Inner Tie Rod Caps
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Chico, Ca
Inner Tie Rod Caps I replaced my tie rods with some alleged "OE" replacements.
Went fairly smoothly besides having to saw off a stubborn nut. The only thing of real concern would be that the plastic "shock absorber" caps, (they sit on top of the end of the inner rod), don't fit snugly like they did on the ones that were previously on the car. In fact they're kinda loose. I could imagine after a while steering lock to lock, they'd fall off and get smashed on the rack against the tie rods.
My questions is, do you think i'll be fine if I took them off?
Went fairly smoothly besides having to saw off a stubborn nut. The only thing of real concern would be that the plastic "shock absorber" caps, (they sit on top of the end of the inner rod), don't fit snugly like they did on the ones that were previously on the car. In fact they're kinda loose. I could imagine after a while steering lock to lock, they'd fall off and get smashed on the rack against the tie rods.
My questions is, do you think i'll be fine if I took them off?
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,012
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa, OK
This problem doesn't just effect F bodies, I've seen the same thing with two or threee different models now. As it's just a dust boot, you could take it off. The downside is that you'll end up replacing the tie rod ends again sooner than you would otherwise.
Do not remove the bellows!
Road dirt will damage the seals on your rack.
If you don't want to change the tie rods, wrap some tape around the rod to build up the OD, then clamp it on tight.
Road dirt will damage the seals on your rack.
If you don't want to change the tie rods, wrap some tape around the rod to build up the OD, then clamp it on tight.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Chico, Ca
Here we go, I found a shbox picture of it.
It's #13 in this picture.
http://www.shbox.com/1/innertierod.jpg
The accordion boot i've got on the rod and rack head just fine. But that little plastic ring (shock dampener) doesn't fit real snug. If you look between where it's saying to loctite and where #12 is, #13 slides over the fat "head" of the inner tie rod.
To describe the plastic ring(#13), it looks and feels a lid for a spraypaint can with a hole in the top.
It's #13 in this picture.
http://www.shbox.com/1/innertierod.jpg
The accordion boot i've got on the rod and rack head just fine. But that little plastic ring (shock dampener) doesn't fit real snug. If you look between where it's saying to loctite and where #12 is, #13 slides over the fat "head" of the inner tie rod.
To describe the plastic ring(#13), it looks and feels a lid for a spraypaint can with a hole in the top.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Chico, Ca
Cool alright. I kinda went off your idea of putting tape on it to get the OD a little higher and it worked great. The cap is real snug now.
On a side note, I took it to a alignment shop, he says it's way tighter (the play in the steering) than what it was, but there's still a little play. He suspects that it's the "rag joint".
Here's what $69.99 got me:
Alignment Meas:
LF Camber (Was: -0.6) (Now: -0.3)
LF Caster (Was: 4.1) (Now: 4.2)
LF Toe (Was: -3/16in) (Now: 0in)
RF Camber (Was: 0.1) (Now: 0.9)
RF Caster (Was: 4.1) (Now: 4.9)
RF Toe (Was: -5/32in) (Now: 0in)
On a side note, I took it to a alignment shop, he says it's way tighter (the play in the steering) than what it was, but there's still a little play. He suspects that it's the "rag joint".
Here's what $69.99 got me:
Alignment Meas:
LF Camber (Was: -0.6) (Now: -0.3)
LF Caster (Was: 4.1) (Now: 4.2)
LF Toe (Was: -3/16in) (Now: 0in)
RF Camber (Was: 0.1) (Now: 0.9)
RF Caster (Was: 4.1) (Now: 4.9)
RF Toe (Was: -5/32in) (Now: 0in)
Trending Topics
RF caster and camber are way out. In fact, they went the wrong way with it. Cross camber should be no more than .5 Has the car ever been hit or run into a curb? Make them do it again, properly.
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