Tranny Seal
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Tulsa, OK
Remove the seal with a seal remover, and tap the new one in. Same as a wheel bearing seal.
The bushing behind the seal takes a special puller/installer, but Joecar is right, you should change it too.
The bushing behind the seal takes a special puller/installer, but Joecar is right, you should change it too.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,483
Likes: 3
ok so i should prob replace both?? it cant be too expensive im guessing?
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,012
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From: Tulsa, OK
Not sure, but something like that I wouldn't get from an online site anyway, for a couple of reasons:
1. From the parts store, it'll be less than $10.
2. You can't match it with the old one.
3. There's no good reason to pay the extra to have an OEM seal. They buy theirs from the same manufacturers the parts stores do.
1. From the parts store, it'll be less than $10.
2. You can't match it with the old one.
3. There's no good reason to pay the extra to have an OEM seal. They buy theirs from the same manufacturers the parts stores do.
O reillys said they cant get them, neither could the other parts houses. They said go to the GM dealer. My local Chevy dealer wants $53 for one. So I looked on GM parts house and its only $8. If thats the same part.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2008
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wut is the part #'s that we need for the both of them??
just replaced the seal and bushing part number 5200 at Advanced and AZ $7.99. the bushing is really tight though. Im thinking once I put a few miles on in the driveshaft will break it in.
No, took a lil while to get the bushing off. I did not have a puller so I bent the tip of a skinniy flat head and just kept pulling on the back of the bushing and a little banging and finally got it. Just a regular seal puller will do the trick for the seal.