BigPops0403

My car for the last 3 weeks has not been starting right. When you turn the ignition usually after its been sitting for a while, like overnight the car doesn't do anything. The battery is fine, and it has been taking longer and longer for the car to start now. When you turn the ignition nothing happens and then after about 5-10 min of that it will randomly start. Any Ideas?

Fifedogg

iTrader: (15)

Do you have corrosion on your Battery Terminals? You can use a little bit of Soda to eat away that corrosion if you do.

BigPops0403

No they are fine, all the dash lights turn on...

spy2520

iTrader: (3)

could be the starter. For a while mine was acting like this. Turned out actually to be a loose wire, but its possible the starter is riddled with bad spots. You should try tapping it with a hammer to see if it starts more predictably. If so, you need a starter. Check to see if the wires are loose also though.

bird2002

any updates, im having same problem

Darth Cypher

Does your Security light come on and stay on after you do start it up? Just curious since mine does that.

lovin myls1

iTrader: (4)

You can make a couple of simple electrical tests at the socket of the starter relay that will point out the culprit( ignition switch,relay, VATS,clutch position switch etc.). Do you have a voltmeter?

Darth Cypher

I have one somewhere but have to find it (moved a couple times).

lovin myls1

iTrader: (4)

Are you talking about a VOM? I was replying to the origanal poster(BigPops0403) whose car wont turn over.If yours starts then the tests won't tell you anything.

However, if there are times when the car won't turn over and the tests are made then,you could identify the cause.Do you have this problem?

Darth Cypher

It originally started out like that. It wouldn't turn over at all. Then I had it push started. Now it starts with the Security light constantly on.

lovin myls1

iTrader: (4)

Ok,gotcha.If I were you, I would bypass the VATS( you can do this without cutting any wires) and see if the security light stops.Could be the resistor in your key.If you have a spare key you never use, I would try that as it won't be as worn and see if that makes the light go out first.

Darth Cypher

Tried that before the push start, still did the same thing. Even replaced the Clutch Start Switch before the push start. Also did not fix it. I'm inspecting the wires right now to see if I see anything obvious.

lovin myls1

iTrader: (4)

Clutch switch won't make the security light go on.I'm thinking either the resistance of the key is not correct at the BCM or the BCM is at fault. I would measure resistance of the key, them measure at the plug at the botton of the steering column and also at the plug (harness connector) C3 at the BCM. Resistance should be within 5 ohms of the key measurement. If its not at the plug at the steering column then lock cylinder is bad.If its good there but not at the BCM plug then you have a bad wire.If it's good al the way to the BCM,well then, I'd be thinking BCM.

Darth Cypher

Yeah, I changed the switch before the push start (when I thought it was a starter problem before I figured out it was a security problem). I've torn down to the lock plate right now and just got the compression tool for it. Hopefully soon, I'll be able to check the wires.

I know the key is good because I tried the spare before and it was still broke but I'll check them both out just for ***** and grins. Thanks for the info.

lovin myls1

iTrader: (4)

I'm not sure what you mean by "lock plate" or what tool you are referring to but good luck and let us know what you find.

Darth Cypher

You pull the steering wheel and behind that is the air bag coil. Once that is removed there is a black lock plate that I have to compress to get to it's retaining ring so I can remove it and get access to the turn signal lever and ignition cyclinder lock.

I ohmed out both of my keys and they both read 3.7. I'll look for those readings (+/- 5 ohms as you said) on the rest of the system. I hope it's just the ignition switch. Cylinder is easy to change, just don't want to have to get a key cut at GM dealership. Unless I only have to do that if the BCM is changed.

lovin myls1

iTrader: (4)

Use the 20K range on the meter because the key should be 3740 ohms. So if key shows3738 you should see 3732 to 3743 at the BCM-get it?
Why are you pulling the steering wheel apart? Not because the Ignition switch MAY be bad, right?

Darth Cypher

Before I found out what I did in this thread, yeah, I was getting to it to look at wires to see if there was anything obvious like a broken one. Still haven't gotten to shooting the wires yet. I work long *** shifts during the week fixing jet engines. Just not in the mood to mess with anything mechanical after I get home from work.

lovin myls1

iTrader: (4)

Hey,OK- get to when you can-let me know what you find.

Darth Cypher

Ok, sorry it's been a while. I got to see the wires to the Ignition Lock Cylinder. I see one wire where the coating is stripped (can't see too well to see if the wire is cut somewhat). I disconnected the orange wire that goes to the lock and tried to take a reading from there up to the lock. I got nothing.

I went to take a reading from the other side of the plug that goes into the BCM and whatever. I got several different readings. I had to put my voltmeter to the 200k and even 2M setting to get a number. It's way too high for what I got on my key.

So I'm kind of stumped. I tried this many times with the same results. I'm still thinking I should replace the Ignition Lock since it has that exposed wire. I just hope that is the fix and nothing is wrong elsewhere in the system.

If I have to replace the lock, will I have to get a chip with a different resistance or will the same resistance still work? I'm not sure where the resistance setting is set in the system (in the lock or BCM).