LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Sweet.


T-Top leaks are another animal. Check the screws in all the corners. You'll see the screws. Sometimes they just come loose over time.

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

Guys, I can't tell you how frustrated I am in trying to repair this damn line. I can't tell you how many times I've tried to fix this ******* line. Ive went through at least 8 cans of refrigerant and at least 2 hoses. Just get it done right and buy a new line, I'm getting one from rockauto for 70$ shipped.

InfectiousGroov

For future reference guys, you can get power steering and AC high pressure lines rebuilt at hydraulic hoses and fittings shops. Yeah I didn't know they existed either until a buddy suggested one. I have a 300ZX Twin Turbo and the high pressure pwr steering hoses are notorious for leaking and are fairly expensive. The only option everybody thought was to get either a brand new one or the rebuilt $270 one where you have to ship back your core. Cost me $35 to fully rebuild mine. They're kinda long and split off in a Y. Got new rubber, restrictor, and crimps. Took them an hour to do it. They told me they do AC lines too and they're equipped to do some heavy duty commercial hydraulic stuff.

So find your local hydraulics and fittings rebuilder. Mine is Kim's in Ft. Worth.. Just an FYI.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

There's a place here called "Hydraline'. They said if its a low pressure A/C line regular clamps will work if I clamp the same area as the factory clamp covered. So I did it myself for $2.00 for two clamps. Holding beatifully.

But yes, in the future for high pressure stuff I'll definitely have them do it. Problem was with this line I fixed, they rewuired the line to be removed.....and that was the entire issue with me. Ain't no way I'm doing that ridiculous job, might as well just put a new line on in that case.

Clamping over those grooves in the metal end is the key to the hose staying on. The rubber bites into them.

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InfectiousGroov

I hear ya. Well over the years of working on many cars I never thought this was an option. I'm just glad to know there's one more area I can save money on, big time. In my case, $35 plus 1 hr vs almost $300 and shipping the core back which I was about to do. So just passing on the info cause I'm sure many people don't know this is available.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

That was my problem. It was such a seemingly easy thing to fix. But my god...just to get that broken line off the car and install a new one, the cheapest labor price I got from any shop was $260.....just for the labor. And that was a maybe from the cheapest shop, they said they never did one before. Thats nuts, I think the new line was well over $100 also.

So this simple fix with two clamps was great. But I had to Dremel that coupler off the end to get to that inside metal tip, took about 10 minutes.

But definitely if its easy enough, I'll get high pressure lines fixed right at a shop.


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InfectiousGroov

Well it being a non-critical part, that's great if you can fix yourself. Especially for $2! I try to find the cheapest but effective way to repair things, but never at a cost of safety. Cause I own too many cars, always spending money on one.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I wonder if they have a hand tool that can re-crimp a clamp onto mine. A tool that you can get under the car with. That line I fixed is right out in the open, easy to get to with alot of room to work.


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InfectiousGroov

You mean the aluminum ends that attach to the rubber, right? I know they use one to crimp a new one on, but I don't think it can be reused after that. Interesting thing on the rebuild shop is that they cut your old ends off and reuse those only. They then braze them in the correct positions onto the new hose they built.

Another thing I remembered is one time my mom's Lexus ES300 started leaking pwr steering fluid horribly. Turns out there are a few pwr steering high pressure lines cause the cooling fan is controlled by pwr steering fluid. Yup, that's correct. There are lines that go to/from that. A new hose cost quite a bit, had I known about this shop I would have gone this route.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Well, I just dremeled the "crimp" off, and I left the secondary inside metal end on there. That end has those grooves in it from the factory and thats the key to the rubber hose staying on. The rubber sinks into those grooves and then it won't slide off under pressure. If they cut that end off there's no way the hose would stay on.

"fortmyerspolice" tried cutting the entire end off and clamped the rubber hose to the remaining metal line end. It came off.

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InfectiousGroov

Yup, totally understood what you meant reading it in my email without pics. Good idea, I never thought about doing that. As long as the pressure isn't too great I guess it'll do fine.