Easiest way to check for bad coils........
#22
#25
A new "coolant temp sensor" didn't work, tried one today.
Tomorrow my new "camshaft position sensor" comes in and I'll try that. Gotta take the damn intake off, GAY!!!!!
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Tomorrow my new "camshaft position sensor" comes in and I'll try that. Gotta take the damn intake off, GAY!!!!!
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#27
It seems like a pretty good indication of a camshaft sensor issue.
How do you check them properly, with the ohm-meter? I don't have one but I could get one. Exactly where do I put the meter, car running, what readings, etc....
Its impossible that all of the coils went bad at the same exact time and are all acting the same, so I figured look to what controls them instead
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#28
my crankshaft pos sensor fell on my headers and melted then grounded to it. the car would run super rough, the sound like it cut off, backfire three times then roar back to life, repeat, repea...
that said, if your loosing the whole driver side it sounds like camshaft position sensor, hey are prone to killing one side or the other.
that said, if your loosing the whole driver side it sounds like camshaft position sensor, hey are prone to killing one side or the other.
#29
my crankshaft pos sensor fell on my headers and melted then grounded to it. the car would run super rough, the sound like it cut off, backfire three times then roar back to life, repeat, repea...
that said, if your loosing the whole driver side it sounds like camshaft position sensor, hey are prone to killing one side or the other.
that said, if your loosing the whole driver side it sounds like camshaft position sensor, hey are prone to killing one side or the other.
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#30
You need to use a spark tester (see image attached, about $25 from parts store) on the end of each plug wire (and connect the ground clip of the tester to a suitable ground like the engine block)...
[ you might also want to disable the injector for this cylinder by disconnecting it's connector, this prevents unburnt fuel being dumped on the catalytic ]
at idle, say 600 rpm, each cylinder fires 5 times per second... you should see a fairly strong snappy arc jumping the electrodes of the tester... also give the engine a quick rev (quickly snap the throttle wide open and back again quickly) while observing the spark... if it ever gets weaker or less frequent, then you have a problem on that cylinder (start with wire and work back to coil and to harness and to PCM)... repeat for all cylinders.
[ when done with a cylinder, reconnect the plug wire to the plug and remember to reconnect that injector ]
Also, the PCM uses the crank sensor signal to time the firing of the coils and injectors.
[ you might also want to disable the injector for this cylinder by disconnecting it's connector, this prevents unburnt fuel being dumped on the catalytic ]
at idle, say 600 rpm, each cylinder fires 5 times per second... you should see a fairly strong snappy arc jumping the electrodes of the tester... also give the engine a quick rev (quickly snap the throttle wide open and back again quickly) while observing the spark... if it ever gets weaker or less frequent, then you have a problem on that cylinder (start with wire and work back to coil and to harness and to PCM)... repeat for all cylinders.
[ when done with a cylinder, reconnect the plug wire to the plug and remember to reconnect that injector ]
Also, the PCM uses the crank sensor signal to time the firing of the coils and injectors.
Last edited by joecar; 02-18-2010 at 10:23 PM.
#31
You need to use a spark tester (see image attached, about $25 from parts store) on the end of each plug wire (and connect the ground clip of the tester to a suitable ground like the engine block)...
[ you might also want to disable the injector for this cylinder by disconnecting it's connector, this prevents unburnt fuel being dumped on the catalytic ]
at idle, say 600 rpm, each cylinder fires 5 times per second... you should see a fairly strong snappy arc jumping the electrodes of the tester... also give the engine a quick rev (quickly snap the throttle wide open and back again quickly) while observing the spark... if it ever gets weaker or less frequent, then you have a problem on that cylinder (start with wire and work back to coil and to harness and to PCM)... repeat for all cylinders.
[ when done with a cylinder, reconnect the plug wire to the plug and remember to reconnect that injector ]
[ you might also want to disable the injector for this cylinder by disconnecting it's connector, this prevents unburnt fuel being dumped on the catalytic ]
at idle, say 600 rpm, each cylinder fires 5 times per second... you should see a fairly strong snappy arc jumping the electrodes of the tester... also give the engine a quick rev (quickly snap the throttle wide open and back again quickly) while observing the spark... if it ever gets weaker or less frequent, then you have a problem on that cylinder (start with wire and work back to coil and to harness and to PCM)... repeat for all cylinders.
[ when done with a cylinder, reconnect the plug wire to the plug and remember to reconnect that injector ]
BUT....by removing the plug wires from the coil, and seeing the sparking the way I describe, all wacky and out of sequence, isn't that a clear indication that the firing order is way out of wack???
Also, the PCM uses the crank sensor signal to time the firing of the coils and injectors.
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#32
When you pulled the plug wire, which end did you pull, and where was it arcing to...?
So, this wacky firing can also be from a bad crankshaft sensor? I thought the camshaft sensor was responsible for proper firing sequence.
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it looks at the cam sensor signal to know which of the two TDC's a cylinder is on (TDC compression stroke or TDC exhaust stroke).
Sometimes, if the cam signal is lost, the PCM may batch fire instead of sequential fire...
if either sensor is bad you may possibly the get symptoms you see...
if the cranks sensor signal is bad, the RPM will be wrong.
Think back, this problem started happening after what event...?
Last edited by joecar; 02-19-2010 at 03:04 AM.
#33
Think back, this problem started happening after what event...?
I walked out of my friends house, started my car and pulled away. About 2 minutes into the drive it just lost all its power and stumbled, backfired and missed all the way home. I could only get it going to about 35 mph, thats all it would do without hurting anything.
So it just happened out of the blue.
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#34
#35
#36
** Connect a spark tester on the end of the plug wire (where the spark plug goes) and check the arc quality there...
if the arc is not good, then inspect the wire for cracks/holes/burns, ohm it (while bending/unbending it), swap with a known good wire and test again (see **).
if the arc is still not good, remove the coil, inspect it for cracks/holes/burns, swap with a known good coil and test again (see **).
if the arc is still bad, then check the following:
- wire harness,
- ground connections (block, LHS head, chassis),
- PCM.
Also, do you see the correct RPM...?
#37
The arc seeks the easiest path to ground... that's why you have to provide a definite path... if you just see it arcing in on itself that may be bad...
** Connect a spark tester on the end of the plug wire (where the spark plug goes) and check the arc quality there...
if the arc is not good, then inspect the wire for cracks/holes/burns, ohm it (while bending/unbending it), swap with a known good wire and test again (see **).
if the arc is still not good, remove the coil, inspect it for cracks/holes/burns, swap with a known good coil and test again (see **).
if the arc is still bad, then check the following:
- wire harness,
- ground connections (block, LHS head, chassis),
- PCM.
Also, do you see the correct RPM...?
** Connect a spark tester on the end of the plug wire (where the spark plug goes) and check the arc quality there...
if the arc is not good, then inspect the wire for cracks/holes/burns, ohm it (while bending/unbending it), swap with a known good wire and test again (see **).
if the arc is still not good, remove the coil, inspect it for cracks/holes/burns, swap with a known good coil and test again (see **).
if the arc is still bad, then check the following:
- wire harness,
- ground connections (block, LHS head, chassis),
- PCM.
Also, do you see the correct RPM...?
Now I need to get a new one before I can do anything. If I get it back together with the new camshaft sensor and its still misfiring and going nuts I'll then put a new crankshaft sensor in. If its still misfiring on all wires......I'll have to look at the PCM I guess, maybe its toast. Spark plugs are new, wires are good. I can't see 6 wires going bad all at once....or 6 coils going bad at one time.
When I get it back together if the new sensor(s) don't help, I'll have to weed other things out one by one.
The rpm guage is working fine.
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#38
coolant temp sensor? are you serious... take your car to a mechanic. although yes it is possible that it could be a cam position sensor. I would not recommend taking the intake off, although ls1s have a dry intake, witch makes it nice and easy (for someone who knows what there doing)
#39
coolant temp sensor? are you serious... take your car to a mechanic. although yes it is possible that it could be a cam position sensor. I would not recommend taking the intake off, although ls1s have a dry intake, witch makes it nice and easy (for someone who knows what there doing)
So I tapped a sharp philips head screwdriver into the brass piece that was stuck in the head and spun it out, and waited till my new sensor was in.
I got the intake off in less than an hour, first time. It was easy. I needed to change my OPSU anyway. And the intake was nasty dirty with burnt on oil so I got it cleaned out.
Its got to be the cam sensor thats causing the problems. Everything else to do with misfiring has been checked. Possibly the crank shaft sensor. No need to give it to a mechanic when I can do all this stuff myself. They would charge $400 to remove and reinstall an intake.
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#40
First of all...................
SUMBITCH BAG OF MONKEY NUTS
Listen to this ****.....
I put everything back together with a new "camshaft position sensor" and its the same ****....missing like crazy.
BUT.....after it ran for about 2 minutes I shut it off and went over and felt each long tube. The passengers side, all 4 were frying hot......the drivers side, all 4 were cool, maybe a tad bit warm to the touch like they never fired or maybe fired a few times only, if at all. Could have been the warm coolant making it across to them, thats how little warmth I felt.
So what the hell would make just the passengers side 4 cylinders NOT fire, and the passengers side fires fine?
Going out to get shitfaced after this crapola......
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SUMBITCH BAG OF MONKEY NUTS
Listen to this ****.....
I put everything back together with a new "camshaft position sensor" and its the same ****....missing like crazy.
BUT.....after it ran for about 2 minutes I shut it off and went over and felt each long tube. The passengers side, all 4 were frying hot......the drivers side, all 4 were cool, maybe a tad bit warm to the touch like they never fired or maybe fired a few times only, if at all. Could have been the warm coolant making it across to them, thats how little warmth I felt.
So what the hell would make just the passengers side 4 cylinders NOT fire, and the passengers side fires fine?
Going out to get shitfaced after this crapola......
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