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Power Steering Cooling Success
08-07-2011, 05:03 PM
#121
I also just got done putting a frame rail cooler (Derale 13221) on it for insurance - even with the Turn One pump, the fluid still gets pretty toasty. Had to get a little creative with the plumbing since I wanted to run AN fittings, but it is on and working. Hopefully this pump + cooler + Redline PS fluid will last a long time.
08-07-2011, 11:21 PM
#122
Read the GM High Tech Performance article in the original post. Cooling is needed for the stock pump. If you go with a TurmOne racing pump and you live in a densely populated city or do a lot of slow speed driving, you can do without the cooler but your low speed steering will suck.
Its all relative. Having increased effort every once in a while is different vs. if you are in a situation where that accounts for 70% of the driving.
08-08-2011, 07:25 AM
#123
Regurgitating an article that you and I have both read does not make me agree with it any more the second time than it did the first. Correct me if I'm wrong, but you don't appear to have any personal experience driving with the Turn One pump. If you did, you'd know that "your low speed steering will suck" is a huge overstatement. I know this because I was just moving my car around in tight quarters yesterday, and it wasn't even remotely an issue. I understand what you are trying to say...it wasn't as easy as it was when I had the stock, overboosted pump, but it isn't like I was driving a manual rack with 275+ tires on the front like you seem to be making it out to be.
"It's all relative" means nothing if you have done nothing more than read about it in a magazine.
"It's all relative" means nothing if you have done nothing more than read about it in a magazine.
08-08-2011, 10:33 AM
#124
Regurgitating an article that you and I have both read does not make me agree with it any more the second time than it did the first. Correct me if I'm wrong, but you don't appear to have any personal experience driving with the Turn One pump. If you did, you'd know that "your low speed steering will suck" is a huge overstatement. I know this because I was just moving my car around in tight quarters yesterday, and it wasn't even remotely an issue. I understand what you are trying to say...it wasn't as easy as it was when I had the stock, overboosted pump, but it isn't like I was driving a manual rack with 275+ tires on the front like you seem to be making it out to be.
"It's all relative" means nothing if you have done nothing more than read about it in a magazine.
"It's all relative" means nothing if you have done nothing more than read about it in a magazine.
TurnOne is great and I do have a TurnOne pump. After consulting with them, we determined that the racing setup would indeed "suck" on MY car given where I drive most of MY time. Therefore they did a stock rebuild on my pump and its magnificent! I highly recommend their products and services and would do it all over again. I also highly recommend that anyone needing a new pump consult them directly to determine what's best for their application. TurnOne is incredibly knowledgeable and was a pleasure to work with!
After investing in my TurnOne rebuild, I decided to upgrade the cooling to better take care of the pump. Hence this thread.
08-10-2011, 04:25 PM
#125
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Finally installed mine.. I've had it sitting around since this past winter. Was pretty easy. I just cut the return line and double clamped it. I was going to put a flare on it, but I didn't have the tool and I've been running around enough today. A heatsink should be enough to dissipate some heat. If I still have boiling issues I'll install a small 12v fan.
08-10-2011, 04:46 PM
#126
How did you connect the hose from the cooler that goes to the metal/rubber hose to the power steering rack? I am using a barb fitting and a screw type clamp, and am getting a very slight leak. I have tried three different clamps and they all do the same thing. I don't know if the hose is bad or the barb.
08-10-2011, 05:49 PM
#127
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^ I cut the metal line at a straight point coming out of the rack, then just cleaned it off and slid it over using two clamps (not my preferred method.) If anything, get some of that Shellac (old brown sticky crap) and use it on the hose and line after you clean it off REALLY well. I haven't driven it yet. I may drive it tomorrow and then I'll check for leaks.
Maybe chop an inch off your hose and start fresh.
Maybe chop an inch off your hose and start fresh.
08-10-2011, 10:35 PM
#128
How did you connect the hose from the cooler that goes to the metal/rubber hose to the power steering rack? I am using a barb fitting and a screw type clamp, and am getting a very slight leak. I have tried three different clamps and they all do the same thing. I don't know if the hose is bad or the barb.
08-10-2011, 10:42 PM
#129
^ I cut the metal line at a straight point coming out of the rack, then just cleaned it off and slid it over using two clamps (not my preferred method.) If anything, get some of that Shellac (old brown sticky crap) and use it on the hose and line after you clean it off REALLY well. I haven't driven it yet. I may drive it tomorrow and then I'll check for leaks.
Maybe chop an inch off your hose and start fresh.
Maybe chop an inch off your hose and start fresh.
But why did you cut the metal line coming out of the rack? I just ran that factory metal/rubber line to my cooler and attached that rubber line end to the cooler. Then ran a new piece of 3/8" hose up to the reservoir port.
Was the rubber part of your metal/rubber line messed up?
.
08-23-2011, 09:53 PM
#133
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out here today. it is spaced a little between the condenser I had the ac running today too didnt see a difference ill let you know if anything changes. Whats wrong with it on the condenser?
08-23-2011, 10:10 PM
#134
It just cuts down the over-all cooling efficiency.
But let us know. All cars are different. Might be fine.
.
08-23-2011, 10:14 PM
#135
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The power steering cooler gets pretty hot.....the condensor also gets pretty hot........that entire area of the condensor that is being covered with the hot power steering cooler won't allow any ambient cooling air to pass through the condensor. It will just be hot air off the PS cooler. That means that area of the condensor won't get cooled. Which means that the hot air off the condensor will go right into the radiator and heat it up.
It just cuts down the over-all cooling efficiency.
But let us know. All cars are different. Might be fine.
.
It just cuts down the over-all cooling efficiency.
But let us know. All cars are different. Might be fine.
.
08-23-2011, 11:29 PM
#136
Putting the cooler before the condenser will just cause the other cooling systems to work harder. The fans will come on more often, etc. Until... things get really hot and the fans can't keep up with the extra cooling load - then the engine will overheat.
I suspect as long as this setup is kept west of the Sierras, things will be OK. Further south or east could be more problematic.
I suspect as long as this setup is kept west of the Sierras, things will be OK. Further south or east could be more problematic.
09-10-2011, 02:57 PM
#138
I've been monitoring my p/s fluid temps since I completed this mod. My cooler is the smaller size with 1 "loop", I have no before temps though. After driving with a lot of revs in town on 80*f day, accelerating briskly, the cooler fins read 45*c (100F) and the p/s dipstick was 55-60 *c (130F or so), def cooler than the rad fluid which was 85C after sitting, all temps taken after heatsoaking. My cooler is to the left of the center of the airdam, directly in line with the headlight assembly. Seems to be maintaining the temps listed whenever I check them. This thread was a great help, thanks to all contributers for the ideas and pix!!!
09-10-2011, 06:03 PM
#139
I've been monitoring my p/s fluid temps since I completed this mod. My cooler is the smaller size with 1 "loop", I have no before temps though. After driving with a lot of revs in town on 80*f day, accelerating briskly, the cooler fins read 45*c (100F) and the p/s dipstick was 55-60 *c (130F or so), def cooler than the rad fluid which was 85C after sitting, all temps taken after heatsoaking. My cooler is to the left of the center of the airdam, directly in line with the headlight assembly. Seems to be maintaining the temps listed whenever I check them. This thread was a great help, thanks to all contributers for the ideas and pix!!!
Same with mine, although I haven't taken temp readings. If I, or anyone, ever puts there hand on their factory cooler after the engine is up to operating temp....3rd degree burns and your skin will melt off. If I touch my aftermarket cooler...its always warm-to-hot. But I can always keep my hand on it.
.
09-10-2011, 06:23 PM
#140
^ Yeah, my cooler "feels" hot, but compared to the upper rad hose it is NOTHING. By the numbers, and considering p/s fluid can get up to 300*F (160+*C) when driven aggressively (parking manoeuvers, autocross etc) and it boils at 450*F (all #s from the 'net) I needed to know how hot "hot" was, hence getting the Raytek temp. thing. I feel that this qualifies as a "must do" and Preventative Maintenance modification. The coolant possibly getting into the rack and burned out p/s pumps are expensive, possibly needless repairs. Frankly, if it weren't for this site, I wouldn't have given the factory p/s "cooler" any thought, and it was an easy mod to do. WIN WIN!