Battery or Starter?
I recently started to notice that my starter is having a tougher time cranking. By "tougher," I mean that it starts slow then increases per rev until the engine starts (starts at 3rd/4th rev; still within the normal 3 seconds). Available clues are the charge gauge falling about 2mm from the full off position in just a few days without driving the car, and just yesterday my dash gauges and meters jump setting (gauge needles flicked & trip meter resetted) from a slow startup, but charge needle goes to third quarter mark after engine starts and remains in normal range (4-6mm past middle mark) throughout the drive.
I don't know how old the battery and starter are, but from the symptoms above, which of two looks the liklier culprit so far?
Any input is greatly appreciated.
I had the same symptoms as you a week ago, as with these types of things I would personally start with the least expensive or least headache inducing solution, a new battery would be prudent i feel, as it is far easier to change that than the pesky starter!
I changed my battery and problem solved! you could also consider a battery " liquid " to remove the sulfate build up, but I dont have first hand experience with these so hopefully someone else may chime in for you.
Regards
G.
Thank you very much for the suggestion. I'll start by cleaning the battery terminals with a spray and metal brush my father uses, then change the battery if that doesn't work. I did see some white, salt-like buildup the last time I looked. It's a good thing I've got a manual trans, so I could always resort to push starting if necessary.
UltimateOrangeSS,
I did briefly consider the alternator, but then dismissed it because, 1, recharging has always been at optimal levels when the engine's running, and 2, the alternator is practically new. My last alternator burned out when my power steering was leaking fluid all over. If I understand "underdrive" correctly, I believe my AC pulley would be counted as one so far...
But speaking of the alternator and battery, can the engine be push-started with a fully functional alternator but completely dead (or disconnected) battery?
How cold was it when that happened? When the weather gets cooler the voltage the battery can supply is lower, hence why bad batteries start to become more apparent in the winter season.
I don't know what you mean about the charge gauge exactly. The exact reading should vary depending on what the state of charge of the battery is, engine speed, and other accessory load. As long as it is 12-14V while the motor is running the alternator is probably doing its job. At any rate, most auto parts places can run a test on the battery and alternator for you so do that before you buy anything.
A bad alternator will take out the battery, too. Verify the alternator is operating properly. You can have the alternator bench tested to make sure it is charging at proper voltage and provides rated current at all speeds.
Verify the battery is in good condition. If it won't charge then it needs to be replaced. If it does charge but the capacity is well below specification then it needs to be replaced. You can have a battery load tested to see if it can deliver rated current and still maintain proper voltage. The battery needs to be charged overnight before this test.
The starter is only as good as the power supply behind it (battery). I weak battery can cause the starter to be damaged. There are ways to test and repair a starter but I would just replace it if it doesn't perform well even after you know you have a healthy alternator and battery.
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