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Power Steering Cooling Success
#541
Factory 1998 original PS pump, original rack, and its still silent and strong. No leaks anywhere. So I think its safe to say the cheapest brand is just as good as the best brand.
There's a lot of things on cars where the expensive stuff is 100% meaningless and will offer absolutely no benefits compared to the cheapest stuff......
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Last edited by LS6427; 05-01-2017 at 08:10 AM.
#542
Been following this thread for a while and finally deleted my factory "cooler" today. My car doesn't have many miles on it, but I wasn't gonna push my luck any longer. After reading the temperature testing RPM WS6 did, I decided to just run the return line back to the reservoir like a 98 or 99 non PSC car. I only use the car for normal driving and keep the PS fluid changed on a regular basis so I saw no need for an aftermarket cooler.
For anyone considering this, it's pretty simple as most have already stated here. I used a Dayco E71981 upper rad hose, cut 9" off the existing PS return hose and hooked it to the reservoir. Done deal and no chance of fluids mixing now.
For anyone considering this, it's pretty simple as most have already stated here. I used a Dayco E71981 upper rad hose, cut 9" off the existing PS return hose and hooked it to the reservoir. Done deal and no chance of fluids mixing now.
#543
Been following this thread for a while and finally deleted my factory "cooler" today. My car doesn't have many miles on it, but I wasn't gonna push my luck any longer. After reading the temperature testing RPM WS6 did, I decided to just run the return line back to the reservoir like a 98 or 99 non PSC car. I only use the car for normal driving and keep the PS fluid changed on a regular basis so I saw no need for an aftermarket cooler.
For anyone considering this, it's pretty simple as most have already stated here. I used a Dayco E71981 upper rad hose, cut 9" off the existing PS return hose and hooked it to the reservoir. Done deal and no chance of fluids mixing now.
For anyone considering this, it's pretty simple as most have already stated here. I used a Dayco E71981 upper rad hose, cut 9" off the existing PS return hose and hooked it to the reservoir. Done deal and no chance of fluids mixing now.
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#544
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 32,381
Likes: 1,809
From: Schiller Park, IL Member: #317
Been following this thread for a while and finally deleted my factory "cooler" today. My car doesn't have many miles on it, but I wasn't gonna push my luck any longer. After reading the temperature testing RPM WS6 did, I decided to just run the return line back to the reservoir like a 98 or 99 non PSC car. I only use the car for normal driving and keep the PS fluid changed on a regular basis so I saw no need for an aftermarket cooler.
#545
I monitored my PS fluids the past 2 yrs after I bypassed the PS heat exchanger. Before the change I would routinely run about 185-190 deg F in the summer heat (85-90 deg ambient). After the change I see up to 190-200 deg F range in summer. During occasional winter driving (35-45 deg F ambient) I checked the temp and it was around 145-160 deg F. No doubt with the heat exchanger it would have heated up faster and gotten hotter. I noticed that when I kept my reservoir at the "full" cold mark, it would tend to burp some fluid out around the cap. So now I run it near the bottom of the normal range and that no longer happens.
I still may install a finned cooler but I'm not too big about cutting a hole in my air dam. Any location that would drop the temp 15-20 deg or more in summer would be fine. I feed and bleed 32 oz of PS fluid after every summer....still using the AC Delco since at $6.50/qt it's not exactly breaking the bank.
I still may install a finned cooler but I'm not too big about cutting a hole in my air dam. Any location that would drop the temp 15-20 deg or more in summer would be fine. I feed and bleed 32 oz of PS fluid after every summer....still using the AC Delco since at $6.50/qt it's not exactly breaking the bank.
#546
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 32,381
Likes: 1,809
From: Schiller Park, IL Member: #317
I noticed that when I kept my reservoir at the "full" cold mark, it would tend to burp some fluid out around the cap. So now I run it near the bottom of the normal range and that no longer happens.
...I feed and bleed 32 oz of PS fluid after every summer....still using the AC Delco since at $6.50/qt it's not exactly breaking the bank.
...I feed and bleed 32 oz of PS fluid after every summer....still using the AC Delco since at $6.50/qt it's not exactly breaking the bank.
I've used a few different fluid brands; AC Delco, Prestone, and Valvoline. All were just standard PS versions, nothing special. No difference in performance as far as I can tell.
#548
And....removing the factory PS fluid cooler (heater) is actually a plus by itself, even if you do not add an aftermarket cooler. Your PS fluid will always run cooler than it did with the factory cooler.
The factory cooler is a "heater" after the engine is warmed up.
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The factory cooler is a "heater" after the engine is warmed up.
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Last edited by LS6427; 05-08-2017 at 07:36 AM.
#549
Exactly. With the coolant temps these cars run at, I couldn't see how it would pull heat out of the PS fluid during normal driving. Between that and the chance of the fluids mixing, I'm glad I got rid of it.
#550
There's absolutely nothing wrong with fluid that is just warm running through the system. There is no need or requirement for it to be HOT.....not even for any kind of road race car. The cooler the better. And I don't mean ice cold.....just warm is all it needs to be.
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#551
The car had 12K miles when I got it....18K now. I've never done a complete PS flush (on this car or any car for that matter). No idea if the previous owner did, though not likely. I've exchanged 32 oz of fluid via the turkey baster method every year since getting it. So that's 5 qts of bleed and feed via the the reservoir or several reservoir refills per quart....on a 1 quart system. Many never change their PS fluid ever and never have an issue in 150K miles. Considering my car is never tracked. Just regular turns on the roadways in normal driving. I do note that when I first crack open the PS reservoir cap, there's a slight pressure under it since it makes a quick "swoosh" sound.
The first drive I took after bypassing the PS cooler (within 1-2 days) it was noted the PS fluid reservoir temp was running 5-10 deg hotter than before. It's been that way ever since. The coolant system was thoroughly flushed at 12K miles (2012). Last summer I did a pair of feed and bleed on the radiator over a couple week period with 2 gallons of 50/50 DexCool. Both systems are clean.
The first drive I took after bypassing the PS cooler (within 1-2 days) it was noted the PS fluid reservoir temp was running 5-10 deg hotter than before. It's been that way ever since. The coolant system was thoroughly flushed at 12K miles (2012). Last summer I did a pair of feed and bleed on the radiator over a couple week period with 2 gallons of 50/50 DexCool. Both systems are clean.
Last edited by Firebrian; 05-08-2017 at 07:01 PM.
#552
Thread Starter
Save the manuals!
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From: Chicago, IL
Something's not right. I'd still do a full flush to see what's up. If that doesn't give you an easy miracle, I'd think that you have a problem in the pump. Maybe your relieve valve is sticking and allowing the system to over-pressure and heat up more than normal?
#553
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 32,381
Likes: 1,809
From: Schiller Park, IL Member: #317
For additional reference, I also use the turkey baster method to minimize mess, but I exchange less than a full quart, and that's only every two years. However, I've been doing this since the car was just 6 years old so at no point in it's history was the fluid ever very old. My pump also has just under 18k miles on it, cap/seal is original.
#554
^Either the above, or perhaps the seal on the cap has gone bad and allows some fluid weep when the system is properly filled? But I agree that something isn't right here, there really shouldn't be boil over with fresh fluid, low mile pump, normal driving, and the general fluid temps listed above....
The Dodge Cummins trucks had a common issue where the cap vent hole gets plugged up and there's no way to release reservoir pressure. Our reservoir caps are spring loaded though I don't know if there's a secondary path under that orange gasket to keep pressure from venting. What pressure do those relieve at? My pump really doesn't leak fluid when it's running. If it does, it's only the lightest bit of dampness right around the filler neck base. It's probably more from the brief relief of pressure when I pop the cap and some oily mist ends deposits around filler neck. Today I went for a drive in 55 deg weather and the reservoir was slightly pressurized at the end of a 20 mile drive. The fluid at that time was 175 deg F....too low to be boiled off/mist.
I read a lot of posts from various sites about reservoirs being pressurized being fairly common, even on new vehicles. Some consider it normal. Others don't. Then you have the vehicles that are blowing PS fluid all over the alternator/serpentine belt....that's not normal. Considering the pump casing is only 3-4 inches from the engine exhaust header, wouldn't putting a heat shield on the back of the pump be helpful to reduce radiant heat absorption? The installed heat shield off the closest cylinder directs heat directly at the pump reservoir. Not a great design.
There will always be some misting which is normal even at the correct operating temperature (275 degrees measured at the reservoir).
The above statement was made about a month ago in this thread. Clearly that's too hot a temp for our PS systems.
Last edited by Firebrian; 05-14-2017 at 10:43 PM.
#555
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 32,381
Likes: 1,809
From: Schiller Park, IL Member: #317
There will always be some misting which is normal even at the correct operating temperature (275 degrees measured at the reservoir).
#556
Thread Starter
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Chicago, IL
Per one of the points you made above, I wonder if you are getting an aerosol because air is being pumped in to your fluid. When you look at it when the right after turning off the engine, is it foamy or a different color from what it is when you start the engine cold?
#557
I opted for this location
I'm just getting my suspension back together and once it's on the road I can see if my fluid getting and staying hot was the issue or if the issue is something else. The fluid in mine was ATF (not my choice) and was constantly "weeping" out of the cap. One drive from my house to my buddies shop in sac via the freeway (75 miles) we had the car up on the lift and as we turn the tires left and right we could watch fluid fluid come out of the cap with the car off and it had been sitting for 30 minutes. The pump is a Turn1 pump (put on a few years ago by previous owner) and the rack is the original rack from 2000 and it was a PSC optioned car.
I'm just getting my suspension back together and once it's on the road I can see if my fluid getting and staying hot was the issue or if the issue is something else. The fluid in mine was ATF (not my choice) and was constantly "weeping" out of the cap. One drive from my house to my buddies shop in sac via the freeway (75 miles) we had the car up on the lift and as we turn the tires left and right we could watch fluid fluid come out of the cap with the car off and it had been sitting for 30 minutes. The pump is a Turn1 pump (put on a few years ago by previous owner) and the rack is the original rack from 2000 and it was a PSC optioned car.
#558
I've been using auto trans fluid in all my PS Pumps in every car since like 2005 when I read that was what was called for in the service manual of the nissan car (240sx) I had at the time. Seemed kinda strange at first but... eh? Ill put ATF in my LS1 pump like everything else.
#559
Thread Starter
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Chicago, IL
I've been using auto trans fluid in all my PS Pumps in every car since like 2005 when I read that was what was called for in the service manual of the nissan car (240sx) I had at the time. Seemed kinda strange at first but... eh? Ill put ATF in my LS1 pump like everything else.
... So you found out that you had been putting incorrect fluids in your vehicles based on the specs for one car made long ago...
#560
So the ATF in my pump might be the problem I'm having??