Ls1 Rebuild Failure
11-30-2010, 03:29 AM
#21
Are you sure you put the right size piston back in it? Like i posted above staggering the rings will do nothing as they rotate as the engine runs anyway. From your discrption of how bad it smokes are you sure there just isn't oil in everything burning off? I assume you replaced the rings with new ones, are you sure you got the proper size? With the engine running pull the oil cap off and tell me what happens.
11-30-2010, 06:49 AM
#22
I've built 100s of engines...and yes i did it for a living for many many years,I certainly wouldn't go out of my way to put the ring ends lined up BUT they DON"T rotate at the same rate as you suggest BUT they do rotate.
Now i could see they guy having trouble if it he actually lined all the ring ends up....but i seriously doubt he did that.
For it to smoke like he says something BIG is wrong, like the wrong size piston or he has oil all over everything and in the exhaust. I've started MANY cars with rebuilt engines that smoked like hell for the 1st 15 mins of operation. Most had coolant and oil in the exhaust from the old engine. It takes a while to burn off.
BUt what would i know,I only did this for two dealers over 30 years.
I think maybe some of you shopuld read GM's reccomeneded piston ring replacement procedure under warranty repairs. They don't hone the cylinders....... and they even reuse some of the rings.
Now i could see they guy having trouble if it he actually lined all the ring ends up....but i seriously doubt he did that.
For it to smoke like he says something BIG is wrong, like the wrong size piston or he has oil all over everything and in the exhaust. I've started MANY cars with rebuilt engines that smoked like hell for the 1st 15 mins of operation. Most had coolant and oil in the exhaust from the old engine. It takes a while to burn off.
BUt what would i know,I only did this for two dealers over 30 years.
I think maybe some of you shopuld read GM's reccomeneded piston ring replacement procedure under warranty repairs. They don't hone the cylinders....... and they even reuse some of the rings.
Last edited by O2Form; 11-30-2010 at 07:13 AM.
11-30-2010, 10:49 AM
#23
I've built 100s of engines...and yes i did it for a living for many many years,I certainly wouldn't go out of my way to put the ring ends lined up BUT they DON"T rotate at the same rate as you suggest BUT they do rotate.
Now i could see they guy having trouble if it he actually lined all the ring ends up....but i seriously doubt he did that.
For it to smoke like he says something BIG is wrong, like the wrong size piston or he has oil all over everything and in the exhaust. I've started MANY cars with rebuilt engines that smoked like hell for the 1st 15 mins of operation. Most had coolant and oil in the exhaust from the old engine. It takes a while to burn off.
BUt what would i know,I only did this for two dealers over 30 years.
I think maybe some of you shopuld read GM's reccomeneded piston ring replacement procedure under warranty repairs. They don't hone the cylinders....... and they even reuse some of the rings.
Now i could see they guy having trouble if it he actually lined all the ring ends up....but i seriously doubt he did that.
For it to smoke like he says something BIG is wrong, like the wrong size piston or he has oil all over everything and in the exhaust. I've started MANY cars with rebuilt engines that smoked like hell for the 1st 15 mins of operation. Most had coolant and oil in the exhaust from the old engine. It takes a while to burn off.
BUt what would i know,I only did this for two dealers over 30 years.
I think maybe some of you shopuld read GM's reccomeneded piston ring replacement procedure under warranty repairs. They don't hone the cylinders....... and they even reuse some of the rings.
Why would you not hone the cylinders when you are right there putting new rings in?
11-30-2010, 12:31 PM
#24
I'm not a GM engineer, ask them but they did design the engine. I think that makes them a little more knowlegable than anyone posting up their opinion on the net.
You realize honing the bores WITHOUT a deck plate bolted on is about the dumbest thing you could do. Unless you are just trying to patch something to get by. Unless you are talking about using a ball hone which would be ok BUT its going to generate so much CRAP and contaminate the cylinder walls with media I WOULDn't do it in a complete engine.
Arguing about it doesn't change the fact that if you don't follow the design parameters you will most likely have some type of failure.
I can tell this much I personally had a ls1 that was using 1qt of oil every 400 miles, It was because the rings were not seated properly. I didn't replace the all rings or hone the cylinders to fix it.
You realize honing the bores WITHOUT a deck plate bolted on is about the dumbest thing you could do. Unless you are just trying to patch something to get by. Unless you are talking about using a ball hone which would be ok BUT its going to generate so much CRAP and contaminate the cylinder walls with media I WOULDn't do it in a complete engine.
Arguing about it doesn't change the fact that if you don't follow the design parameters you will most likely have some type of failure.
I can tell this much I personally had a ls1 that was using 1qt of oil every 400 miles, It was because the rings were not seated properly. I didn't replace the all rings or hone the cylinders to fix it.
Last edited by O2Form; 11-30-2010 at 12:50 PM.
12-01-2010, 09:58 AM
#25
I'm not a GM engineer, ask them but they did design the engine. I think that makes them a little more knowlegable than anyone posting up their opinion on the net.
You realize honing the bores WITHOUT a deck plate bolted on is about the dumbest thing you could do. Unless you are just trying to patch something to get by. Unless you are talking about using a ball hone which would be ok BUT its going to generate so much CRAP and contaminate the cylinder walls with media I WOULDn't do it in a complete engine.
Arguing about it doesn't change the fact that if you don't follow the design parameters you will most likely have some type of failure.
I can tell this much I personally had a ls1 that was using 1qt of oil every 400 miles, It was because the rings were not seated properly. I didn't replace the all rings or hone the cylinders to fix it.
You realize honing the bores WITHOUT a deck plate bolted on is about the dumbest thing you could do. Unless you are just trying to patch something to get by. Unless you are talking about using a ball hone which would be ok BUT its going to generate so much CRAP and contaminate the cylinder walls with media I WOULDn't do it in a complete engine.
Arguing about it doesn't change the fact that if you don't follow the design parameters you will most likely have some type of failure.
I can tell this much I personally had a ls1 that was using 1qt of oil every 400 miles, It was because the rings were not seated properly. I didn't replace the all rings or hone the cylinders to fix it.
Yeah I was talking about a ball hone. I understand what you mean by contaminating the engine. I guess that's why it is good to do it before the engine is assembled.
However, I had a 97 Civic back in the day that went through a quart of oil every 300 miles. I got sick of it so I put new valve seals and rings in it and used a ball hone on the cylinders. I just put rags over the crank journals so nothing would get on them. It had 207K on it when I did that. I gave it to my aunt at 230K and it now has 374K on it and still runs great. Now I know there is a difference between a civic engine and a high performance LS1 engine but I think as long as you are careful it shouldn't be a problem.
