car wont start ugh stupid vats I think!
04-21-2010, 12:41 AM
#1
Staging Lane
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car wont start ugh stupid vats I think! drove my car today to work then around town, had an emissions inspection done, got home and parked then later tried to start again and nothing. It acts like power is there (can turn key back to accessory and radio works etc) turn to on and lights kick on, pump etc. but nothing when try to turn engine over. When i turn key to on and the gauges cycle the security light blinks and stays that way. I have tried both my keys and let it sit for a fey minutes and repeated process and same results. What should I use to clean the key and key cylinder? I checked my battery connections (disconnected and reconnected)
I did recently install the autotrix passenger window fix and a new pass window motor so I was working in the area under the passenger side dash, is it likely i damaged something with the vats that's under there!
I would imagine getting the emissions test shouldn't have had an effect.
I also swapped the starter relay with another in the fuse box and no difference.
I did recently install the autotrix passenger window fix and a new pass window motor so I was working in the area under the passenger side dash, is it likely i damaged something with the vats that's under there!
I would imagine getting the emissions test shouldn't have had an effect.
I also swapped the starter relay with another in the fuse box and no difference.
04-21-2010, 08:56 AM
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Its common that the Vats wires break in the column; it happened on my 99 SS. I drove to the local parts store, came out, got in car, and no start...but had full power for everything else. I bought a new battery, swapped the relays and evewn swapping the clutch switch...no go. I had to have it flatbedded back home. I called a local locksmith who makes vats keys since they were cheaper then my local dealer (that was before I got my job as a GM parts guy). The locksm ith I called also does lock cylinders and told me its possible that one or both of the wires broke. He has a device that bypasses the vats system. When he plugged it in, if the car started then the wires were broke if not then theres another problem; for me it was the wires because the car started just fine with the box attached. He replaced the ignition cylinder (comes with new wires) and gave me two new vats keys for about $280.00 and did it right in my driveway.
I would check to make sure you didn't unplug anything or cut any wires while you were installing that kit and if that doesn't work, clean your keys really well with alcohol and if that doesn't work...you can go cheap and solder in resistors that measure the same resistance as the keys resistor (you have to measure the key resistance with an ohm meter) but by doing that you're removing the theft deterent system. You could also probably have the vats disabled via programming too but you would still lose that system. I persaonlly would have the cylinder checked by a locksmith that has the device.
I would check to make sure you didn't unplug anything or cut any wires while you were installing that kit and if that doesn't work, clean your keys really well with alcohol and if that doesn't work...you can go cheap and solder in resistors that measure the same resistance as the keys resistor (you have to measure the key resistance with an ohm meter) but by doing that you're removing the theft deterent system. You could also probably have the vats disabled via programming too but you would still lose that system. I persaonlly would have the cylinder checked by a locksmith that has the device.
04-21-2010, 09:04 PM
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Staging Lane
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I will try and get under the dash tonight to see if anything seems out of place, What should I be looking for, just a standard looking relay with wires going to it?
I found this on it
http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html
I am a little unclear on some of it so I will post it here
(If the key pellet is the wrong value, the TDM will not send signals to allow the starter to engage or fuel to the engine. The TDM will shut down for ~3 minutes and the SECURITY lamp will remain lit with the key ON or OFF. When the ~3 minute timer has expired and the key is cycled from OFF to ON, the TDM timer is reset. If you try a key with the correct pellet value, the engine should start and run. SECURITY lamp should be off. If there is still a problem with reading the key, the TDM will light the SECURITY lamp and start the ~3 minute timer again.)
Is it saying if the pellet is wrong the Security light will stay lit (not blinking) even after I cycle key from neutral to ON then back again and remove the key?
When i go from run to neutral and remove the key the security light is off.
This one below sounds like my scenario
(If the sensing contact circuit is open or shorted (cannot read the key) or a defective key is used at the time the ignition is turned ON, the SECURITY lamp will flash at a rate of once per second and the engine will not start. No three minute lockout will begin.)
The security light blinks when I turn ignition to on and the gauges cycle up and stays blinking during the time I try to turn the engine over and stops blinking only when I turn back to neutral and remove the key!
If that's the case and the circuit is open or shorted is it for certain that the problem lies between the key cylinder and the theft module and or the key itself, and not the relay part by the glove box?
(# Prove wiring is good from key lock cylinder to connector under steering column (use a meter)) How do I do this?
I found this on it
http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html
I am a little unclear on some of it so I will post it here
(If the key pellet is the wrong value, the TDM will not send signals to allow the starter to engage or fuel to the engine. The TDM will shut down for ~3 minutes and the SECURITY lamp will remain lit with the key ON or OFF. When the ~3 minute timer has expired and the key is cycled from OFF to ON, the TDM timer is reset. If you try a key with the correct pellet value, the engine should start and run. SECURITY lamp should be off. If there is still a problem with reading the key, the TDM will light the SECURITY lamp and start the ~3 minute timer again.)
Is it saying if the pellet is wrong the Security light will stay lit (not blinking) even after I cycle key from neutral to ON then back again and remove the key?
When i go from run to neutral and remove the key the security light is off.
This one below sounds like my scenario
(If the sensing contact circuit is open or shorted (cannot read the key) or a defective key is used at the time the ignition is turned ON, the SECURITY lamp will flash at a rate of once per second and the engine will not start. No three minute lockout will begin.)
The security light blinks when I turn ignition to on and the gauges cycle up and stays blinking during the time I try to turn the engine over and stops blinking only when I turn back to neutral and remove the key!
If that's the case and the circuit is open or shorted is it for certain that the problem lies between the key cylinder and the theft module and or the key itself, and not the relay part by the glove box?
(# Prove wiring is good from key lock cylinder to connector under steering column (use a meter)) How do I do this?
