myk

iTrader: (4)

So, I'm out there just wanting to take a look at my brakes all around on the '99 T/A. I start out with the right rear tire and notice the lug nuts are EXTREMELY difficult to take off. Sure enough, when the wheel comes off I can see the studs are cross-threaded to hell. The last place to touch my wheels was Discount Tire, and you know how the tire jockeys just slam the air gun on those nuts like it's going out of style.

Meanwhile, I need to figure out what to do here. 'Discount probably won't own up to this, as it's been over a year since they've touched the car, so what're my options? I was reading that you can "punch" or "hammer" the studs out, but I figure that's probably bad for the axles or whatever? Just for laughs I called the local dealership for a quote and they gave me $140 PER WHEEL!!!!

Any advice is appreciated!

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

No special tools needed.. Just use a large nut as a spacer and impact the lugs on till they're seated. Easy way..

And no.. That's not the first time I've heard of this happening.. They broke one of mine. Those places are known for fukin up a wet dream. That's why I don't let anyone touch my car anymore. I"M the only one allowed to break stuff!

Here's a pic for reference.. I knew someone would ask one of these days! I got a walk thru about it on my cardomain page I added a number of years ago. Just be sure to "burst" the impact or "pulse it" in about 3 second intervals to keep the stud/nut from getting too warm. I was extra cautious with it so I didn't strip it.


About 3/4 way down the page..
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/463707...ordo-nm-us?p=2

myk

iTrader: (4)

Oh wow thanks, man. But...Can you really just bash those things off of there? Couldn't that be bad news for the axle seal? Also, I don't have an impact gun to use. Would I be able to just wrench those things on there?

F**king Discount Tire....

lowaggie

iTrader: (2)

You can just tap them out with a hammer. I'd hit them with a little wd-40 or pb blaster to help break up any corrosion. when I put mine on, I put the spacer, then used a 4-way (or socket and breaker bar) to tighten them down. Once they are seated they won't come out.

myk

iTrader: (4)

Ok, ok. Obviously I'm going to have to pick up some new studs. But, what do you guys think about the lugs? I figure if they were forced/cross-threaded they're probably trash too, right?

lowaggie

iTrader: (2)

if it was me, I would replace the lug nuts too. Just to be safe.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

It depends.. Most of the time they are IN there and you gotta get one solid hit and it should get it.. if anything, trim it short because the head is really close to the reluctor wheel for the ABS. Putting the stud in is a little tricky.. It will hit the reluctor wheel, but it shouldn't hurt it. Also gonna have to take the e-brake horse-shoe off before you mess with the studs.

When I was working at the dealer we used to just slam the lug studs with a mini-mallet to get them out for a rotor swap.. Easy-****.

and I'm not sure if you can wrench in on.. You can try but it'll take a while.. and yeah, WD-40 won't hurt..

myk

iTrader: (4)

Ok, got as far as getting the caliper off, and even knocked out one of the studs but....there wasn't enough room to get the stud out. How did you guys remove the stud when that backing plate thing is in the way. Did you guys rotate the axle to a point where the stud fell out or something? I also have a question about the e-brake/horse shoe thing. Did you completely remove it, because in your write-up and photos it's on there the whole time.

Thanks again!

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

^ YEah, I removed the brake-shoe-horse-shoe deal completely.. It's tricky to get off. Gotta get one edge off and rotate a screw driver on the section all the way around till ti comes off. Kinda like taking a tire off a wheel.

And I took the stud out on the top like in the pic.. it IS a little tricky, but it's doable.. Wedge and pry if you have to, just try not to ding the ABS reluctor wheel. -Just nothing in the "Sight" of the sensor/magnet.

And yeah, I forgot to take some working pics.. I took the pics after I got everything done.. oops..

myk

iTrader: (4)

Hey don't get me wrong, you've been alot of help. I'm not criticizing, just trying to follow you step by step so I can figure this out. I just don't see how to remove the studs without...I dunno, pulling the axles or bending that backing plate to make room for the studs.


See, I just don't see how I can get enough room to back that stud out...

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

^ Sorry I wasn't up long enough last night.. haven't been sleeping too good.

You can bent the backing plate if you need to, the brake show will have to be bent a LITTLE to get it off.. Gotta get the bottom right (or left) over the axle first to get it started to get it off. It is kind of a pain but once it was out it gives you more room.

I think I was prying on the reluctor ring against the stud to get the stud out. I was afraid I would have to take the axle out as well, so I did what I could to avoid it.

myk

iTrader: (4)

No worries, I need to work on these things earlier in the day lol. In any case, I'll make sure I get the horseshoe thing off. You know, I can't believe there isn't a hole on that backing plate to help get the stud out. Someone on another forum talked about removing the traction control/wheel speed sensor which leaves an opening for the stud but I don't think that applies to LS cars-or to my car anyway...

ANTICOP RAM AIR

iTrader: (7)

im pretty positive theres a bubble in the backing plate that gives you just enough room to get a stud in and out... im not 100% positive but ive done studs on many cars and most of them had a little nick or moon shaped groove somewhere along the hubs rotation. if you can, rotate the axle and look for it...

lowaggie

iTrader: (2)

that's what i was going to say. There should either be a bubble, or a small hole in the backing plate that will let it come out. remove one, spin the hub around to the next one lines up, then do it again. Whoohoo 60 posts! i've been on here a while but I usually just read.

myk

iTrader: (4)

Ha ha. I was ready to tear the axles, rear end, and even the White House out of its foundations to get those wheel studs out. But then I noticed the goddamn wheel speed sensor. Removing that gave me all the room I need to knock the studs out and pull it with ease. $150 a wheel, kiss my a** Courtesy Chevrolet. Discount Tire, burn in hell.

Thanks guys, for all your support...

Nemesis350

iTrader: (11)

Sorry about the bad experience buddy. I worked at Discount Tire back in 2003, and although they do teach the proper techniques for mounting and dismounting, there's always a "newbie" that has no idea what the hell they're doing... Usually i go and request a certain person (that i know) to work on my car.

myk

iTrader: (4)

Despite the anger I can actually sympathize with the Tire company; it's the store manager's fault, not the company itself. I ran a Valvoline shop for a bit and...even with my limited mechanical experience I knew the proper way to do certain things, like replacing lug nuts for example, but there were some times I looked the other way when an employee was performing a service incorrectly.

I dunno what I'm going to do about tires now though. I guess I'll just have the tires fitted to the rims, drive them home and mount them myself when I need to buy tires...