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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 05:28 PM
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Default Drivers side window

How do you know if the motor or the regulator needs to be replaced? Mine is about to die . Should I replace both?
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 07:02 PM
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What is it doing? Usually a dying motor will slow down and stop at various places, so that you need to wait and roll it up again later. The regulator usually doesn't need to be replaced, but when mine went out it was making the window vibrate and clunk all the way up and down, because the teeth were rounded off.
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 07:11 PM
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Weird thing about my power windows is the pass side one has always been slow and doing the stop and go thing, but my drivers side window never made any noises or anything, then just stopped. but when i had my battery disconnected it worked fine, then it stopped again. wtf?
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 07:13 PM
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When i hit the switch, at first nothing moves. Than theirs a whiring noise and the window goes down slowly. Same when it goes up.
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Zerokube
Weird thing about my power windows is the pass side one has always been slow and doing the stop and go thing, but my drivers side window never made any noises or anything, then just stopped. but when i had my battery disconnected it worked fine, then it stopped again. wtf?
Originally Posted by Shutout
When i hit the switch, at first nothing moves. Than theirs a whiring noise and the window goes down slowly. Same when it goes up.
Both sound like the motor is going out. I just had to replace my driver side. It acted like this off and on for a few months. the passenger side was always slow for me too, but it still works.
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 11:21 PM
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mine's been acting up lately... almost seems like a problem with the switch but i could be wrong. It moves kinda slow, but has for a long time. but it stops at random times and has been getting worse. What's weirder is it tends to stop in the same places. I'm assuming thats probably the regulator?
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 09:53 AM
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What brand is best to use when time comes to replacing them? I dont recall the name, but I have heard some are crappy quality.
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 07:47 PM
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I would change the motor out, do the autotrix window fix for the passenger side...
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 06:04 PM
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Would it be motor/regulator problem if, when rolled all the way up, it leaves a small gap from fully being up? Can almost fit the tip of finger through it in the corner near the mirror. Rolls up at a ok pace and hasn't stopped mid way or anything.
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dropped_dime98
Would it be motor/regulator problem if, when rolled all the way up, it leaves a small gap from fully being up? Can almost fit the tip of finger through it in the corner near the mirror. Rolls up at a ok pace and hasn't stopped mid way or anything.
Does it slow down when it reaches the top and then stop short? Or does it roll up strong and just stop? If it's the latter, it might just need to be adjusted. The former would be a dying motor.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Spartan7
Does it slow down when it reaches the top and then stop short? Or does it roll up strong and just stop? If it's the latter, it might just need to be adjusted. The former would be a dying motor.
how can you adjust the motor?
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 02:12 PM
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you can't adjust the motor itself, its riveted onto the regulator, which is riveted into the inner door fiberglass. What you adjust is the tracks to correct the window glass. Its the nuts that have arrows near them. F body problems lie in the regulator. Go to the dealer, get a regulator (it should come with a motor) and more than likely if its installed with the correct rivets and lubricated properly it'll fix your power window issues.

Edit: There are some that have the problem if the regulator coming loose off the sash thats riveted to the window glass itself, so check to make sure there isn't evidence of this happening while your in there.

Last edited by FiredUpZ28; Feb 14, 2010 at 02:20 PM.
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 09:22 PM
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Usually it is just the motor. GM sells them as a motor/regulator unit. AZ, advance etc... will sell a motor only for $60 or so compared to $200+ for the GM unit. It is a PIA despite the BS'ers on here who say they can do it in 20 minutes....
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by SOMbitch
It is a PIA despite the BS'ers on here who say they can do it in 20 minutes....
Compared to other parts of the power window, the motor is cake. Try replacing the window channel or the regulator.

Originally Posted by FiredUpZ28
F body problems lie in the regulator.
No, most of our problems are the motor. The driver side motor just wears out after so many years, and the internal breaker heats up and trips. The passenger side is simply a wiring issue.
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by SOMbitch
Usually it is just the motor. GM sells them as a motor/regulator unit. AZ, advance etc... will sell a motor only for $60 or so compared to $200+ for the GM unit. It is a PIA despite the BS'ers on here who say they can do it in 20 minutes....
gm also sell's the motor by itself, i paid $45.00 including shipping from a online gm store. they are not a sponsor here so i dont know if i can say who they are. there is also a sticky on here on how to replace the motor, i did mine just after my back surgery and it only took me 45 minutes in the heat.
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Spartan7

No, most of our problems are the motor. The driver side motor just wears out after so many years, and the internal breaker heats up and trips.
And what causes the motor to burn out? Binding regulators. If you are having a power window motor issue its best to replace the both as a unit its so much easier than trying not to unclock the spring and drilling out holes to get to the motor rivets. You also need to make sure you use the correct rivets - too skinny and they'll let the assembly wiggle in the door, too long and they'll hit the regulator as the window travels.

The passenger side is fixed by applying more voltage sure - but thats just a band-aid. Your applying more voltage to a binding system so of course its gonna go up faster. I've seen the autotrix fix and its no where near as fast as a correctly installed factory system would work.
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 12:37 PM
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whichever you decide to do, get the bolt in style instead of the rivet in style. that way, the hole is not wallowed out later on down the road.
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