RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Just some follow up info from today.

I didn't get a chance to drive the car far, nor idle through enough traffic to get the engine hot enough for fan engagement, but I did get some info on coolant temps from radiator inlet to outlet.

After steady low rpm cruising for about a mile, then slow speeds down a couple neighborhood streets and pulling into my driveway, coolant temp on the radiator inlet hose was 190°F, and temp on the radiator outlet hose was 170°F. I let it sit and idle in the driveway for about 2-3 minutes, then noted 195°F radiator inlet hose temp, and 185°F raidator outlet hose temp.

So the radiator's ability to cool seems to get cut in half after a very short while of idling. Heat soak caused a 15° temp increase in outlet temp with only a 5° increase in inlet temp.

So it stands to reason that if coolant temp reaches the allowed 227°F point prior to fan engagement, then the outlet temp of the radiator will likely be above 200°F by that time.

I will try to remember to do continued tests on this when the weather gets warmer. It was only 56°F for today's test.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

That's a good point. As the flow of water slows down as the car idles and needs less cooling, the temperatures from the inlet to the outlet should come closer to equalizing. (I never thought about that.) For a daily driver, its probably more often in this state vs. high RPM with a greater temperature spread.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

I, too, had considered just skipping adding the aftermarket cooler, but I have always had issues with seeping fluid from the reservoir on each LS1 Camaro I've had -- even with the factory cooler. Hell, my '01 Z28 would blow the cap off.

For $30 bucks, it's cheap and easy.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Wow. Do you think this was due to coolant seeping in and overpressurizing the system? I've never encountered this with any of my four LS1 F-bodies, even on 90°+ days both with and without factory coolers.

I agree that it's not expensive or hard to do, but it does introduce an additional failure point should it be the victim of some sort of impact. I realize that the risk is small, so if I used the car in such a way that temps were getting critically hot on a regular basis, then I too would have probably installed a cooler.

Empatho

iTrader: (16)

I removed the factory ps heater I mean cooler a couple of years ago and I haven't had any problems since. I do plan on adding a cooler since I'm planning on attending some autox events.

DarkblueTA

I got rid of the factory cooler and went aftermarket. I must have had the ONLY one that the ID of the hose (that came in the kit) was smaller than the areas it attached to.

I could not, for the life of me, get either end of the hose to fit on the cooler OR the PS pump. I finally opened the hose up using a 1/4" 7mm socket and let it sit over night like this. It worked as the procedure opened the hose just enough to allow me to put the hose on (not easily either).

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

I have no idea. I only had that car for a year, but it had nearly 100k when I sold it. Ran great, but didn't like the reservoir cap

I hear ya. I still debate if I should have messed with it, but it's easy enough to remove should I desire.

It was very tight for me as well, but lubing it with some PS fluid helped a lot.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

Took the car out for a bit yesterday... No fluid from the reservoir! I was also surprised how warm/hot [to the touch] the cooler and lines were, so it's definitely working. I'm still not too happy with the cooler location, but "it is what it is."

Atrus_SS

iTrader: (1)

Could you guys give me a little info?

1) Where does the feed line to the OE "cooler" originate? From the rack or from the pump?
2) Where does the return line from the OE "cooler" end? The rack or the pump?
3) Is the feed line to the OE "cooler" high pressure or is it low pressure?
4) Is the return line from the OE "cooler" high pressure or is it low pressure?
5) Do the OE lines fit over the supplied Derale 11/32 fittings with just hose clamps, or are additional adapters required? I've seen both mentioned in this thread.

Thanks! I noticed this thread last week and this is perfect timing as I want to flush my coolant, and did a half-assed flush on my PS system in preparation for the upcoming driving season. Already ordered the !cooler radiator hose, just need to get an aftermarket cooler plumbed in so I can move forward with the rad hose swap and system flushes. Before seeing this thread, didn't even realize these stock coolers could be problematic.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

1) Where does the feed line to the OE "cooler" originate? From the rack or from the pump?
From the steering rack
2) Where does the return line from the OE "cooler" end? The rack or the pump?
At the pump (the underside of the reservoir)
3) Is the feed line to the OE "cooler" high pressure or is it low pressure?
Low pressure
4) Is the return line from the OE "cooler" high pressure or is it low pressure?
Low pressure
5) Do the OE lines fit over the supplied Derale 11/32 fittings with just hose clamps, or are additional adapters required? I've seen both mentioned in this thread.
Mine fit fine with some "lube" (ie: rubbed the fittings with ps fluid)

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

All the other questions were answered perfectly above, but I just thought I'd elaborate a bit more on this one.

The OE hose is 3/8", so technically it's going to be 1/32" too loose for the aftermarket cooler fitting. This hasn't seemed to cause a problem for anyone, especially since it's low pressure, but personally I would use fuel injection style clamps on that line since it's marginally too big.

On the other side of things, the stock reservoir has a 3/8" nipple, so the aftermarket 11/32" hose is technically too small. I remember someone earlier in this thread was having some issues getting the smaller hose fully onto the nipple, but I guess if you strech and/or lube (as mentioned above) the hose, it should fit.

It's too bad that the aftermarket coolers people select for this purpose aren't made in a 3/8" size.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

Ah, yes... Good to note. This was the only part of the install that was frustrating. Just ensure you've got enough fluid on the end of the hose and just wiggle it on as far as it will go. I've got about an 1/8" of space, but it's tight enough not to leak.

Atrus_SS

iTrader: (1)

Cool, thanks guys! Now knowing that they are both low pressure, I'm not overly concerned if the ID's aren't perfectly matched.

I am kind of considering going with a smaller Derale unit (12", possibly a 16") and mounting it on the back of the passenger side fan shroud. The car's a cruiser so it won't see any real strenuous activity. I know it's not a big deal, but mounting under the frame there still makes me nervous. Considering I would probably be fine without one at all, I think the small one would do perfectly fine.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

The one in the original post came with adapters for several sizes but it looks like the Derale coolers are much more limiting. (They do have a version with AN fittings and their high end heat sink model does have 3/8 barbs.)

Atrus_SS

iTrader: (1)

Looks like Summit does have the permacool 24" unit, but it's $66. The Derale 24" unit is $31. For me, I'll go with the Derale. Worst case, I use a double-barb reducer like someone showed in this thread. I like as few "connections" as possible, but it wouldn't be a big deal and would cost a lot less than $35.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Why? The spoiler protects it. I've had a few bent fins from small stones etc. bouncing up but major dents and dings from a dufus (me) under the car with a wrench. The spoiler also protects it from me and if you put yours in a more open space, I think you'd have the same issues down the road.

The other thing to go back to is that the frame rail coolers allow for passive air flow over them. I you use a different type of (smaller) cooler, you'll need active air flow over them in order to do the job - and that comes with downsides.

Atrus_SS

iTrader: (1)

I follow you. My rationale is:

1) The spoiler protects it, but in the unlikely event I hit something on the road, hit a parking block, etc - that spoiler could be damaged/gone quickly. Rupture a line and you're not going anywhere. Small likelihood, but it could happen. I'm a very risk adverse person
2) I am still using a Derale frame mount unit - it's just a 13" unit versus the 24" you all are using. So, same fittings, same "convection" cooling method. Just a different mounting place.
3) I am a pure street car, no autocrossing, not doing a lot of cornering. I most likely could get away without any cooler at all. I am thinking/hoping that the 12" cooler will keep everything cool enough for me

The smaller cooler mounted to the passenger side of the radiator shroud will hopefully do the job from a cooling standpoint, and I prefer the location for the reasons I mentioned above. Worst case, I blew $30 on a cooler that's inadequate and I'll go for a larger cooler. Worth a shot in my mind.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I understand your concerns about the cooler, they were my concerns as well. It sounds like your usage parameters are about the same as mine, and your climate is also very similar, so I would agree that you probably don't actually "need" one.

I'm still intending to leave mine coolerless, and I still plan to report back with fluid temp readings once the weather gets warmer.

Atrus_SS

iTrader: (1)

I'd like to hear what your results are.

Actually, my car lived it's life in Carol Springs until I bought it in June of last year and brought it to the Detroit area.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Just an FYI for others looking at the rail mounted location - The cooler actually mounts up behind the level of the bumper, so if you hit anything that will damage the cooler, you'd need to tear up the bumper first.