HELP! Car wont start
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Teching In
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Gaithersburg, MD
HELP! Car wont start My car for the last 3 weeks has not been starting right. When you turn the ignition usually after its been sitting for a while, like overnight the car doesn't do anything. The battery is fine, and it has been taking longer and longer for the car to start now. When you turn the ignition nothing happens and then after about 5-10 min of that it will randomly start. Any Ideas?
could be the starter. For a while mine was acting like this. Turned out actually to be a loose wire, but its possible the starter is riddled with bad spots. You should try tapping it with a hammer to see if it starts more predictably. If so, you need a starter. Check to see if the wires are loose also though.
You can make a couple of simple electrical tests at the socket of the starter relay that will point out the culprit( ignition switch,relay, VATS,clutch position switch etc.). Do you have a voltmeter?
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Verdad Gallardo Are you talking about a VOM? I was replying to the origanal poster(BigPops0403) whose car wont turn over.If yours starts then the tests won't tell you anything.
However, if there are times when the car won't turn over and the tests are made then,you could identify the cause.Do you have this problem?
However, if there are times when the car won't turn over and the tests are made then,you could identify the cause.Do you have this problem?
Ok,gotcha.If I were you, I would bypass the VATS( you can do this without cutting any wires) and see if the security light stops.Could be the resistor in your key.If you have a spare key you never use, I would try that as it won't be as worn and see if that makes the light go out first.
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Ok,gotcha.If I were you, I would bypass the VATS( you can do this without cutting any wires) and see if the security light stops.Could be the resistor in your key.If you have a spare key you never use, I would try that as it won't be as worn and see if that makes the light go out first.
Clutch switch won't make the security light go on.I'm thinking either the resistance of the key is not correct at the BCM or the BCM is at fault. I would measure resistance of the key, them measure at the plug at the botton of the steering column and also at the plug (harness connector) C3 at the BCM. Resistance should be within 5 ohms of the key measurement. If its not at the plug at the steering column then lock cylinder is bad.If its good there but not at the BCM plug then you have a bad wire.If it's good al the way to the BCM,well then, I'd be thinking BCM.
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Clutch switch won't make the security light go on.I'm thinking either the resistance of the key is not correct at the BCM or the BCM is at fault. I would measure resistance of the key, them measure at the plug at the botton of the steering column and also at the plug (harness connector) C3 at the BCM. Resistance should be within 5 ohms of the key measurement. If its not at the plug at the steering column then lock cylinder is bad.If its good there but not at the BCM plug then you have a bad wire.If it's good al the way to the BCM,well then, I'd be thinking BCM.
I know the key is good because I tried the spare before and it was still broke but I'll check them both out just for ***** and grins. Thanks for the info.
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I ohmed out both of my keys and they both read 3.7. I'll look for those readings (+/- 5 ohms as you said) on the rest of the system. I hope it's just the ignition switch. Cylinder is easy to change, just don't want to have to get a key cut at GM dealership. Unless I only have to do that if the BCM is changed.
Use the 20K range on the meter because the key should be 3740 ohms. So if key shows3738 you should see 3732 to 3743 at the BCM-get it?
Why are you pulling the steering wheel apart? Not because the Ignition switch MAY be bad, right?
Why are you pulling the steering wheel apart? Not because the Ignition switch MAY be bad, right?
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Before I found out what I did in this thread, yeah, I was getting to it to look at wires to see if there was anything obvious like a broken one. Still haven't gotten to shooting the wires yet. I work long *** shifts during the week fixing jet engines. Just not in the mood to mess with anything mechanical after I get home from work.
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Ok, sorry it's been a while. I got to see the wires to the Ignition Lock Cylinder. I see one wire where the coating is stripped (can't see too well to see if the wire is cut somewhat). I disconnected the orange wire that goes to the lock and tried to take a reading from there up to the lock. I got nothing.
I went to take a reading from the other side of the plug that goes into the BCM and whatever. I got several different readings. I had to put my voltmeter to the 200k and even 2M setting to get a number. It's way too high for what I got on my key.
So I'm kind of stumped. I tried this many times with the same results. I'm still thinking I should replace the Ignition Lock since it has that exposed wire. I just hope that is the fix and nothing is wrong elsewhere in the system.
If I have to replace the lock, will I have to get a chip with a different resistance or will the same resistance still work? I'm not sure where the resistance setting is set in the system (in the lock or BCM).
I went to take a reading from the other side of the plug that goes into the BCM and whatever. I got several different readings. I had to put my voltmeter to the 200k and even 2M setting to get a number. It's way too high for what I got on my key.
So I'm kind of stumped. I tried this many times with the same results. I'm still thinking I should replace the Ignition Lock since it has that exposed wire. I just hope that is the fix and nothing is wrong elsewhere in the system.
If I have to replace the lock, will I have to get a chip with a different resistance or will the same resistance still work? I'm not sure where the resistance setting is set in the system (in the lock or BCM).