Write up: How to make your own passenger window fix!
07-06-2009, 07:35 PM
#41
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Just wondering where you guys found your relays at. Napa and autozone both charge $10 (the HQ one is $15) for one relay, so for two its $20, throw in some butt splices, spade connectors and wire and your over $30, which is what I had thought the autotrix kit costs. Maybe I'm wrong on that...
The worst part is the 4 spade relays cost like $5, so where the heck is the extra $5 cost coming from?
The worst part is the 4 spade relays cost like $5, so where the heck is the extra $5 cost coming from?
09-16-2009, 05:08 PM
#43
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Wanted to bump this back up to the top. Was hoping someone could update the diagram or describe what needs to change from the first one. OP posed this on page2:
I'm kinda electrical stupid. Thanks :-)
I'm kinda electrical stupid. Thanks :-)
12-08-2009, 04:31 PM
#48
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After having one motor sieze, and replacing it, I came to the decision it was not a voltage problem that blew my motor, it is a water intrusion problem that leeches into the motor from above the motor location in the doors. The siezed motor was internally rusted so bad, no amount of current through the totally adequate wiring would "unfreeze" it. It had been slowing over time (that was the rust slowly distroying the motor) and finally, totally locked up. There is no "signal" that goes to the motor. Just positive/negative to move the motor one way, and negative/positive to move it the other way. If GM had designed the motors to drain the moisture out of a weep hole at its lowest point, the motors would be lasting a whole lot more than what they are. If GM had sealed the connector end of the motors to prevent water from entering the internal areas of the motor, the motors would be lasting a whole lot more than they are. Pointing the motor upwards (connector side) without sealing that connector, and not providing a way to drain the water that finds its way into that connector end, is why the majority of them fail. System voltage at the drivers switches (given a good set of switch contacts and good connections throughout the wiring harness) will be the same as the available design voltage and current at the passenger side switch/motor. The only way the voltage would be any measurable amount lower would be if the door wiring was scores of feet/yards longer than what it is. Badly frayed wiring, defective switch contacts, or a messed up motor takes time and effort to isolate and fix. A splice installed into a frayed wire, a new switch, or a replacement motor is a lot less expensive (and more fun to find/fix) than totally rewiring two electric window wiring systems. Not to mention, how gawky would all that wiring (and wire ties) look when opening your hood (or having someone looking under/into your dash/doors)? What? You mean you just drapped all those wires all over the place? ewwwwwwwww........
12-10-2009, 02:52 AM
#49
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good stuff Evan, this is a great write up, my passenger window is getting slow. btw the problem when the window motors go out is because of the commentator on the motor, it will get really gummed up from the brushes since it is not getting the full 12 volts, and when that gets gummed up its hard for the power to get transferred to it. if you want to revive a window motor, remove the comm and clean it with scotch brite and make it shiny again, also clean the brushes.
03-05-2018, 04:13 PM
#51
When I did mine I used #12 but it was overkill, the stock wires were smaller so must have been #14.
One more thing: you do not need to run a separate +12 power wire to the battery, or fuse box, or wherever. As someone pointed out in another thread, the brown wire at the pass. window switch is +12 that does not go through the driver's switch, and it's already got a 30A circuit breaker. You do still need a separate ground wire though.
One more thing: you do not need to run a separate +12 power wire to the battery, or fuse box, or wherever. As someone pointed out in another thread, the brown wire at the pass. window switch is +12 that does not go through the driver's switch, and it's already got a 30A circuit breaker. You do still need a separate ground wire though.
03-24-2018, 05:33 PM
#54
03-24-2018, 07:33 PM
#55
Funny, I actually did it because I have an odd thing where my radio gets louder while my speedometer does a sweep and I read someone's post where it fixed his passenger window speed. That was my motivation as I could see right away if doing the BCM did anything. I'm glad to because mine didn't look bad at all and I redid the main relay and the other 4 on it anyways. My passenger window went from maybe 20% to within 1% of the driver side. It was awful when I bought the car and the first thing I did was both window motors to get it to the 20%. I have not driven enough to know if it worked on the radio and speedo, but since it can the radio off when it is bad I have some hope.
01-01-2020, 02:26 PM
#57
The Autotrix seem inacurate. They say pin E is the brown wire. On the connector Pin E is Tan and Pin C is brown, so I made a fews ajustement. 5 Pins relays seem useless too, I think you can use 4 Pins relay.
The initial diagram of this post is almost right. 85 goes to ground and 86 is the signal switch. 30 is +12 from battery and 87 is +12 goes to motor
