7998

iTrader: (1)

My DD/crapbox will not get up to operating temperature and as a result I have no heat. I bought this 1996 Saturn for $400 a year ago to drive to work since I'm doing about 30k miles a year. So far its been great 33 mpg and haven't put a penny into it.
Around a month or two ago I noticed the temp gauge only goes up 1/4 the way. No biggie, who cares, right? Well I don't have any stinking heat and its been chilly lately.

I thought maybe it was low on coolant, no.

I thought maybe the thermostat was stuck open, nope boiled it and it opened at 196*, twice.

I thought maybe the fan was in some sort of default mode and was staying on, nope.

Even if I let it sit and idle forever it won't get hot.

I'm lost as to what it could be. Any idea's?

I have 3 weeks of work for the rest of the year so I would like to atleast get some heat for those times and then trash the car and buy something else or ideally run it into the ground.


Thanks guys

7998

iTrader: (1)

Anyone?

lt1pwr1

iTrader: (1)

Hmm....interesting. 96' Saturn, do you know what type of heater control switch it has? Is it full manual where you can feel the blend door actually switching when you turn the **** from hot to cold or is it electric? I'm assuming it is full manual being a 96 saturn.

I was going to guess the heater control switch is bad if it is electric but they hardly ever fail if they are manual unless the linkage breaks. I'm assuming since you've had the car a year you have tested the heat last year? The heater hoses aren't bypassing the heater core are they?

My only hesitation with your T-stat is the fact that your gauge isn't going up all the way. I would throw in an A/C delco T-stat for $15 or whatever they are and see if that helps.

7998

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the response.
I can feel the difference between switching it from hot to cold. I do get the smallest amount of heat out it, enough to keep the windshield from re-fogging but thats it.

The thermostat works fine. Like I said I boiled it to make sure it opened and closed twice.
So I took the new thermostat back.
The problem is the car won't reach operating temperature, and thats what is stumping me.
I checked the gauge and it works.

It really is a beater so I don't want to put any real money in it (Taking it to a shop). And I got 30k miles and a year out of it for $400 so it does'nt owe me anything.
I just want to get the rest of the year out of it.
If I thought ghetto-ing some cardboard over the radiator would help I would do it but it won't even get hot idling.

And yes, last year the heat worked and it reached operating temp. If it was over heating I could think of 20 things.

I'd hate to have to wear my snuggie to work

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

for $10 or whatever replace the stat.

just because you boiled it and it opened isn't conclusive proof it works. that only proves the opposite really, that the car should not overheat. It sounds like the stat is not closing, which would be from a worn out or broken spring in the stat. other than that, make sure the stat seats correctly and will block flow in the thermostat housing, that has to happen for the coolant to heat.

lt1pwr1

iTrader: (1)

That is exactly correct and I think you are thinking the opposite OP. When a car won't warm up to operating temperature (assuming it is related to the T-stat) then it is from the T-stat staying stuck open (letting coolant bypass freely). Your problem would be the T-stat isn't closing all the way. You said you tested it and it opened all the way but you need it to close, not open. For the few bucks, throw a T-stat in there.

7998

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys. The more I think about it I just might try a new thermostat regardless of the old one opening. The symptoms all point to the thermostat and even though I did test it twice maybe it has some bypass under pressure.

I can't think of anything else it could be.
If it works beer and pizza is on me.

joshp14

iTrader: (5)

With the engine at operating temp or as close as you can get it, put your hand on each of the two heater hoses by the firewall going to the heater core. Are they hot enough to where you cant keep your hand on them? Is one hot and one warm/cool?