DuoDS

Has anyone ever tried to fix this issue with a Durafix Alumaloy aluminum brazing rod?

There are quite a few excellent demo's at their site and on youtube. Seems like this rod is the answer to all "cast aluminum" repair prayers. Check out their video demonstration.

As far as I can figure from engineering sites on the Internet, it should be more than strong enough to reattach the starter tabs and rebuild the bolt threads. No welding required, just a torch capable of 732 degrees.

(correct my figures if I am wrong)

LS1 block (319-T5 aluminum) tensile strength = 23,000 psi.
Regular 6061 aluminum tensile strength = 45,000 psi.
Durafix tensile strength = 47,000 psi.

If these figures are correct, any repairs done to an LS1 block with Durafix would outlast the block.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Whatever it was he had to fix mine....it was a rod that he fed into the welding area after he got the area hot using his electrical clamp and foot pedal.

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DuoDS

What you saw him do with the welding electrode and the foot pedal was TIG welding. It is an excellent way to fix aluminum, but it is expensive, especially for a house-call.

What I am talking about is a similar method that can be done by the common handy-man with a butane torch, and is reported to be just as strong (or stronger) when done correctly.

You can get Alumiweld rods (same stuff, different brand) from Harbor Freight for a very reasonable cost. $15 for about 8 sticks, I think.

You need no flux, there are no fumes, you can repair or join any non-ferrous metal (even dissimilar metals) as thin as the bottom of a popcan, and the weld produced is stronger than the aluminum surrounding it.

I am seriously looking into this for things like radiator repair, cast aluminum repair, and if it works as good as they say it does, even for some light aluminum fabrication.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Hmmm, sounds pretty cool.

Yeah, he didn't charge me as much as the other shops wanted that required me to bring them the block out of the car. Couple hundred dollars was all. A few shops wanted like $300 just to come out with no guarantee they could even fix it.

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Scira

iTrader: (4)

Is this what yours looked like? I'm dreading having to get this thing fixed. The piece that's still around the bolt is what came off of the block

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

So the tab on the starter broke off where the short bolt goes....and that piece thats still on the bolt is the longer bolt, right?????

Thats what happened to mine. The longer bolt mount broke, pretty much just like that, in half.

Well, at least we know it can be done without taking anything off like the LT's or tranny. My guy did it quite easily really. You just need to talk a welder into laying on his back in your driveway with the front end up on ramps.....or, better yet, tell them to meet you at a shop that will let you use a lift...it will make the job easier for the welder and maybe make them agree to try. I spoke to about 6 welders that said they won't even try unless I brought them the motor out of the car.

And make sure you get the truck starter....don't get the same one you have with one long bolt and one short bolt. It will happen again.

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myk

iTrader: (4)

Wow, was your car being held up by the jack only? That welder of yours has got some guts, lol. Glad you got it fixed...

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

The truck starter will not fix this issue, properly tightened starter bolts WILL. End of thread.

Hondo78

iTrader: (1)

I hate to ask at a time of loss, however I could use a bare block with main caps for alignment of a rigid shaft set up in my Drag boat, should someone need to upgrade.

-Roger

HotSilverBird

BS

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

No, I have two tire ramps under each tire as safety stands. If the jack failed it would drop onto the ramps. I didn't have jack stands.

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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Loose bolts on anything should result in breakage of parts, but its pretty plain to see that the NEW truck starter design is WAY beefed up on that side using the longer bolt and a ton more aluminum in that area. And to prove you wrong......my bolt was crazy tight when I went to take it off after the starter broke. It wasn't at all loose. The bolt was still in place tight with the broken mount tab.

So you're just wrong, the bolts were tight, so at least in my case the starter mount broke even with a tight bolt.

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01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Longer bolts create more direct clamping force??? OK tweedle dum

HotSilverBird

You have no idea...its not the longer bolt that makes it stronger...its the new starter housing that can't break off...now stop adding BS to this thread.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

wow!!!!!


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01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Are yall two sisters? girlfriends? lovers?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Just kind of shocked that you're so ****** stupid not to see how a small tab of aluminum for the inner mount (older starter) is going to be just as strong as the shitload of built up aluminum that makes up the mount on the (newer starter).

At this point, its safe to say you're a DUMBASS!!!!!!

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01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

And you have a degree in mechanical engineering? I didn't think so dipshit.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

For you to think someone needs a friggin degree to tell if a newly designed part is better than an older part.....that GM RE-designed for some strange reason....TELLS ALOT ABOUT YOUR POSTS!!!!!!


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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

And this is just plain stupid too........the amount of threads on the new longer bolt that actually go into the starter mount on the block are identical to the older shorter bolt......so the clamping force is the same EINSTIEN........

Its the starter itself that was made stronger.

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