A/C Problem
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: San Antonio
A/C Problem Ok the story is a few years ago i was installing my cam and poped a line. I was stationed up in washington and never used the a/c. So for 2 1/2 years it wasn't turned on. Had the line replaced and recharged. It sat for 9 more months while i was in Iraq so i don't know if the a/c actually blew cold. Now i'm driving the car every now and then. The a/c blows and never gets cold. When the ac is on max it sits at 35psi. The clutch is spinning.
Any Ideas?
Brad
Any Ideas?
Brad
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Tulsa, OK
You probably have a leak that needs to be fixed before you charge it again. This shows the problems with only looking at the low side pressure. If you check the high side, it'll probably be the same 35 psi.
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2010
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the only real way to know how much refrigerant there is in the system is to have it collected out until the system is purged empty and put the correct amount of refrigerant in. Which for most 4th gen Fbodys should be 1.5 lbs.
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TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Tulsa, OK
Engine rpm has no affect at all on A/C system pressures, it's the same at idle as it is at 5000 revs. An overcharge won't keep the system from cooling, but it may cause it to shut down on high pressure.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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BS I've done ac for 35 years or so........ you are way off in everything you post about it. You're trying to tell me the compressor is at full output at ilde! BS and overcharging IS one of the most common reasons for poor cooling in a orfice tube system.... Better look up some info before you post up garbage! AND noway is that system going to be cold @ 35psi! Go look up gm's specs on how to test that system!
People before you take ANYONES advice please think!!!!!
GO BUY A Factory service manual and do it right. Factory spec is 28-32 psi@2k rpms
People before you take ANYONES advice please think!!!!!
GO BUY A Factory service manual and do it right. Factory spec is 28-32 psi@2k rpms
Last edited by HotSilverBird; Sep 7, 2010 at 10:51 PM.
Banned
Joined: Mar 2010
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Here is a easy test for a GM system like yours. 75 degree plus day....engine rpm 2k........low side psi 28-32........inlet and outlet on evap same temp. PEREFCT. If the outlet is warmer than the inlet and the pressure is below 28 ADD coolant 134a....if the outlet warmer than the inlet and the pressure is above 32 psi remove coolant.
Anyone tells you otherwise is FULL OF ****!
That is the APPROVED GM method!
Anyone tells you otherwise is FULL OF ****!
That is the APPROVED GM method!
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Tulsa, OK
BS yourself, not me, I've been doing this for 35 years also. If the evap temp on inlet and outlet are identical, the system isn't working. The point of a HEAT EXCHANGER is to remove heat, and that's all an evaporator is.
Rather than rote memorization of a factory service procedure that you don't understand, try some basic physics.
Rather than rote memorization of a factory service procedure that you don't understand, try some basic physics.
Banned
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 334
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BS yourself, not me, I've been doing this for 35 years also. If the evap temp on inlet and outlet are identical, the system isn't working. The point of a HEAT EXCHANGER is to remove heat, and that's all an evaporator is.
Rather than rote memorization of a factory service procedure that you don't understand, try some basic physics.
Rather than rote memorization of a factory service procedure that you don't understand, try some basic physics.