PDQ-TA

iTrader: (1)

Hey Guys, Backed the car out and found small puddle of antifreeze on the floor. Seems the pump is starting to weep. (after 48,000 miles ) I have a few questions before I start digging into it.
1. Any brand pump better then the others.
2. Should I switch to a 160 thermostat while I have it out. car is stock
3. Whats the best coolant to use.
4. What are some of the problems to look for.
Seems a pretty straight forward replacement. Thanks for any help!!

fleetmgr

Not really, just don't buy a reman...get a new one. New doesn't guarantee good, but it does increase the chances. Reman is a pig in a poke.

There's no point to doing this, especially as you then have to go into the computer to reset the fans.

In spite of what some people here will try to tell you, Dexcool will work just fine. Flush the cooling system while you're at it, and if you have any questionable hoses now is the time for them, too.

PDQ-TA

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info. I plan on buying a new instead of a reman.

eseibel67

iTrader: (10)

I would say a reman is better than new. The reman is made with an OE casting. I've seen new ones that are pile of **** made in China. I used to work for a water pump rebuilder, and we also sold new pumps. I would go for the reman unless you are sure the new one is good.

Put in a new stat while your in there, but stick to the recommend temp. I think it's 180.

Dexcool is o.k.

Changing the water pump on an LS1 is a very straight forward procedure.

themack56

iTrader: (70)

use dexcool!!!!!!!! get a new pump. you can usually fine new gm ones on ebay for half the price. new price is 300+ yikes lol. go on ebay

great421

iTrader: (1)

OK, I just did mine TODAY; here's my two cents:

1) Summit's GM Hi Performance unit is the one I went with, as I liked the one year warranty and the higher flow over a simple no-name remaned unit.
2) If the car's PCM is not set up to start the fans at a lower temp, then probably not as all you'll do is open the thermostat earlier. The fans still won't start untill the coolant temp hits the stock setting. However, given the lower opening temp, the engine might see lower temps when moving as highway speeds. (I can't recall if I installed a 160 degree unit before PCM 4 Less retuned my PCM the first time or not...)
3) Dexcool
4) Caked and dried up thread sealant on the pump bolts. Take a wire bursh to the bolts. Additionally, IMHO the best way to avoid doing this R&R again is too clean the block's gasket surface and put a layer of Permitex's (forgive the spelling error - if any...) Non-Vulcanizing Water Pump-specific sealant. This grey stuff comes in a 1/2 oz tube - put it on the pump and the gasket surface which mates with the block, and you'll never have a leak there again. Oh, and don't forget to move the splined cylinder that drives the pump from the old pump to the new pump - I almost missed that step. That would have been bad!

Good luck - have fun!

Eureka

Hoses and clamps like the other guy said is a good time to replace. Take a scraper blade and scrape all of the gunk and foriegn objects off of the frame where the water pump and the gaskets are going against. Tighten screws even. Dont freak out if your temp goes up right away, you may have to bleed the air out of the system with the bleeder valve. that will do the trick... You may have to (bleed) do it more than once. Try to get all of the air out of there. I did it like 3 times and she's all good...

eseibel67

iTrader: (10)

LS1 does not have a bleeder valve.

Doesn't need one either, because they easily burp themselves out when refilling.

Blazingz28

iTrader: (5)

Just wanted to update for anyone doing waterpump. Mine finally went at 140k.. good thing we have a fleet account at autozone! $100 for a waterpump instead of 240.. whew..

anyways.. VERY simple installation. Removing electric fans makes it 100x easier.

Schnell

Replaced mine back in September w/ a new one from Advance Auto and I had an issue. I purchased new, NOT reman. The pulley was either pressed on not straight or there was a wobble in the shaft. This caused the entire engine to have a shake that it never had before easily felt during idle. I was unbelievably unhappy. Once I pulled the new one back off I could spin the pulley and visually see it not spinning straight. Do yourself a favor and spin it before you put it on. Might save you a few hours time. Also pick up the large metal oil drop catch they sell at walmart. This helps for when antifreeze is going everywhere.

jam01

if you buy a new waterpump, make sure mickey mouse didnt build it. he missed the class on that one. just make sure it was built by a reputable company, sometimes that money you saved isnt a savings afterall. you know that lifetime warranty, where your replacing it every month or your stuck on the highway and need to call a tow truck, all while your girl is screaming in your ear. and yes even buying the best money can buy, you can get a defect. i have sold thousands of parts in my years as a gm parts person, and i only had a few defective. this is only my opinion good luck

GMRL

Easy.

New is usually cheaper than rem btw, no idea why, but it is.
Dexcool works good.
Do hoses,clamps, t-stat, and cap while youre there.
Makes it a bit easier if you remove the TB.
Rub a thin layer of silicone on the new gaskets to help seal it.
Also helps keep them on there while your sticking the pump on there.
When your filling the radiator with new coolant, squeeze the hoses repeatedly to help get the air out.