Easiest way to check for bad coils........
02-20-2010, 06:39 PM
#41
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Location: rosemount,mn/windsor locks,ct
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First of all...................
SUMBITCH BAG OF MONKEY NUTS
Listen to this ****.....
I put everything back together with a new "camshaft position sensor" and its the same ****....missing like crazy.
BUT.....after it ran for about 2 minutes I shut it off and went over and felt each long tube. The passengers side, all 4 were frying hot......the drivers side, all 4 were cool, maybe a tad bit warm to the touch like they never fired or maybe fired a few times only, if at all. Could have been the warm coolant making it across to them, thats how little warmth I felt.
So what the hell would make just the passengers side 4 cylinders NOT fire, and the passengers side fires fine?
Going out to get shitfaced after this crapola......
.
SUMBITCH BAG OF MONKEY NUTS
Listen to this ****.....
I put everything back together with a new "camshaft position sensor" and its the same ****....missing like crazy.
BUT.....after it ran for about 2 minutes I shut it off and went over and felt each long tube. The passengers side, all 4 were frying hot......the drivers side, all 4 were cool, maybe a tad bit warm to the touch like they never fired or maybe fired a few times only, if at all. Could have been the warm coolant making it across to them, thats how little warmth I felt.
So what the hell would make just the passengers side 4 cylinders NOT fire, and the passengers side fires fine?
Going out to get shitfaced after this crapola......
.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...k-harness.html
02-21-2010, 11:35 AM
#43
like i said double/triple check the coil harness's
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...k-harness.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...k-harness.html
You think its the PCM? Or the plug going into the PCM?
The harness looks normal and good.
.
02-21-2010, 11:56 AM
#46
I just started it up again......out of nowhere 2 of the cylinders started firing randomly on the drivers side, but not in a proper sequence. The two pipes got hot and the other two stayed cold.
I shook and moved everything I could think of from the PCM to the coils to the fuse box wiring harness.
.
I shook and moved everything I could think of from the PCM to the coils to the fuse box wiring harness.
.
02-21-2010, 03:26 PM
#47
TECH Senior Member
Inspect the pins on the coil and connector for those two cylinders... do they look bent or dirty...?
Try this: spray both sides with MAF cleaner (not brake cleaner), blow them out with air, apply a small amount of Vaseline, and reconnect... when you reconnect a connector, you have to be careful as you push it together, line it up straight and don't force it... (also when disconnecting, pull on the connector and not the wires, pull slowly, don't force it)
(when you had those disconnected before did you tape them up with masking tape to keep out dirt while you worked...?)
You may have to pop out each of the pins in the coil connector and carefully bend the inside to make it tighter... need a pick tool or maybe a tiny screwdriver to pop them out.
Also check the grounds G110 and G112 (behind LHS head), see attached diagrams... #1,3,5,7 are LHS.
Try this: spray both sides with MAF cleaner (not brake cleaner), blow them out with air, apply a small amount of Vaseline, and reconnect... when you reconnect a connector, you have to be careful as you push it together, line it up straight and don't force it... (also when disconnecting, pull on the connector and not the wires, pull slowly, don't force it)
(when you had those disconnected before did you tape them up with masking tape to keep out dirt while you worked...?)
You may have to pop out each of the pins in the coil connector and carefully bend the inside to make it tighter... need a pick tool or maybe a tiny screwdriver to pop them out.
Also check the grounds G110 and G112 (behind LHS head), see attached diagrams... #1,3,5,7 are LHS.
Last edited by joecar; 02-21-2010 at 03:41 PM.
02-22-2010, 03:14 PM
#48
First of all...................
SUMBITCH BAG OF MONKEY NUTS
Listen to this ****.....
I put everything back together with a new "camshaft position sensor" and its the same ****....missing like crazy.
BUT.....after it ran for about 2 minutes I shut it off and went over and felt each long tube. The passengers side, all 4 were frying hot......the drivers side, all 4 were cool, maybe a tad bit warm to the touch like they never fired or maybe fired a few times only, if at all. Could have been the warm coolant making it across to them, thats how little warmth I felt.
So what the hell would make just the passengers side 4 cylinders NOT fire, and the passengers side fires fine?
Going out to get shitfaced after this crapola......
.
SUMBITCH BAG OF MONKEY NUTS
Listen to this ****.....
I put everything back together with a new "camshaft position sensor" and its the same ****....missing like crazy.
BUT.....after it ran for about 2 minutes I shut it off and went over and felt each long tube. The passengers side, all 4 were frying hot......the drivers side, all 4 were cool, maybe a tad bit warm to the touch like they never fired or maybe fired a few times only, if at all. Could have been the warm coolant making it across to them, thats how little warmth I felt.
So what the hell would make just the passengers side 4 cylinders NOT fire, and the passengers side fires fine?
Going out to get shitfaced after this crapola......
.
hey, switch the outside wires on your cam position sensor, its a common problem, some of the sensors are backwards, it happened to me, i didnt loose the whole half but my car would barely idle and ran rough, some people loose their tac, most loose half their motor, but i didnt, when i switched the two wires it ran perfect...
its easy to repin the two wires, i did it on my front mount cam sensor without jacking the car up and in like 2 minutes...
02-22-2010, 04:03 PM
#49
Inspect the pins on the coil and connector for those two cylinders... do they look bent or dirty...?
Try this: spray both sides with MAF cleaner (not brake cleaner), blow them out with air, apply a small amount of Vaseline, and reconnect... when you reconnect a connector, you have to be careful as you push it together, line it up straight and don't force it... (also when disconnecting, pull on the connector and not the wires, pull slowly, don't force it)
(when you had those disconnected before did you tape them up with masking tape to keep out dirt while you worked...?)
You may have to pop out each of the pins in the coil connector and carefully bend the inside to make it tighter... need a pick tool or maybe a tiny screwdriver to pop them out.
Also check the grounds G110 and G112 (behind LHS head), see attached diagrams... #1,3,5,7 are LHS.
Try this: spray both sides with MAF cleaner (not brake cleaner), blow them out with air, apply a small amount of Vaseline, and reconnect... when you reconnect a connector, you have to be careful as you push it together, line it up straight and don't force it... (also when disconnecting, pull on the connector and not the wires, pull slowly, don't force it)
(when you had those disconnected before did you tape them up with masking tape to keep out dirt while you worked...?)
You may have to pop out each of the pins in the coil connector and carefully bend the inside to make it tighter... need a pick tool or maybe a tiny screwdriver to pop them out.
Also check the grounds G110 and G112 (behind LHS head), see attached diagrams... #1,3,5,7 are LHS.
#43, #44, #45 pins. #43 and #44 look burnt and #45 a little bit burnt. Are these for the drivers side coils or fuel injectors?
The pins on the PCM look burnt too. When I went to touch them, they are all very stiff, except one.....its loose and feels like it wants to fall off. Guess I'm screwed and need a new PCM....right?
Last edited by LS6427; 02-22-2010 at 04:15 PM.
02-22-2010, 04:06 PM
#50
hey, switch the outside wires on your cam position sensor, its a common problem, some of the sensors are backwards, it happened to me, i didnt loose the whole half but my car would barely idle and ran rough, some people loose their tac, most loose half their motor, but i didnt, when i switched the two wires it ran perfect...
its easy to repin the two wires, i did it on my front mount cam sensor without jacking the car up and in like 2 minutes...
its easy to repin the two wires, i did it on my front mount cam sensor without jacking the car up and in like 2 minutes...
You talking about the wires for the plug to the cam sensor?
.
02-22-2010, 07:21 PM
#51
TECH Senior Member
Look what I found. This is from the forward plug strip that connects to the top of the PCM.
#43, #44, #45 pins. #43 and #44 look burnt and #45 a little bit burnt. Are these for the drivers side coils or fuel injectors?
The pins on the PCM look burnt too. When I went to touch them, they are all very stiff, except one.....its loose and feels like it wants to fall off. Guess I'm screwed and need a new PCM....right?
#43, #44, #45 pins. #43 and #44 look burnt and #45 a little bit burnt. Are these for the drivers side coils or fuel injectors?
The pins on the PCM look burnt too. When I went to touch them, they are all very stiff, except one.....its loose and feels like it wants to fall off. Guess I'm screwed and need a new PCM....right?
Post some more pics from different angles...
PCM's can be had for about $100 or less.
Is this on your 1998...?
If that's the RED connector:
43 DK/GRN 335 Cooling Fan Relay #1 Control
44 YEL 573 Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal Input
45 DK GRN/WHT 428 EVAP Canister Purge Valve Control
If that's the BLUE connector:
43 GRY 596 TP Sensor 5V Reference
44-45 Not Used
Last edited by joecar; 02-22-2010 at 07:28 PM.
02-22-2010, 08:02 PM
#52
Can you look at the crimps and see if you can clean them up and carefully tighten them...
Post some more pics from different angles...
PCM's can be had for about $100 or less.
Is this on your 1998...?
If that's the RED connector:
43 DK/GRN 335 Cooling Fan Relay #1 Control
44 YEL 573 Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal Input
45 DK GRN/WHT 428 EVAP Canister Purge Valve Control
If that's the BLUE connector:
43 GRY 596 TP Sensor 5V Reference
44-45 Not Used
Post some more pics from different angles...
PCM's can be had for about $100 or less.
Is this on your 1998...?
If that's the RED connector:
43 DK/GRN 335 Cooling Fan Relay #1 Control
44 YEL 573 Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal Input
45 DK GRN/WHT 428 EVAP Canister Purge Valve Control
If that's the BLUE connector:
43 GRY 596 TP Sensor 5V Reference
44-45 Not Used
Yes, its my 1998 pcm. Service #16238212
I have this:
43 DK/GRN 335 Cooling Fan Relay #1 Control
44 YEL 573 Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal Input
45 DK GRN/WHT 428 EVAP Canister Purge Valve Control
What pluig do you mean that is red or blue?
Here's some more pics of the pins on the pcm. The pin thats bent is 43.
The row where the bent and slightly burnt/dirty looking pins are 43,44,45 is clearly discolored. The other rows are crystal clean, no discoloration, looks like new.
Pic #1.....shows all 4 rows, and the pin is not bent over in that pic. But you can see that that row is all dark and discolored, unlike the other 3 rows.
Pic #2......I touched the pin barely and it fell over to the side.
Pic #3......up close shot of a different row. The other 3 rows look great.
Pic #4......the bad row
Last edited by LS6427; 02-22-2010 at 10:36 PM.
