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Are "tilt pens" (i'm guessing tilt Pins?) something that I can replace using the info/photos already listed in this thread? I'll be pissed if this was something they could have just replaced while they were holding me by the hips without buying me dinner first...
So what component causes the column to pull down and left? Mine does this and I have no idea why. Had my column pulled apart once to install a new key cylinder and attempted to observe what was wrong... couldn't tell. I was hesitant to go any further. Any idea what the culprit is?
So what component causes the column to pull down and left? Mine does this and I have no idea why. Had my column pulled apart once to install a new key cylinder and attempted to observe what was wrong... couldn't tell. I was hesitant to go any further. Any idea what the culprit is?
You got me man. If you figure it out, let me know. I've had the column fully apart twice now and couldn't find anything visibly wrong/loose/etc.
Its a really irritating problem because it's fairly common but nobody really knows the cause. Sounds far easier to buy a new one..
While in the column I could only see two things that could be considered "wear items", I don't know the proper names so bear with me......
-White plastic ball coupler that connects the main shaft to the stub shaft
-Race bearings
But I'm not sure either one would cause the issue we are having. The white plastic ball coupler merely connects the two shafts together and is basically 'independent' of the frame/etc. The race bearings allow the stub shaft to turn without any slop. If they were worn I assume the wheel would feel loose when going around a 90 degree turn.
This then begins to point at the tilt mechanism itself. The upper housing connects to the lower housing with two pivot pins. My lower housing bolts (the E8 or standard bolts, whatever yours has) were tight, and the pivot pins "felt tight" in the lower housing. Then......
Protius posted before after taking his car to the dealership. "The receipt said: Tightened Tilt Bolts but Tilt Pins Are Worn Out. Needs Steering Column. Customer Declined."
This could mean that the lower housing is worn since it is aluminum. I don't know what is stronger- the housing material or the pivot pin material..... meaning would one wear faster than the other?!?!? Could this be the root cause?
I ain't gonna lie, this looks pretty intimidating and I'm highly mechanically inclined. I plan on swapping out my upper steering shaft to install a Vette wheel eventually when I get all the parts together.
While in the column I could only see two things that could be considered "wear items", I don't know the proper names so bear with me......
-White plastic ball coupler that connects the main shaft to the stub shaft
-Race bearings
But I'm not sure either one would cause the issue we are having. The white plastic ball coupler merely connects the two shafts together and is basically 'independent' of the frame/etc. The race bearings allow the stub shaft to turn without any slop. If they were worn I assume the wheel would feel loose when going around a 90 degree turn.
This then begins to point at the tilt mechanism itself. The upper housing connects to the lower housing with two pivot pins. My lower housing bolts (the E8 or standard bolts, whatever yours has) were tight, and the pivot pins "felt tight" in the lower housing. Then......
Protius posted before after taking his car to the dealership. "The receipt said: Tightened Tilt Bolts but Tilt Pins Are Worn Out. Needs Steering Column. Customer Declined."
This could mean that the lower housing is worn since it is aluminum. I don't know what is stronger- the housing material or the pivot pin material..... meaning would one wear faster than the other?!?!? Could this be the root cause?
Same issue here. I've had mine apart three times now. Replaced the Hexagon Washer Tap Head Screws with Loctite and replaced the Steering Pivot Pins with thicker ones from UE. Still have play in down left and what feels like up right as well. Felling
04-25-2016, 04:59 PM
