone MEK, etc don't dissolve the film - it is a polyester Mylar type,
--the trash bag /ammonia method did not work for me, due to the lack of top film /already peeled off
--I was leery of using a paint strip heat gun, too much bone dry heat and the moisture using the steamer may be helped to soften the ancient glue
--new glass from Safelite was quoted at $474.
Good luck
Mike
Here's what I tried using a steamer and distilled water, no methylene chloride to deal with. Also took all the glue completely off
posted this over at Appearance and Detailing...
The worst possible scenario:
tint was put on car in Houston TX around 1998
car spent 1998-2008 in TX and LA mostly roasting outside in the sun
top layer of tint delaminated was peeled off
now in 2015: only base film and glue left on rear defroster wires and glass
The fix:
ConAir Extreme Steam clothes steamer (1110 Watt, $34.99 at Walmart)
---don't try to cheap out, earlier I tried a 675 W steamer. didn't generate enough heat/did not work
Dobie Scotch brite dish scrubber -WHITE and yellow! don't use green scrubbers -too harsh
Walmart distilled water -no tap water it will clog your steamer
The process
-fill water tank on steamer with distilled water
turn on to high heat
wait for green light to come on
--not sure but may be better if you are close to an outlet versus using a 100 ft ext cord due to voltage drop?
hold steamer nozzle real close to tint blast it for 10-20 secs , then scrub in the direction of the wires, after about 10 secs of scrubbing the film and glue come off! onto the scrub pad
Slow going - 33 square inches took me 10 minutes(I was also being cautious). translate that to the whole rear hatch, that's about a 3.3 hour job. No wonder shops won't do it or charge a lot.
I checked the defroster grid with and ohm meter before/after - was 0.1 ohms so I didn't mess up any wires, even though I went all the way across one 1 inch wide section of the back glass from top to bottom. Don't scrub on the wires any more than you have to, I went horizontally BETWEEN the wires section by section then real gently right at the edge of each wire, of course I was doing light scrubbing that actually touched each wire.
Take your time do this over a few days or it is pretty tiring.
--solvents like acetone MEK, etc don't dissolve the film - it is a polyester Mylar type,
--the trash bag /ammonia method did not work for me, due to the lack of top film /already peeled off
--I was leery of using a paint strip heat gun, too much bone dry heat and the moisture using the steamer may be helped to soften the ancient glue
--new glass from Safelite was quoted at $474.
Good luck
Mike
10-20-2015, 02:39 PM
#84
Hey LS6427
Here's what I tried using a steamer and distilled water, no methylene chloride to deal with. Also took all the glue completely off
posted this over at Appearance and Detailing...
The worst possible scenario:
tint was put on car in Houston TX around 1998
car spent 1998-2008 in TX and LA mostly roasting outside in the sun
top layer of tint delaminated was peeled off
now in 2015: only base film and glue left on rear defroster wires and glass
The fix:
ConAir Extreme Steam clothes steamer (1110 Watt, $34.99 at Walmart)
---don't try to cheap out, earlier I tried a 675 W steamer. didn't generate enough heat/did not work
Dobie Scotch brite dish scrubber -WHITE and yellow! don't use green scrubbers -too harsh
Walmart distilled water -no tap water it will clog your steamer
The process
-fill water tank on steamer with distilled water
turn on to high heat
wait for green light to come on
--not sure but may be better if you are close to an outlet versus using a 100 ft ext cord due to voltage drop?
hold steamer nozzle real close to tint blast it for 10-20 secs , then scrub in the direction of the wires, after about 10 secs of scrubbing the film and glue come off! onto the scrub pad
Slow going - 33 square inches took me 10 minutes(I was also being cautious). translate that to the whole rear hatch, that's about a 3.3 hour job. No wonder shops won't do it or charge a lot.
I checked the defroster grid with and ohm meter before/after - was 0.1 ohms so I didn't mess up any wires, even though I went all the way across one 1 inch wide section of the back glass from top to bottom. Don't scrub on the wires any more than you have to, I went horizontally BETWEEN the wires section by section then real gently right at the edge of each wire, of course I was doing light scrubbing that actually touched each wire.
Take your time do this over a few days or it is pretty tiring.
--solvents like acetone MEK, etc don't dissolve the film - it is a polyester Mylar type,
--the trash bag /ammonia method did not work for me, due to the lack of top film /already peeled off
--I was leery of using a paint strip heat gun, too much bone dry heat and the moisture using the steamer may be helped to soften the ancient glue
--new glass from Safelite was quoted at $474.
Good luck
Mike
Here's what I tried using a steamer and distilled water, no methylene chloride to deal with. Also took all the glue completely off
posted this over at Appearance and Detailing...
The worst possible scenario:
tint was put on car in Houston TX around 1998
car spent 1998-2008 in TX and LA mostly roasting outside in the sun
top layer of tint delaminated was peeled off
now in 2015: only base film and glue left on rear defroster wires and glass
The fix:
ConAir Extreme Steam clothes steamer (1110 Watt, $34.99 at Walmart)
---don't try to cheap out, earlier I tried a 675 W steamer. didn't generate enough heat/did not work
Dobie Scotch brite dish scrubber -WHITE and yellow! don't use green scrubbers -too harsh
Walmart distilled water -no tap water it will clog your steamer
The process
-fill water tank on steamer with distilled water
turn on to high heat
wait for green light to come on
--not sure but may be better if you are close to an outlet versus using a 100 ft ext cord due to voltage drop?
hold steamer nozzle real close to tint blast it for 10-20 secs , then scrub in the direction of the wires, after about 10 secs of scrubbing the film and glue come off! onto the scrub pad
Slow going - 33 square inches took me 10 minutes(I was also being cautious). translate that to the whole rear hatch, that's about a 3.3 hour job. No wonder shops won't do it or charge a lot.
I checked the defroster grid with and ohm meter before/after - was 0.1 ohms so I didn't mess up any wires, even though I went all the way across one 1 inch wide section of the back glass from top to bottom. Don't scrub on the wires any more than you have to, I went horizontally BETWEEN the wires section by section then real gently right at the edge of each wire, of course I was doing light scrubbing that actually touched each wire.
Take your time do this over a few days or it is pretty tiring.
--solvents like acetone MEK, etc don't dissolve the film - it is a polyester Mylar type,
--the trash bag /ammonia method did not work for me, due to the lack of top film /already peeled off
--I was leery of using a paint strip heat gun, too much bone dry heat and the moisture using the steamer may be helped to soften the ancient glue
--new glass from Safelite was quoted at $474.
Good luck
Mike
The paint stripper..........its effortless. No work except to dab it on lightly and walk away for 10 minutes. Then come back and pick up the pieces that fell off. Then dab again in another spot.
.
05-27-2018, 01:38 PM
#85
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I stumbled upon this thread after trying to remove my 10+ year old bubbled, baked-on, looking like c**p, rear glass tint. I had initially tried using a cheap clothing steamer from Walmart but switched to a 1200 watt Heat Gun. Succeeded in getting what I believed was the first layer of tint off with a baked-on, murky, rock-hard layer remaining.
Tried a lot of things to try get that c**p off. Black trash bag with Ammonia in the sun, Goof Off, Acetone, Lacquer Thinner, Paint Remover, Jellied Paint Remover, even the OP's Aircraft Paint Remover from Pep Boys - nothing would touch it. I swear, it was like going up against an Abrams Tank while armed with a BB gun!
Gave YouTube one last shot and found a video (linked below) where a guy swore by using a Copper Scotch-Brite pot scrubber with Ammonia. Figured if it ruined the defroster lines, I'd at least be able to see out the window until I could afford to replace it. Started out with Ammonia from Home Depot with limited success. Got interrupted by a call from my Niece who said she had used Citrus-based Goo Gone in the past to remove tint adhesive from her rear glass. Switched over to the Goo Gone in a pump spray bottle and it was much more effective than Ammonia and much less toxic too.
It took me a couple of hours and a lot of elbow grease but I got nearly all of it off except still have to finish the last 4-5 inches at the bottom of the window which is the hardest part to reach. I tested my rear defroster lines the other day with the rear glass fogged-up by a overnight rainstorm and they functioned perfectly with no damage to the defroster/antenna lines or scratching of the glass from the process!
Tried a lot of things to try get that c**p off. Black trash bag with Ammonia in the sun, Goof Off, Acetone, Lacquer Thinner, Paint Remover, Jellied Paint Remover, even the OP's Aircraft Paint Remover from Pep Boys - nothing would touch it. I swear, it was like going up against an Abrams Tank while armed with a BB gun!
Gave YouTube one last shot and found a video (linked below) where a guy swore by using a Copper Scotch-Brite pot scrubber with Ammonia. Figured if it ruined the defroster lines, I'd at least be able to see out the window until I could afford to replace it. Started out with Ammonia from Home Depot with limited success. Got interrupted by a call from my Niece who said she had used Citrus-based Goo Gone in the past to remove tint adhesive from her rear glass. Switched over to the Goo Gone in a pump spray bottle and it was much more effective than Ammonia and much less toxic too.
It took me a couple of hours and a lot of elbow grease but I got nearly all of it off except still have to finish the last 4-5 inches at the bottom of the window which is the hardest part to reach. I tested my rear defroster lines the other day with the rear glass fogged-up by a overnight rainstorm and they functioned perfectly with no damage to the defroster/antenna lines or scratching of the glass from the process!
Last edited by Norcal707; 05-27-2018 at 01:46 PM.
06-01-2018, 04:05 PM
#88
I stumbled upon this thread after trying to remove my 10+ year old bubbled, baked-on, looking like c**p, rear glass tint. I had initially tried using a cheap clothing steamer from Walmart but switched to a 1200 watt Heat Gun. Succeeded in getting what I believed was the first layer of tint off with a baked-on, murky, rock-hard layer remaining.
Tried a lot of things to try get that c**p off. Black trash bag with Ammonia in the sun, Goof Off, Acetone, Lacquer Thinner, Paint Remover, Jellied Paint Remover, even the OP's Aircraft Paint Remover from Pep Boys - nothing would touch it. I swear, it was like going up against an Abrams Tank while armed with a BB gun!
Gave YouTube one last shot and found a video (linked below) where a guy swore by using a Copper Scotch-Brite pot scrubber with Ammonia. Figured if it ruined the defroster lines, I'd at least be able to see out the window until I could afford to replace it. Started out with Ammonia from Home Depot with limited success. Got interrupted by a call from my Niece who said she had used Citrus-based Goo Gone in the past to remove tint adhesive from her rear glass. Switched over to the Goo Gone in a pump spray bottle and it was much more effective than Ammonia and much less toxic too.
It took me a couple of hours and a lot of elbow grease but I got nearly all of it off except still have to finish the last 4-5 inches at the bottom of the window which is the hardest part to reach. I tested my rear defroster lines the other day with the rear glass fogged-up by a overnight rainstorm and they functioned perfectly with no damage to the defroster/antenna lines or scratching of the glass from the process!
https://youtu.be/PFNmk0DW-70
Tried a lot of things to try get that c**p off. Black trash bag with Ammonia in the sun, Goof Off, Acetone, Lacquer Thinner, Paint Remover, Jellied Paint Remover, even the OP's Aircraft Paint Remover from Pep Boys - nothing would touch it. I swear, it was like going up against an Abrams Tank while armed with a BB gun!
Gave YouTube one last shot and found a video (linked below) where a guy swore by using a Copper Scotch-Brite pot scrubber with Ammonia. Figured if it ruined the defroster lines, I'd at least be able to see out the window until I could afford to replace it. Started out with Ammonia from Home Depot with limited success. Got interrupted by a call from my Niece who said she had used Citrus-based Goo Gone in the past to remove tint adhesive from her rear glass. Switched over to the Goo Gone in a pump spray bottle and it was much more effective than Ammonia and much less toxic too.
It took me a couple of hours and a lot of elbow grease but I got nearly all of it off except still have to finish the last 4-5 inches at the bottom of the window which is the hardest part to reach. I tested my rear defroster lines the other day with the rear glass fogged-up by a overnight rainstorm and they functioned perfectly with no damage to the defroster/antenna lines or scratching of the glass from the process!
https://youtu.be/PFNmk0DW-70
There's nothing easier than Aircraft Paint Stripper. Dab in on......walk away and go watch TV......come back a little later and the tint is hanging off or it fell off.
.
06-01-2018, 04:45 PM
#89
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Yep - I tried that exact product, let it sit for a minute or so and my baked-on layer of glue/adhesive basically laughed at it. Perhaps if I had found this thread and tried it before removing the tint layer, it might've worked. Another possibility is maybe the neutered, watered-down, people-safe product sold here in Kalifornistan might not be the same as what you folks in Free America can get, hence my poor results.
06-01-2018, 05:01 PM
#90
Yep - I tried that exact product, let it sit for a minute or so and my baked-on layer of glue/adhesive basically laughed at it. Perhaps if I had found this thread and tried it before removing the tint layer, it might've worked. Another possibility is maybe the neutered, watered-down, people-safe product sold here in Kalifornistan might not be the same as what you folks in Free America can get, hence my poor results.
Thats strange it did not work on yours. It works for every I've told about it.....they had the same results. Shops around Lauderdale use it too.
Maybe you can order it from Amazon.
And you cannot let it sit for only one minute. You must let it sit for 15-20 minutes. Then it falls off.....
.
06-01-2018, 05:10 PM
#91
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06-16-2018, 07:34 AM
#93
TECH Veteran
Do you think it will remove purple tint ? Or is purple tint harder to remove?
The tint on my 97 454 pick up have turned purple.... I just picked the truck up first of the year do I can't tell you how old the tint is on the truck.
The tint on my 97 454 pick up have turned purple.... I just picked the truck up first of the year do I can't tell you how old the tint is on the truck.
06-17-2018, 02:12 PM
#94
Cover your interior real good......it'll eat everything if it sits on it too long.
If you can peel the top layer off first it will definitely take off the glue layer afterwards.
.
Last edited by LS6427; 06-17-2018 at 02:18 PM.
07-06-2018, 02:56 PM
#95
Guess I have been fortunate with my tint removal projects, after the first layer is off, the glue that is left came off with Dawn dishwashing soap
diluted in a spray bottle and razor blade, and just recently one of the guys came in the shop and his tint was peeling, he just wanted it off so he could see
no Dawn so I just grabbed the bottle of window cleaner we had, can't remember what brand Armor All I think, finished peeling and squirted with the cleaner
and it razored right off. Maybe the tint I was removing was different I don't know.
diluted in a spray bottle and razor blade, and just recently one of the guys came in the shop and his tint was peeling, he just wanted it off so he could see
no Dawn so I just grabbed the bottle of window cleaner we had, can't remember what brand Armor All I think, finished peeling and squirted with the cleaner
and it razored right off. Maybe the tint I was removing was different I don't know.
