seafoam and mopar combustion chamber cleaner
08-17-2009, 08:08 PM
#102
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Yeah, its too bad everyone doesn't actually read all the info to learn that my oil burning has stopped after fixing the PCV crap. ******** like "oneBADDz" just never get anything out of forums likethis.
Tell ya what, I have 1 1/2 weeks left to this 4 week experiment with this new PCV set-up. I checked my oil today and it seems like it may have burned a tiny bit, so little if any I really can't tell. So I went from burning 1 qrt every 2 weeks to pretty much burning nothing now. But, maybe a tad bit. Not enough to tell yet. Maybe in another week I'll be able to see if its even with a mark on my dipstick I made so I can tell.
I'll do that with the oil. What brand oil and weight do you want me to put in there?
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Tell ya what, I have 1 1/2 weeks left to this 4 week experiment with this new PCV set-up. I checked my oil today and it seems like it may have burned a tiny bit, so little if any I really can't tell. So I went from burning 1 qrt every 2 weeks to pretty much burning nothing now. But, maybe a tad bit. Not enough to tell yet. Maybe in another week I'll be able to see if its even with a mark on my dipstick I made so I can tell.
I'll do that with the oil. What brand oil and weight do you want me to put in there?
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08-17-2009, 10:20 PM
#103
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Well, I don't know what the manufacturer recommends for a stock LS1/6. But LPE built the short block, and when I bought it from a friend still in its crate, he was told by them to use 10w40. Thats why I used it when I put the engine together.
So I guess I'll do that...Castrol GTX 20w50 is what I've used for years, so I'll get that brand in 10w40.
Also, I always use the Purolator filters. Might as well keep that as a constant for the test.
I'll do it in 1 1/2 weeks and then report what happens.
*****I guess if there's oil burn, but the oil pressures stay about the same, its safe to say I do have some blow-by from ring wear (which I certainly should have with 120,000+ miles).
If the oil burn stays like its been for about 3 weeks now with the new PCV set-up, the PCV will still remain the cause of my oil burn all along.
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So I guess I'll do that...Castrol GTX 20w50 is what I've used for years, so I'll get that brand in 10w40.
Also, I always use the Purolator filters. Might as well keep that as a constant for the test.
I'll do it in 1 1/2 weeks and then report what happens.
*****I guess if there's oil burn, but the oil pressures stay about the same, its safe to say I do have some blow-by from ring wear (which I certainly should have with 120,000+ miles).
If the oil burn stays like its been for about 3 weeks now with the new PCV set-up, the PCV will still remain the cause of my oil burn all along.
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BTW, a friend of mine has a few cases of Castrol GTX 10w40 sitting around and is looking to get rid of them all since he's going all synthetic. He said he'll sell them all for $2 a quart if anyone is interested.
08-17-2009, 10:40 PM
#104
That sounds good. Probably good not to invest too much in the change in the event that you start losing oil to the tune of wanting of go ahead and switch back to 20w50.
BTW, a friend of mine has a few cases of Castrol GTX 10w40 sitting around and is looking to get rid of them all since he's going all synthetic. He said he'll sell them all for $2 a quart if anyone is interested.
BTW, a friend of mine has a few cases of Castrol GTX 10w40 sitting around and is looking to get rid of them all since he's going all synthetic. He said he'll sell them all for $2 a quart if anyone is interested.
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08-18-2009, 08:02 AM
#105
12 Second Club
Here's another thing to consider while singing the praises of Seafoam. It's a light weight mineral oil. What do you think happens as it sits in your cylinders to soak. My guess is that a significant amount leaks down through the ring gaps into the crankcase, thus thinning your oil.
That sputtering and clunking you hear when you pour a little too much in is the sound of hydro locking a cylinder. As too much liquid enters a cylinder it does not compress thus reducing the combustion chamber size and raising the compression ratio. This causes detonation and pinging. This is what happened when I believed the hype and ran Seafoam in my Jeep. I had to replace my sparkplugs because some of the electrodes were damaged in the process.
It was after that ordeal that I asked my buddy that was a GM tech what they used. He told me the dealership used a GM top engine cleaner in an aerosol can, but that individuals couldn't buy it any longer. I spoke to a Jeep dealer and they use MCCC. He even read the TSB on how to use it, which was slightly different than what's on the can. The TSB recommended application through a vacuum port close to the throttle body. (PCV for the LS1 and brake booster for my Jeep 4.0L) After the waiting period of 2-4 hours with the hood closed to contain engine heat, start the engine and run 5-6 WOT runs on the highway.
If you still want to use SeaFoam, try putting it into the PCV port at the throttle body, that way you are introducing it at the leading edge of the airflow.
That sputtering and clunking you hear when you pour a little too much in is the sound of hydro locking a cylinder. As too much liquid enters a cylinder it does not compress thus reducing the combustion chamber size and raising the compression ratio. This causes detonation and pinging. This is what happened when I believed the hype and ran Seafoam in my Jeep. I had to replace my sparkplugs because some of the electrodes were damaged in the process.
It was after that ordeal that I asked my buddy that was a GM tech what they used. He told me the dealership used a GM top engine cleaner in an aerosol can, but that individuals couldn't buy it any longer. I spoke to a Jeep dealer and they use MCCC. He even read the TSB on how to use it, which was slightly different than what's on the can. The TSB recommended application through a vacuum port close to the throttle body. (PCV for the LS1 and brake booster for my Jeep 4.0L) After the waiting period of 2-4 hours with the hood closed to contain engine heat, start the engine and run 5-6 WOT runs on the highway.
If you still want to use SeaFoam, try putting it into the PCV port at the throttle body, that way you are introducing it at the leading edge of the airflow.
08-18-2009, 11:26 AM
#107
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I'll get them locally. PepBoys has 5 qrts of Castrol GTX 10w40 oil and a filter for $10.99 with the $5.00 rebate. I always throw a Purolator filter in my basket Then I just buy an extra qrt. The special is on their website home page. It's been a special for a long *** time now, I've used it a few times this year.
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08-18-2009, 11:29 AM
#108
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Here's another thing to consider while singing the praises of Seafoam. It's a light weight mineral oil. What do you think happens as it sits in your cylinders to soak. My guess is that a significant amount leaks down through the ring gaps into the crankcase, thus thinning your oil.
That sputtering and clunking you hear when you pour a little too much in is the sound of hydro locking a cylinder. As too much liquid enters a cylinder it does not compress thus reducing the combustion chamber size and raising the compression ratio. This causes detonation and pinging. This is what happened when I believed the hype and ran Seafoam in my Jeep. I had to replace my sparkplugs because some of the electrodes were damaged in the process.
It was after that ordeal that I asked my buddy that was a GM tech what they used. He told me the dealership used a GM top engine cleaner in an aerosol can, but that individuals couldn't buy it any longer. I spoke to a Jeep dealer and they use MCCC. He even read the TSB on how to use it, which was slightly different than what's on the can. The TSB recommended application through a vacuum port close to the throttle body. (PCV for the LS1 and brake booster for my Jeep 4.0L) After the waiting period of 2-4 hours with the hood closed to contain engine heat, start the engine and run 5-6 WOT runs on the highway.
If you still want to use SeaFoam, try putting it into the PCV port at the throttle body, that way you are introducing it at the leading edge of the airflow.
That sputtering and clunking you hear when you pour a little too much in is the sound of hydro locking a cylinder. As too much liquid enters a cylinder it does not compress thus reducing the combustion chamber size and raising the compression ratio. This causes detonation and pinging. This is what happened when I believed the hype and ran Seafoam in my Jeep. I had to replace my sparkplugs because some of the electrodes were damaged in the process.
It was after that ordeal that I asked my buddy that was a GM tech what they used. He told me the dealership used a GM top engine cleaner in an aerosol can, but that individuals couldn't buy it any longer. I spoke to a Jeep dealer and they use MCCC. He even read the TSB on how to use it, which was slightly different than what's on the can. The TSB recommended application through a vacuum port close to the throttle body. (PCV for the LS1 and brake booster for my Jeep 4.0L) After the waiting period of 2-4 hours with the hood closed to contain engine heat, start the engine and run 5-6 WOT runs on the highway.
If you still want to use SeaFoam, try putting it into the PCV port at the throttle body, that way you are introducing it at the leading edge of the airflow.
Last edited by add|ct; 08-18-2009 at 12:21 PM.
08-19-2009, 10:38 PM
#110
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Well, I have over 120,000 miles on my fully forged, fully built 427ci. "daily driver". If I'm shortening its life then I'm still whipping everyone else out there in miles on an engine of this type. Its still runs like a new engine, no difference. Not a single repair has ever been done to this engine..oil changes and tune ups only. I'd say whatever it is I'm doing is working.
I did however recently realize how much friggin oil I was losing through this dumbass PCV system. I have since stopped that from happening from what I did above. Its been working great so far and my oil loss has stopped. I'm also not a PCM/tuner expert, but I can only assume that there was so much oil going into my intake that it was making me run rich because of the "black" soot that would accumulate on my rear bumpers right above each tailpipe after just a few days. Thats has also 100% stopped. Its been 6 weeks and they're spotless. For the past 4-5 years I have been wiping them clean with Goo-Off once a week. PITA
Gas mileage is better too, from not running rich I assume.
Flushing is actually the key to long engine life IMO....as far as I'm concerned. I think its actually the little trick that 99% of people don't do.
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I did however recently realize how much friggin oil I was losing through this dumbass PCV system. I have since stopped that from happening from what I did above. Its been working great so far and my oil loss has stopped. I'm also not a PCM/tuner expert, but I can only assume that there was so much oil going into my intake that it was making me run rich because of the "black" soot that would accumulate on my rear bumpers right above each tailpipe after just a few days. Thats has also 100% stopped. Its been 6 weeks and they're spotless. For the past 4-5 years I have been wiping them clean with Goo-Off once a week. PITA
Gas mileage is better too, from not running rich I assume.
Flushing is actually the key to long engine life IMO....as far as I'm concerned. I think its actually the little trick that 99% of people don't do.
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. Now it is clean and all I do is empty the catch can every 5000 miles or so 
.By the way, I am the original owner of a 1998 Trans Am with 90K. Never used anything but Mobil 1 10W 30 in South Florida and Southern California.
All I ever replaced on this car was a clutch, starter and water pump all within the past 2 years.
I use seafoam, and as a result of this thread, I will no longer use it in the top end. Switching to MPCC. You convinced me.
Thanks.
03-21-2017, 11:24 AM
#111
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LS6427 I've around this forum for a while now and you are one of the few members that know what you're talking about. I was going to seafoam my car lol WAS>>> until I read this. After work I'm running to my local dodge to purchase a can. One question, would you recommend doing this with a new oil change or would it matter to do it now with oil that I plan on changing in the next month.
Thanks again bro
Thanks again bro
03-22-2017, 05:00 AM
#112
LS6427 I've around this forum for a while now and you are one of the few members that know what you're talking about. I was going to seafoam my car lol WAS>>> until I read this. After work I'm running to my local dodge to purchase a can. One question, would you recommend doing this with a new oil change or would it matter to do it now with oil that I plan on changing in the next month.
Thanks again bro
Thanks again bro
If you cannot find MCCC at the dealer....try ebay, its usually available there.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Combusti...0AAOSwOtdYUvVm
If not, your local Yamaha Outboard boat motor shop has the same great product. YCCC....Yamaha Combustion Chamber Cleaner. I've used it and it works just like MCCC. And easy to find, especially in Ft. Lauderdale, boating capital of the world.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Yamaha-C...JYro4D&vxp=mtr
A top-end cleaning has nothing to do with the crankcase oil.....and they are both "foams" so they should not turn to liquid and leak by your piston rings and get into the oil.
BUT......if you need an oil change, you might as well just go ahead and do the top end foam cleaning first....then do a fresh oil change. Just in case some does get by the ring(s), who knows if there are any weak spots in any of the rings. Real high mileage engines, its good I guess to do the oil change right after the top-end cleaning.
And the longer you can let it sit after you shut the engine down, the better. Even over-night. But 3-4 hours is pretty good.
Most important part of it all............after you start it up after it has sat and soaked......DO NOT rev it or go WOT until it accelerates smoothly a couple times from 15-20mph all the way gradually accelerating up to about 70-80mph. If its completely smooth a couple times doing that.....then you can wack it and go WOT......
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03-22-2017, 01:03 PM
#113
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LS6427 awesome. I picked up a can last night I plan to follow your procedure this afternoon before sun goes down. I'll spray mccc at 6pm and start car at 11pm when it's nice and dark this way all damn old people in my complex don't call cops on me lol.
Reason I asked about oil change is because everyone talk about inserting a can of seafoam through crankcase. I guess I'll get your thoughts about that, although I get the vibe of a F*** no don't do that.
Reason I asked about oil change is because everyone talk about inserting a can of seafoam through crankcase. I guess I'll get your thoughts about that, although I get the vibe of a F*** no don't do that.
03-22-2017, 05:56 PM
#114
LS6427 awesome. I picked up a can last night I plan to follow your procedure this afternoon before sun goes down. I'll spray mccc at 6pm and start car at 11pm when it's nice and dark this way all damn old people in my complex don't call cops on me lol.
Reason I asked about oil change is because everyone talk about inserting a can of seafoam through crankcase. I guess I'll get your thoughts about that, although I get the vibe of a F*** no don't do that.
Reason I asked about oil change is because everyone talk about inserting a can of seafoam through crankcase. I guess I'll get your thoughts about that, although I get the vibe of a F*** no don't do that.
I pour a full can of SeaFoam into my gas tank every 3-4 months....when my needle is on the "E". I then drive it for about 10-15 miles, then fill up.
Its actually great for the crankcase to clean it before an oil change. But DO NOT drive around...or rev the engine.....with SeaFoam in the crankcase. Clean the top end....then later like the next day or same day, do the oil change. Don't do them together because you don't want to drive it with SeaFoam in it. Complete the test drive after the top end cleaning....till it runs smooth at WOT.
If you are ready to do the oil change, pour a full can into a warmed up engine. Let it idle for 5 minutes. NO REVVING. Then drain it all out. THEN...you must pour 4 qrts of cheap oil into the engine and let that run for about 5 minutes. Then drain it all again. Then change the oil filter and put in new fresh good oil.
Reason for the second flush: You will have about a cup of that SeaFoam still in the engine, passage ways, pump and oil pan mixed in with all the oil thast cannot be drained out. If you do not get all that Seafoam "liquid" out and you just add new oil, it will destroy your viscosity of the new oil. Bearing damage and wear will take place with watered-down oil over time. Just not a good ideas to have that in there with the oil.
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03-22-2017, 06:10 PM
#115
I have a unique job....I only work 6 weeks ON...then I get 3 weeks OFF. I rotate that schedule with my 2 other employees. But with scheduled maintenance for our corporate jet, which is about 6 weeks a year, plus our boss gives us three pilots and my Flight Attendant 1 full month off every x-mas/New Years. So I only worked about 5 months last year......
I usually sit around for 8-10 days, then we will have a flight for one day, maybe an overnight somewhere. Then we sit again and wait for my boss to have another flight somewhere.....usually 8-10 days later.
I live in Ft. Lauderdale, but my aircraft is based in Dubai. So I come here to do my 6 week ON duty period, then I airline home for 3-4 weeks OFF. Then I come back, and so on......
And the money is INSANE......I make 3 times what the same pilot makes in the USA. And I pay zero tax.
So yes....I have a shitload of free time......
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