CRBWS6

iTrader: (1)

Good thread - very helpful info. Hayden 402 (tranny style) installed this weekend.

No holes in air dam + 100 deg air temp + spirited city driving --> PS reservoir temp = 160 deg F.

Update: Random data from 12/1/12 Auto-X event (reservoir temp after 7 runs). Air temp = 78 deg
I didn't run my WS6, but here's what other cars ended up at:

- LS1 TransAm (no stock cooler): 210 deg
- LS1 WS6 (stock cooler): 210 deg
- 350z (tranny type cooler located in front of radiator): 160 deg

I would rather chage to a frame rail type cooler than drill holes in the air dam.

bpalma

iTrader: (1)

I recently installed a B&M 70264 cooler for my P/S system as I suspected my factory cooler was leaking internally. All I did was used the supplied zipties and attached it to rad support? under the car. Probably overkill, but the fluid stays super cool and barely moves past the cold mark.

I do get a bit of a shudder in the steering that wasnt present because, but I figured cuz it was a thermostatically controlled unit there is probably a lil pressure drop at idle which is fine.

Great write up! I didnt cut any park of the hardline on the rack, worked out great.

Conrad

iTrader: (20)

Just purchased the Derail cooler, bye bye factory power steering heater..

robertm

I'm proud to join the fellowship of new power steering coolers.

Sadly, I learned of this thread too late. I discovered the leak due to the power steering pump running low. And all the coolant lines were puffy and soft. So I had quite a mess.

Drain, 1 coolant system flush(removed oily deposits, or so the can said), 3 flushes. Then cleaned reservoir, replaced upper and lower hoses(upper now solid), and flushed 2 more times.

I left the little hoses alone though. The 90 degree one drivers side next to throttle, one on the passenger throttle to radiator, and the overflow one I can't find anywhere. And the heater hoses. They have metal sections in them.

I found this heater hose at autozone, but it looks very strange.
Heater Hose. And routing that seems to be a bear. Do I just need 2 of them?

And any sources for the top 3 little hoses? The overflow one looks especially evil, with a crimped section under the battery. It's the floppiest, but lowest pressure.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

If you are keeping the stock cooler, you don't need to worry about those hoses. They are low pressure hoses and can stay as long as you don't have any issues with them. If you do need to replace them, a dealer can hook you up.

robertm

I replaced the cooler with a small one from Autozone. So it'll never happen again.

The small hoses should still be good I assume. I'm a bit worried about the heater hoses though, but they didn't seem to absorb much oil. It sprung a leak around June, and the heater hasn't seen any use since January.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Ah - I recall the P/S lines being a standard hose. Nothing like a fuel hose or something like that. I wouldn't thnk that the heater hoses would be damaged by a slight exposure to PS fluid.

stevo92z28

iTrader: (22)

My car did not have a factory PS cooler...and i wouldn't have wanted it anyway. Just did this mod with an old trans cooler i had laying around, much needed. No more canyon carving boil overs!

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

very interesting thread protect the power steering pump & the rack seals and internals of the sys. w/ lower fluid temps.

However why mount the cooler behind the air dam where isn't any airflow while in a traffic jam?

Why not mount in front and take advantage of the rad cooling fans and protect the flimsy cooler by mounting higher?

here's my Trans coolers lower is a B&M super cooler parralled w/ the upper el cheapo, I plan on ditching the stock POS PSP cooler since it's a


fuild heater hence WS6 power steering fuild cooler since it basicalley heats fuild to the same temp. as the rad fuild.

I plan the same cooler installation for the Power steering sys. on other side will drill 2 holes though the air dam for the lines.



basicly my 2 cents
plus why no ******* feedback on my 2 recent threads on rack and pinion threads WTF dont be afraid to advice a noob

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Most of this stuff is already addressed in the thread and buried in different sections...

This thread is about rail mounted coolers, which DO NOT need air flowing over them to work. They are designed to be mounted on a frame rail and out of the air stream. These types of coolers can be placed in protected areas if debris is a concern. They also don't muck with the aerodynamics of the car.


Because that would be overkill. This method brings the temps down just fine. The more crap one hangs over the radiator:
- The hotter the air is by the time it gets to the radiator. This would reduce the radiator's efficiency.
- The harder the car has to drive to ram air through all the coolers. This reduces fuel efficiency and can create additional front end down force.


It's not really a "fluid heater." The radiator inlet temp is 210* stock. The outlet has much colder coolant coming out of it, which is where the stock cooler is. The PS fluid coming from the rack is also above 210*, so the stock cooler is not really a "heater." Its a real cooler - just not a good one.


You don't want to do that with this cooler. If you want an airflow style cooler, you'd be better off with a standard transmission style cooler as detailed in LS6427's thread linked in the first post here.


Maybe you should ask nicely? BTW - You should watch out for people who take statements literally. You wrote "******* feedback." Taken literally, that would be feedback from the act of *******. That takes us to Dirty Sanchez or Felching territory, which is probably not what you intended.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

Glad to see this thread is still alive and kicking. I still vote sticky!

NeoLoco

Question: The Derale power steering cooler has 1/2" inlet and outlet and the stuff on the car is 3/8". How can the Derale power steering cooler be setup without using the coupling reducer in the picture above?

Can these coupling reducers, or another part that will do the same thing, be bought at an auto parts store or Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.?

I have the power steering cooler and new radiator hose and I'd like to do the install tomorrow so if anyone can answer this soon I would appreciate it.

NeoLoco

I installed the power steering cooler - the Derale Performance Frame Rail Transmission Fluid Coolers 13224 from Summit and I drained the old coolant, removed the coolant reservoir under the battery and swished water around in it to remove the gunk built up in it, and put new coolant in.

The power steering cooler comes with 11/32" inch hose that is extremely tight. 3/8" hose fits just right. I bought 6 feet of new 3/8" hose and it was a little more than enough to put both new hoses on, and a couple zip ties to keep them away from the belts.

The return line from the rack, that has the hose connected to it, was a little short, so I cut the metal line, and tried to flare it so the new hose would be a little more secure on it. After a few tries using a rented line flaring kit from Advance Auto Parts, it was clear that was not going to flare the line because it is a pretty thick metal line, so I just used 2 hose clamps and it looks like it will be fine.

Flushing the old fluid, with someone turning the wheel with the engine on and me pouring new fluid into the power steering reservoir, didn't work well, but it worked. With the car on, the front wheels off the ground, and someone turning the wheel, you have to pour the fluid in extremely fast, as it is spraying out of the hose at a high velocity. I used 5 quarts of fluid for the flush in about a minute. After the car was started, I probably should've secured the hose to the drain pan because as I was holding the hose with one hand and juggling quarts of power steering fluid and trying to pour them into the reservoir, the hose missed the pan for a few seconds and I got a good half gallon of power steering fluid on the floor and that stuff made the floor feel like I was ice skating on it.

The steering feels a lot better now, without the factory power steering cooler and the mix of coolant and power steering fluid, and hopefully the fluid won't be boiling over after an autocross run like it was before. Thanks, y'all for the information in the thread.

Coy

iTrader: (4)

Did this about 8 months ago. No more boilovers, but I do believe I need a new cap since I get some slight fluid buildup on the outside of the PS resevoir. I clean it and it takes roughly 2-3 months to build up again.

Thanks for this thread. I've helped two other guys who don't get on the forum with the same thing.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Short??? I had to cut mine because it was too long. You are running the return line from the rack back to your new Derale, right? Where did you mount it?

NeoLoco

Yeah, I mounted it right behind the air dam, and the factory hose would barely reach if I stretched the hose but there was a lot of pressure on the hose and the cooler, so I just put a new hose on.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

I picked up a B&M Tranny cooler from the classifieds here and mounted it behind the front air-dam as well. Works pretty good, but I haven't pushed it in a while.

And OP, if you get orders to Cape Cod, I'm out here working for the USCG. Not much room for a muscle car though.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Delete stock PS cooler is now on the list and why is this not a sticky yet?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Still odd for me as I had to cut my hose. Do you think that if you mounted the cooler in a slightly different spot, that the hose would reach?


Thanks - My wife and I are Auxiliarists (unpaid, uniformed civilian volunteers) so we don't travel very often and stay around where I we have paid jobs. If we ever make it to the Cape, we'd definitely be interested in visiting the station!


Done

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

just saw this....and NO.....no splicing in my line.......just put on the hose and tighten with hose clamps