problem starting car...
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 466
Likes: 1
From: Bay area, Ca
help!!!problem starting car... i have a 98z28 with 71k and recently started having problems starting the car. it usally takes 3-4 times turning the key for the car to actually start.. it sounds like it about to start just doesnt turn over.. i thought it was my battery so i replaced the original and put a fresh battery in and still having the same problem.. also today i found that my new batery was dead so replaced that also.. what are the signs of a bad starter or alternater?
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 834
Likes: 0
From: Marysville, OH
Originally Posted by Eiyse98ls1
i have a 98z28 with 71k and recently started having problems starting the car. it usally takes 3-4 times turning the key for the car to actually start.. it sounds like it about to start just doesnt turn over.. i thought it was my battery so i replaced the original and put a fresh battery in and still having the same problem.. also today i found that my new batery was dead so replaced that also.. what are the signs of a bad starter or alternater?
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
11 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,311
Likes: 2
From: loudoun county,va
thats a good way to have 600+ amps pump through your body!!!!
please dont touch the battery wires while the car is running you wanna find out its simple take it to your local advanced auto they will test your charging system for free....if it dont work they will tell you... you could have a grounding issue... not the first time i heard someone try to chase one dow....
please dont touch the battery wires while the car is running you wanna find out its simple take it to your local advanced auto they will test your charging system for free....if it dont work they will tell you... you could have a grounding issue... not the first time i heard someone try to chase one dow....
Do not diconnect the battery ever to test an alternator.
The battery is the sponge for the PCM & absorbs voltage spikes that occur normally in alternators.
Without the battery the PCM will take the grunt of the spikes , whick will be high when PCM controlled alternator charging circuit is open ended by disconnecting the battery.
Dont ever disconnect the battery w/key on .
Some people wonder why their PCM's take a dive???
Back to your car ,was the volt gauge normal??
Is it cranking at all/slow?
If it is going dead just sitting that would suggest a paristic draw.
Have you added any electric item latley?
Alternators themselfs have also been known to go bad & cause a draw.
All these things must be tested, properly.
The battery is the sponge for the PCM & absorbs voltage spikes that occur normally in alternators.
Without the battery the PCM will take the grunt of the spikes , whick will be high when PCM controlled alternator charging circuit is open ended by disconnecting the battery.
Dont ever disconnect the battery w/key on .
Some people wonder why their PCM's take a dive???
Back to your car ,was the volt gauge normal??
Is it cranking at all/slow?
If it is going dead just sitting that would suggest a paristic draw.
Have you added any electric item latley?
Alternators themselfs have also been known to go bad & cause a draw.
All these things must be tested, properly.
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 466
Likes: 1
From: Bay area, Ca
Originally Posted by wrencher
Do not diconnect the battery ever to test an alternator.
The battery is the sponge for the PCM & absorbs voltage spikes that occur normally in alternators.
Without the battery the PCM will take the grunt of the spikes , whick will be high when PCM controlled alternator charging circuit is open ended by disconnecting the battery.
Dont ever disconnect the battery w/key on .
Some people wonder why their PCM's take a dive???
Back to your car ,was the volt gauge normal??
Is it cranking at all/slow?
If it is going dead just sitting that would suggest a paristic draw.
Have you added any electric item latley?
Alternators themselfs have also been known to go bad & cause a draw.
All these things must be tested, properly.
The battery is the sponge for the PCM & absorbs voltage spikes that occur normally in alternators.
Without the battery the PCM will take the grunt of the spikes , whick will be high when PCM controlled alternator charging circuit is open ended by disconnecting the battery.
Dont ever disconnect the battery w/key on .
Some people wonder why their PCM's take a dive???
Back to your car ,was the volt gauge normal??
Is it cranking at all/slow?
If it is going dead just sitting that would suggest a paristic draw.
Have you added any electric item latley?
Alternators themselfs have also been known to go bad & cause a draw.
All these things must be tested, properly.
thanks for all the comments keep them coming..
Last edited by Eiyse98ls1; Oct 26, 2003 at 01:57 PM.
Well if it is cranking & at a good speed (i.e. 400 rpm)
then there must be something else wrong.
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?
Has the fuel filter been changed every 30 k?
Maybe cycle the key on/off a few & then crank it see if it helps.
then there must be something else wrong.
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?
Has the fuel filter been changed every 30 k?
Maybe cycle the key on/off a few & then crank it see if it helps.
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 466
Likes: 1
From: Bay area, Ca
Originally Posted by wrencher
Well if it is cranking & at a good speed (i.e. 400 rpm)
then there must be something else wrong.
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?
Has the fuel filter been changed every 30 k?
Maybe cycle the key on/off a few & then crank it see if it helps.
then there must be something else wrong.
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?
Has the fuel filter been changed every 30 k?
Maybe cycle the key on/off a few & then crank it see if it helps.
thanks agian
Trending Topics
check your cables pos. and neg. make sure they are good and tight to the terminals.usually if its alt.problem or going dead on you your gauge would read 13 or lower or below.just happened on my 98z.it was below those reading even going to the red sometimes and it finally died on me also checked it before with a handheld batt. alt. tester and sure is it was the alt.was using also the optima red top battery which was o.k replaced it with new one and back on the road.hope you get the fix.good luck.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo If it is cranking/turning over well , then it must be lacking something to keep it from starting up.
Most likely fuel , spark or injector pulse.
It is prolly lacking 1 or more, you need to start testing .
Most likely fuel , spark or injector pulse.
It is prolly lacking 1 or more, you need to start testing .
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 466
Likes: 1
From: Bay area, Ca
sorry but im have no clue what to test...i am not really a mechanic. but i did call chevy today and found out it can also be my starter.. today also i had an even longer time starting the car it must of took me 15mins to get car started and about 15 or more times turning key before it started 2 seperate occasions.