05-18-2016, 01:55 PM
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Power Steering Cooling Success
04-12-2017, 10:18 PM
#521
My hypothesis is that the cooler makes dirty fluid perform a little better for a little longer but a flush can just take care of the issue all together.
04-13-2017, 02:54 AM
#522
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I agree, this has been my experience. My '98 didn't come with a cooler, and after 19 years it's never left so much as a stain around the cap or a drip of PS fluid from anywhere. And that's with 17x9/275mm SS wheels/tires since 2005. But I refresh the fluid regularly.
On the other hand, I was a bit more neglectful of the fluid on my '02 for a time, and it developed the weeping cap problem even with the stock cooler, until the fluid was fresh again. I deleted the cooler prior to it failing and didn't bother installing an aftermarket cooler (not needed for my purposes and climate IMO.) Fresh fluid had no problems handling the temps of normal driving in my climate.
04-13-2017, 07:54 AM
#523
FormerVendor
I hope it's okay to resurrect this thread. I deleted my stock power steering cooler several months ago due to it failing and cross-contaminating engine coolant and power steering fluid.
I didn't think I'd want or need a cooler since I just drive around town in temperate climate (only gets into the 80s+ here a few weeks out of the year). So, when I deleted the cooler, I cut my return hose to just the right length to reach the pump reservoir.
Now, I'm beginning to think I might need/want a cooler. . . but my return line is too short to reach behind the air dam.
Is there any reason whatsoever why I wouldn't just be able to get a 3/8" barb coupler/connector and extend my ps return line?
Why am I now considering a cooler? Well, I'm getting power steering fluid on the driveway. . . which has never been a problem before. I had a mechanic I trust look at it and he thinks it's leaking form the reservoir/pump. But, knowing these cars, I think it's just been barfing out the top of the pressure release cap as is commonly reported. I have placed a scrunchie around the cap to catch any future barfs and the "leak" seems to have slowed and will hopefully stop (judging by drips on the pan on my driveway). At which point, I need to start figuring out why the "barfing" is so much more prevalent that it was before. . . I'm thinking: (1) I didn't flush the ps fluid as well as I thought and there might still be some water/coolant in the lines. (2) There might still be some air in the lines? (3) I might need a cooler after all. (4) It might just be time for a new pump (it's noisy).
Thoughts? Especially about the (admittedly simple/paranoid) question in bold?
I didn't think I'd want or need a cooler since I just drive around town in temperate climate (only gets into the 80s+ here a few weeks out of the year). So, when I deleted the cooler, I cut my return hose to just the right length to reach the pump reservoir.
Now, I'm beginning to think I might need/want a cooler. . . but my return line is too short to reach behind the air dam.
Is there any reason whatsoever why I wouldn't just be able to get a 3/8" barb coupler/connector and extend my ps return line?
Why am I now considering a cooler? Well, I'm getting power steering fluid on the driveway. . . which has never been a problem before. I had a mechanic I trust look at it and he thinks it's leaking form the reservoir/pump. But, knowing these cars, I think it's just been barfing out the top of the pressure release cap as is commonly reported. I have placed a scrunchie around the cap to catch any future barfs and the "leak" seems to have slowed and will hopefully stop (judging by drips on the pan on my driveway). At which point, I need to start figuring out why the "barfing" is so much more prevalent that it was before. . . I'm thinking: (1) I didn't flush the ps fluid as well as I thought and there might still be some water/coolant in the lines. (2) There might still be some air in the lines? (3) I might need a cooler after all. (4) It might just be time for a new pump (it's noisy).
Thoughts? Especially about the (admittedly simple/paranoid) question in bold?
From the sounds of your situation, the fluid out of the cap is the result of the power steering system overheating, as you know. There will always be some misting which is normal even at the correct operating temperature (275 degrees is the maximum fluid temperature measured at the reservoir). If you got coolant in the steering system, the coolant could have damaged the pump causing the overhearing due to lack of lubrication. This could also cause the overheating issue and also the chance of your seals being damaged causing the pump to leak as well. We can rebuild your pump and upgrade it to reduce horse power consumption and reduce fluid temperature. This would keep the pump from overheating. Usually a pump with our upgrades does not require a cooler, but each system is different and the temperature should be monitored and a cooler added if needed. If you run a full synthetic power steering fluid, it will also help aid in reducing the fluid temperature.
If you need more help, feel free to contact our tech support for further assist.
Thanks,
Junior
Last edited by steering_experts1; 05-17-2017 at 02:59 PM. Reason: Typo
04-13-2017, 08:07 AM
#524
It's great to see TurnOne as a sponsor here! I think I probably mentioned it earlier on in the thread, but TurnOne rebuilt my stock pump (with stock valving) 40K miles ago when the bearings went out. (I also fully flushed my fluid at that time.)
The pump and system have performed flawlessly and the pump has stayed clean enough to eat off of.
The pump and system have performed flawlessly and the pump has stayed clean enough to eat off of.
04-13-2017, 08:13 AM
#525
FormerVendor
It's great to see TurnOne as a sponsor here! I think I probably mentioned it earlier on in the thread, but TurnOne rebuilt my stock pump (with stock valving) 40K miles ago when the bearings went out. (I also fully flushed my fluid at that time.)
The pump and system have performed flawlessly and the pump has stayed clean enough to eat off of.
The pump and system have performed flawlessly and the pump has stayed clean enough to eat off of.
Glad to hear everything is still working great!
Thank you for your business!
Junior
04-13-2017, 09:21 AM
#526
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Hello,
From the sounds of your situation, the fluid out of the cap is the result of the power steering system overheating, as you know. There will always be some misting which is normal even at the correct operating temperature (275 degrees measured at the reservoir). If you got coolant in the steering system, the coolant could have damaged the pump causing the overhearing due to lack of lubrication. This could also cause the overheating issue and also the chance of your seals being damaged causing the pump to leak as well. We can rebuild your pump and upgrade it to reduce horse power consumption and reduce fluid temperature. This would keep the pump from overheating. Usually a pump with our upgrades does not require a cooler, but each system is different and the temperature should be monitored and a cooler added if needed. If you run a full synthetic power steering fluid, it will also help aid in reducing the fluid temperature.
If you need more help, feel free to contact our tech support for further assist.
Thanks,
Junior
From the sounds of your situation, the fluid out of the cap is the result of the power steering system overheating, as you know. There will always be some misting which is normal even at the correct operating temperature (275 degrees measured at the reservoir). If you got coolant in the steering system, the coolant could have damaged the pump causing the overhearing due to lack of lubrication. This could also cause the overheating issue and also the chance of your seals being damaged causing the pump to leak as well. We can rebuild your pump and upgrade it to reduce horse power consumption and reduce fluid temperature. This would keep the pump from overheating. Usually a pump with our upgrades does not require a cooler, but each system is different and the temperature should be monitored and a cooler added if needed. If you run a full synthetic power steering fluid, it will also help aid in reducing the fluid temperature.
If you need more help, feel free to contact our tech support for further assist.
Thanks,
Junior
Cost and the inability to drive the car during the shipping and rebuild time is the primary consideration.
Thanks again!
04-14-2017, 09:00 PM
#527
TECH Senior Member
Hi Junior/steering_experts1,
It looks like I'll be needing my rack to be rebuilt soon...
What is the turn-around-time...?
Will I get my original rack back...?
2001 TA
It looks like I'll be needing my rack to be rebuilt soon...
What is the turn-around-time...?
Will I get my original rack back...?
2001 TA
04-14-2017, 10:02 PM
#528
FormerVendor
Yes, we will rebuild your rack and return it to you.
Thanks,
Junior
04-14-2017, 10:05 PM
#529
FormerVendor
Thanks! I was actually considering a TurnOne (new) pump and pulley. I don't need the extra performance, but I only want to screw around with steering and a steering fluid flush one more time. I get the sense a parts store pump might begin an odyssey that I'll tire of quickly!
Cost and the inability to drive the car during the shipping and rebuild time is the primary consideration.
Thanks again!
Cost and the inability to drive the car during the shipping and rebuild time is the primary consideration.
Thanks again!
We would only need your pump for about a week, and the cost would start at $200 to rebuild and upgrade your pump. The rebuild and upgrade would give you the same specs as one of our new pumps would have. If there is anything we can do to help in the future, please feel free to let us know.
Thanks,
Junior
04-15-2017, 03:33 PM
#531
FormerVendor
We try and do everything on a first come first serve basis. The rack rebuild lead time is generally 2-3 weeks. We can do it quicker, but if we have to bump you to the front of the line, there is a $150 expedition fee. Pump rebuild lead time is about a week, 2 at the very most.
Thanks,
Junior
04-15-2017, 04:54 PM
#532
Rack rebuilds start at $250 for the f-body.
We try and do everything on a first come first serve basis. The rack rebuild lead time is generally 2-3 weeks. We can do it quicker, but if we have to bump you to the front of the line, there is a $150 expedition fee. Pump rebuild lead time is about a week, 2 at the very most.
Thanks,
Junior
We try and do everything on a first come first serve basis. The rack rebuild lead time is generally 2-3 weeks. We can do it quicker, but if we have to bump you to the front of the line, there is a $150 expedition fee. Pump rebuild lead time is about a week, 2 at the very most.
Thanks,
Junior
.
04-29-2017, 04:04 PM
#534
The hose that connects to the rack down below reached to my aftermarket cooler where you see it mounted in the picture. Then I know I replaced the hose that goes from the new cooler to the bottom port on the reservoir.
.
04-29-2017, 04:15 PM
#535
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If you look at mine....post #5 on page 1 of this thread.......If I remember correctly.....
The hose that connects to the rack down below reached to my aftermarket cooler where you see it mounted in the picture. Then I know I replaced the hose that goes from the new cooler to the bottom port on the reservoir.
.
The hose that connects to the rack down below reached to my aftermarket cooler where you see it mounted in the picture. Then I know I replaced the hose that goes from the new cooler to the bottom port on the reservoir.
.
So what's the deal with people saying remove the pressure hose and change the hose? I'm confused even after reading all this lol. I was just thinking of taking off the 2 hoses that connect to the stock cooler to the new cooler? And of course get the 99 z28 upper radiator hose
04-29-2017, 07:19 PM
#536
It's the weak link in any power steering system and the first thing to leak on you. If you are going to the trouble to drain the system and service it, preemptively changing the hose is usually a good idea. More often than not, changing the pressure hose will elongate the time until you have to service the system again.
04-30-2017, 05:31 AM
#537
So what's the deal with people saying remove the pressure hose and change the hose? I'm confused even after reading all this lol. I was just thinking of taking off the 2 hoses that connect to the stock cooler to the new cooler? And of course get the 99 z28 upper radiator hose
All I did when I removed the factory PS fluid cooler....I cut both rubber hoses with a razor knife right close to the connection ports on the cooler pipe. So I had two long lines remaining.
I ran the original hose that comes from the rack to my new cooler......then I put a new piece of 3/8" hose from the new cooler back to the reservoir port. Its been fine since I did this mod.....
.
04-30-2017, 05:19 PM
#538
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If they both reach your new cooler location....do it. Thats all you need to do.
All I did when I removed the factory PS fluid cooler....I cut both rubber hoses with a razor knife right close to the connection ports on the cooler pipe. So I had two long lines remaining.
I ran the original hose that comes from the rack to my new cooler......then I put a new piece of 3/8" hose from the new cooler back to the reservoir port. Its been fine since I did this mod.....
.
All I did when I removed the factory PS fluid cooler....I cut both rubber hoses with a razor knife right close to the connection ports on the cooler pipe. So I had two long lines remaining.
I ran the original hose that comes from the rack to my new cooler......then I put a new piece of 3/8" hose from the new cooler back to the reservoir port. Its been fine since I did this mod.....
.
04-30-2017, 05:24 PM
#539
And.....I don't know if you plan to locate the new cooler where I mounted mine.....but if you do and you use a razor knife to make that same cut out in your air dam like I did....
Your PS fluid will never get more than warm, no matter how hard you drive it. I have ran the **** out of my car in hot *** south Florida heat, then hit mine several different times with a laser temp gauge. I have never seen higher than 120-130*F if I remember right. Either way, I can always, at any time, put my fingers on the cooler tubes and leave them there, its only warm to the touch.
And that little cut out has zero affect on radiator cooling. The air dam stays as stiff as was before.
.
Your PS fluid will never get more than warm, no matter how hard you drive it. I have ran the **** out of my car in hot *** south Florida heat, then hit mine several different times with a laser temp gauge. I have never seen higher than 120-130*F if I remember right. Either way, I can always, at any time, put my fingers on the cooler tubes and leave them there, its only warm to the touch.
And that little cut out has zero affect on radiator cooling. The air dam stays as stiff as was before.
.
04-30-2017, 05:55 PM
#540
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And.....I don't know if you plan to locate the new cooler where I mounted mine.....but if you do and you use a razor knife to make that same cut out in your air dam like I did....
Your PS fluid will never get more than warm, no matter how hard you drive it. I have ran the **** out of my car in hot *** south Florida heat, then hit mine several different times with a laser temp gauge. I have never seen higher than 120-130*F if I remember right. Either way, I can always, at any time, put my fingers on the cooler tubes and leave them there, its only warm to the touch.
And that little cut out has zero affect on radiator cooling. The air dam stays as stiff as was before.
.
Your PS fluid will never get more than warm, no matter how hard you drive it. I have ran the **** out of my car in hot *** south Florida heat, then hit mine several different times with a laser temp gauge. I have never seen higher than 120-130*F if I remember right. Either way, I can always, at any time, put my fingers on the cooler tubes and leave them there, its only warm to the touch.
And that little cut out has zero affect on radiator cooling. The air dam stays as stiff as was before.
.