Write up: How to make your own passenger window fix!
06-15-2009, 05:39 AM
#21
I mounted the fuse panel on the drivers side right behind the radiator support, I actual tapped into the positive terminal on the fuse block instead of the battery. It tucks up nicely and you cant see it unless you really look for it. Ill try to get some pics in the morning.
06-15-2009, 05:41 AM
#22
Has anyone actually done this and followed it exactly?
I ask because I'm about 99% sure there is something wrong with the wiring diagram in regards to the relay making the window go down (blue wires). When wired exactly as shown, as soon as I put the inline fuse in, the relay clicks and the window rolls itself up without any input from either switch (drivers door or pass door).
I'm in the process of troubleshooting right now, as I was doing this and taking pictures to make a detailed, step by step write-up.
The other thing is that a 30 amp fuse, while it would work, is bigger than necessary. The window motor only draws 15 amps of current during use, so I would go with a 20 amp. I will post back when I get this figured out...
I ask because I'm about 99% sure there is something wrong with the wiring diagram in regards to the relay making the window go down (blue wires). When wired exactly as shown, as soon as I put the inline fuse in, the relay clicks and the window rolls itself up without any input from either switch (drivers door or pass door).
I'm in the process of troubleshooting right now, as I was doing this and taking pictures to make a detailed, step by step write-up.
The other thing is that a 30 amp fuse, while it would work, is bigger than necessary. The window motor only draws 15 amps of current during use, so I would go with a 20 amp. I will post back when I get this figured out...
06-16-2009, 01:27 PM
#24
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im having a problem with my kit, for some reason as soon as i connect the battery it blows the fuse that i have inline for the power wire to the relay?? any idea whats causing this? also im using 14 awg wire is that a problem?
06-16-2009, 06:37 PM
#25
Well, I figured out what the problem is in my case: Shitty relays. The ones I got are from Duralast and I physically broke three of them which was leading to all kinds of electrical issues. The problem is that the post that takes the signal wire is not seated properly in the relay body and it comes loose from the pressure of putting a fastener on, causing intermittent signal and shorting sometimes, which is what kept blowing the fuse.
I'll find some better relays and it should work.
C5forumla: Do you have an autotrix kit or did you build it yourself? From what you're saying you've got a short somewhere or a bad relay. And IMHO 14awg should be fine as far as current carrying capacity as long as all of your terminations and connections are solid.
I'll find some better relays and it should work.
C5forumla: Do you have an autotrix kit or did you build it yourself? From what you're saying you've got a short somewhere or a bad relay. And IMHO 14awg should be fine as far as current carrying capacity as long as all of your terminations and connections are solid.
Great Write-Up..I ll check on my '01 Camaro...
06-18-2009, 05:00 AM
#28
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YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I saw that kit like a year and a half ago and since i got a real job making real money never been able to find the kit again!!!!!! Thank you!
Now the question, what will this do for a window already on its last legs? i can do this no problem but will i still have to buy a new window motor?
Now the question, what will this do for a window already on its last legs? i can do this no problem but will i still have to buy a new window motor?
06-20-2009, 12:13 PM
#29
Well I got some new relays from NAPA and they are 100% better than the AutoZone ones. Not to hijack, but I will be posting a step-by-step with pics in the next couple days.
Thanks for the help tiresmoke!
And c5formula: it would be impossible to tell what would be causing the short without being there with a multimeter to check it out. Your best bet is to find a friend that knows enough about electronics to evaluate the situation, or replace the relay and hope that works.
Thanks for the help tiresmoke!
And c5formula: it would be impossible to tell what would be causing the short without being there with a multimeter to check it out. Your best bet is to find a friend that knows enough about electronics to evaluate the situation, or replace the relay and hope that works.
06-20-2009, 03:44 PM
#30
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ok guys i need some more assitance as well.. excellent write up and a DIY is always preferrable to buying a kit IMHO.
my problem is not the speed of the passenger window though.
"The most reported symptom of the window motor dying is that the motor will stop when attempting to raise the window. After a minute or less and you try it again, it will go up some more and stop. The cycle repeats until you can get the window fully up. Usually the longer you wait between tries, the farther it will go up at a time. The motor has an internal electronic circuit breaker (thermal resistor) that will heat up and trip when the motor is overloaded (either by just being worn out or from trying to overcome mechanical drag). This causes it to have to "rest" before it will go up some more."\
That is my problem from a walkthrough on replacing a window motor but this is all the information that it has about this issue.
I know that there used to be a write somewhere online for BYPASSING this thermal sensor, because I used it for my last camaro. If anyone knows anything else about this could they please give me some more information.
my problem is not the speed of the passenger window though.
"The most reported symptom of the window motor dying is that the motor will stop when attempting to raise the window. After a minute or less and you try it again, it will go up some more and stop. The cycle repeats until you can get the window fully up. Usually the longer you wait between tries, the farther it will go up at a time. The motor has an internal electronic circuit breaker (thermal resistor) that will heat up and trip when the motor is overloaded (either by just being worn out or from trying to overcome mechanical drag). This causes it to have to "rest" before it will go up some more."\
That is my problem from a walkthrough on replacing a window motor but this is all the information that it has about this issue.
I know that there used to be a write somewhere online for BYPASSING this thermal sensor, because I used it for my last camaro. If anyone knows anything else about this could they please give me some more information.
06-20-2009, 03:56 PM
#31
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never mind i found it.. if anyone else needs it here is the walkthrough
1. Remove the window motor from the door. http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
2. Bend the 3 metal tabs on the end of the main housing outward with pliers to release the black plastic end cap from the main housing. The end cap is what you will be modding.
3. Pull the plastic end cap off off the main housing. The 2 brushes and 2 springs will fall out, (don't panic) .
4. There is a 1" conducting strip it is layered. Pull the top strip (copper) off with flat-tip and pliers. You will now see a black surface on the conductor.
5. Using a Dremel with grinding stone or similar, grind the black insulation off to get bare metal surface, also dress the second small terminal that conncects to the brush square opening.
6. Bend the two conductors so they touch and solder them together. Steps 7and 9 are optional but they will further enhance conductive ability.
7. Cut a piece of 12 AWG wire several inches long, and strip the end and tin it with solder.
8. Solder the one end of the wire in to further strengthen the newly soldered conducting surface in the cap. This wire stub is only to enhance the conducting ability.
9. Cut all the excess wire off.
10. Pull the motor armature completely out of the main housing.
11. Bend the four small tabs outward on the end cap so that the brushes can be inserted from the outside rather than the inside.
12. Ensure the armature commutator (the round gold surface where the brushes ride) is clean of grease.
13. Place the plastic end cap on the armature.
14. Insert one brushes in there square slot from the outside, it is indexed and will only fit one way.
15. After the brush is in insert the spring and secure it by bending the two tabs over.
16. Repeat step 14-15 for the other brush and spring.
17. After the two brushes and springs are installed, slip the entire assembly back into the main housing and lightly tap the housing till its seated.
18. Bend the 3 tabs over to secure the end cap to the main housing.
19. Install the window motor. Once the access hole are drilled in the door, I use allen head screw and whiz nuts (nut with attached serrated locking ring) to attach the motr. This make the whole process very easy to do. The whiz nuts dont require a wrench to tighten, they bite into the door.
20. Proceed to drool over the new wicked fast 3-4 second ET's of your power windows.
and a link to the forum where it came from
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...t=Window+Motor
1. Remove the window motor from the door. http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
2. Bend the 3 metal tabs on the end of the main housing outward with pliers to release the black plastic end cap from the main housing. The end cap is what you will be modding.
3. Pull the plastic end cap off off the main housing. The 2 brushes and 2 springs will fall out, (don't panic) .
4. There is a 1" conducting strip it is layered. Pull the top strip (copper) off with flat-tip and pliers. You will now see a black surface on the conductor.
5. Using a Dremel with grinding stone or similar, grind the black insulation off to get bare metal surface, also dress the second small terminal that conncects to the brush square opening.
6. Bend the two conductors so they touch and solder them together. Steps 7and 9 are optional but they will further enhance conductive ability.
7. Cut a piece of 12 AWG wire several inches long, and strip the end and tin it with solder.
8. Solder the one end of the wire in to further strengthen the newly soldered conducting surface in the cap. This wire stub is only to enhance the conducting ability.
9. Cut all the excess wire off.
10. Pull the motor armature completely out of the main housing.
11. Bend the four small tabs outward on the end cap so that the brushes can be inserted from the outside rather than the inside.
12. Ensure the armature commutator (the round gold surface where the brushes ride) is clean of grease.
13. Place the plastic end cap on the armature.
14. Insert one brushes in there square slot from the outside, it is indexed and will only fit one way.
15. After the brush is in insert the spring and secure it by bending the two tabs over.
16. Repeat step 14-15 for the other brush and spring.
17. After the two brushes and springs are installed, slip the entire assembly back into the main housing and lightly tap the housing till its seated.
18. Bend the 3 tabs over to secure the end cap to the main housing.
19. Install the window motor. Once the access hole are drilled in the door, I use allen head screw and whiz nuts (nut with attached serrated locking ring) to attach the motr. This make the whole process very easy to do. The whiz nuts dont require a wrench to tighten, they bite into the door.
20. Proceed to drool over the new wicked fast 3-4 second ET's of your power windows.
and a link to the forum where it came from
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...t=Window+Motor
06-20-2009, 06:50 PM
#33
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It's about time someone was allowed to do a write-up on this thing. LOL! I did this about 5 years ago to my buddy's Z. It still works great to this very day!
*Note* It isn't critical to use pin 85 of the relay as your signal input vs pin 86. They are interchangeable as long as you connect the opposing pin to the opposite of the signal your using as a trigger.
*Note* It isn't critical to use pin 85 of the relay as your signal input vs pin 86. They are interchangeable as long as you connect the opposing pin to the opposite of the signal your using as a trigger.
06-23-2009, 04:47 PM
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I think I will have to do this sometime soon. Funny thing is its always the drivers side motor and not the passenger side. Gone through 3 driver motors and not a single passenger motor over the last 5 years.