Starter motor mount on block....broke.....
01-27-2012, 09:00 AM
#141
TECH Apprentice
The length of the both has nothing to do with the issue. The length of the bolt is only used in this thread to describe the design of the newer type starter bracket, as 2 long bolts are needed to mount the starter instead of only the 1 that is on the older design already. It is the old design of the starter bracket that is creating the problem. One side of the starter bracket runs the vertical length of the starter. The other side of the bracket is more of a tab which can break over time. This breakage can happen with normal use, or during a hydrolock of the engine as in my case. Look at the pictures below.
This thread has some very valuable information in it and it is not that long at all. You should go back and start at the beginning of the thread and read ALL the post, not just skim through it. You will gain some very valuable information if you do.
10-09-2012, 07:11 PM
#147
Go back through the thread and you'll clearly see it in the pictures people posted.
junkman2008.....he posted it at the top of this page......
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10-09-2012, 07:54 PM
#148
TECH Apprentice
I may as well add some new info to this thread that I found. There is a work around for those with a busted block that doesn't require getting the block welded. Someone fabricated a bracket that bolts up to the broken block and make the starter solid as the Rock of Gibraltar. It mounts up to some existing holes on the block and also uses two of the bell housing bolts. Look at the pictures below for more clarity. It's called a starter bridge.
Look at the picture of starter bridge. The hole labeled #2 goes into the block where the broken screw hole is in the picture of my broken block (labeled #2 on the engine picture also). That area will probably have to be grind down so that the bracket is flush against the block to some degree.
Number 3 on the starter bracket goes to hole #1 on the engine block. Number 1 on the starter bracket goes to the bottom of the starter, which aligns with the hole that is busted on my block (labeled #2 on the engine picture).
Holes #4 & #5 on the starter bracket will go where the two, bottom bell housing bolts are on the engine. You'll remove those two bolts and use them as two of the starter bracket mounting screws.
So that's how it mounts. Now here's the kicker. The guy wants $370 for the bracket. That price is smokin' crack. He did have it listed for $350 but he has since raised the price. Here's his site. I only paid $220 to have mine welded bck together and the guy who welded it guaranteed it for life.
Here's a picture of it in place.
Look at the picture of starter bridge. The hole labeled #2 goes into the block where the broken screw hole is in the picture of my broken block (labeled #2 on the engine picture also). That area will probably have to be grind down so that the bracket is flush against the block to some degree.
Number 3 on the starter bracket goes to hole #1 on the engine block. Number 1 on the starter bracket goes to the bottom of the starter, which aligns with the hole that is busted on my block (labeled #2 on the engine picture).
Holes #4 & #5 on the starter bracket will go where the two, bottom bell housing bolts are on the engine. You'll remove those two bolts and use them as two of the starter bracket mounting screws.
So that's how it mounts. Now here's the kicker. The guy wants $370 for the bracket. That price is smokin' crack. He did have it listed for $350 but he has since raised the price. Here's his site. I only paid $220 to have mine welded bck together and the guy who welded it guaranteed it for life.
Here's a picture of it in place.
10-09-2012, 09:13 PM
#149
Because the holes where the two long bolts go through are beefed up all the way around that area. One of the holes is not just a small tab that the older short bolt went through.
Go back through the thread and you'll clearly see it in the pictures people posted.
junkman2008.....he posted it at the top of this page......
.
Go back through the thread and you'll clearly see it in the pictures people posted.
junkman2008.....he posted it at the top of this page......
.
I didnt mean visually...Of course if I walk into Autoone I can look at it, but ONLINE is WAAAAYcheaper. You can't see what youre ordering online. Thats why I wanted a part #.
10-10-2012, 02:20 AM
#150
TECH Apprentice
Then why are you not using the part numbers that I posted in this thread? I posted the company, a picture of the box that my starter came in AND the part numbers right on the box.
10-10-2012, 08:45 AM
#151
Because yours is a Re-man. Re-man parts are boxed according to application. I could easily get an old model starter just as easily as the new one. You have to remember the particular starter had to go bad to get re-built, and those are more likely to be the old ones.
10-10-2012, 09:00 AM
#152
TECH Apprentice
Because yours is a Re-man. Re-man parts are boxed according to application. I could easily get an old model starter just as easily as the new one. You have to remember the particular starter had to go bad to get re-built, and those are more likely to be the old ones.
You have to remember, that starter was introduced in 1997. We're in 2012. They probably quit making that exact model by 2005. I'm sure the truck starter runs along the same lines. I didn't ask for the truck starter when I bought mine, I asked for a starter for a 2001 Corvette. What you see in the picture is what the part guy gave me. Obviously, GM realized that they had a problem as discontinued the version with the short bolt.
So is it that you want a new one or what are you looking for?
EDIT: If you are buying it online, they usually post a picture of what you are buying. If you can't call the parts place up and talk to them directly, I wouldn't be buying it online from them. Also, what savings you think you may be getting online may not be worth the headache of getting the wrong part, especially a part as cheap as a starter. It's not like they cost THAT much or you are going to save THAT much money, especially after shipping cost are factored in.
Last edited by Junkman2008; 10-10-2012 at 09:09 AM.
10-10-2012, 06:50 PM
#153
Well I ended up buying one from Rock-Auto for $90, brand new. I called them to verify it was a dual long bolt starter.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&parttype=4152
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&parttype=4152
10-10-2012, 09:48 PM
#154
TECH Apprentice
Well I ended up buying one from Rock-Auto for $90, brand new. I called them to verify it was a dual long bolt starter.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&parttype=4152
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&parttype=4152
10-10-2012, 10:10 PM
#155
10-12-2012, 03:48 PM
#159
Pretty good weld. Did the hole line up or did you have to drill and tap??
Your the second person I know of that was able to do it in the car. My welder did mine in my driveway pretty quick, I couldn't believe it. I really thought I was screwed and had to take the engine out.......
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Your the second person I know of that was able to do it in the car. My welder did mine in my driveway pretty quick, I couldn't believe it. I really thought I was screwed and had to take the engine out.......
.