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LS1 No start. Need advice.

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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 07:19 PM
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Question LS1 No start. Need advice.

Just bought a 2000 Trans Am WS6 that has an no start issue. The car has been sitting for four years but had been well taken care of before. It has 119k miles on it. \
It has fire, good fuel pressure, good blinking light injector harness, new crank sensor, drained tank, new fuel filter, new wires and plugs, plugs are not washing down with fuel, new ecm and tried the old one to, new injectors, fuel rail cleaned, new battery, injector cleaner in tank.

Still all I get is cranking with a occasionly poof out the intake. Seems like a timing issue. When I first got it it had a crank sensor code. Even though it had a new one. I replaced it and cleared the code. Cranked the car with no luck. Retested for codes and had none.

The car had also been code tested with better more complete code reader from a dealer and it had no codes.

The previcious owner would start the car for time to time and let it idle.
The last time it ran rough and died and has not started since. Fuel pump is cycling.

In help would be much appreciated. Thanks Darren
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by dccmmc
Just bought a 2000 Trans Am WS6 that has an no start issue. The car has been sitting for four years but had been well taken care of before. It has 119k miles on it. \
It has fire, good fuel pressure, good blinking light injector harness, new crank sensor, drained tank, new fuel filter, new wires and plugs, plugs are not washing down with fuel, new ecm and tried the old one to, new injectors, fuel rail cleaned, new battery, injector cleaner in tank.

Still all I get is cranking with a occasionly poof out the intake. Seems like a timing issue. When I first got it it had a crank sensor code. Even though it had a new one. I replaced it and cleared the code. Cranked the car with no luck. Retested for codes and had none.

The car had also been code tested with better more complete code reader from a dealer and it had no codes.

The previcious owner would start the car for time to time and let it idle.
The last time it ran rough and died and has not started since. Fuel pump is cycling.

In help would be much appreciated. Thanks Darren
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 07:28 PM
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Does it sound like it has good compression when you are cranking it? Not very likely at all on these motors (assuming stock and not beaten on), but it may have jumped timing.

Maybe run a compression check?

What also concerns me is the fact that you had a crank sensor code. Just b/c you are getting spark, doesn't mean it is at the correct time. Did you replace it with a GM or aftermarket one? Might want to check the harness going to the CS. The wires commonly break at the connectors.
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 07:30 PM
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Did you check for good compression? That would be my first step. Are you aware if the previous owner was ever into the motor? Could have mistimed it possibly (even though that's very hard to mess up). Also, if the car is cranking, not starting, and the plugs aren't washing out with fuel, that tells me that you aren't getting fuel. A no start car with good fuel pressure will soak the plugs. Have you tried an alternate fuel source such as starting fluid, throttle body cleaner, brake cleaner, etc.. sprayed in the throttle body? Also, what type of plugs were put in? Make sure they are either Delco plugs or NGK plugs and not some garbage plugs like Bosch or something.
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 07:45 PM
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Thanks for the reply. The motor has never been messed with and everything is original except what has been changed to try and correct the problem. I have not compression tested it yet. I also wondered if it could be something with the VATS because it justs down the injectors if the ecm cant read the key chip. Is there a way to test this. Thanks
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 07:48 PM
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Also I have tried starting fluid and I just get the same cranking with maybe a little bigger poof back at me. Not really even a good back fire.
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by dccmmc
Thanks for the reply. The motor has never been messed with and everything is original except what has been changed to try and correct the problem. I have not compression tested it yet. I also wondered if it could be something with the VATS because it justs down the injectors if the ecm cant read the key chip. Is there a way to test this. Thanks
VATS will keep it from cranking at all, and your security light would be on.
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 09:54 PM
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Thanks for the replies so for. I checked the CPS harness and it looked good. Thats what I figured on the VATS but just wanted to make sure. I will check the compression tomorrow. But I am pretty sure there will be no problems with it. Just over looking some kind of wiring/sensor issue. I dont think it would have thrown the timing chain just being started and left at idle. Any more help would be appreciated. This one has me stumped. Thanks again
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 12:04 AM
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What fuel pressure readings did you get?
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 04:11 AM
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If it was VATS then your security light would be flashing. ...

You should get your hands on a handheld scanner do find DTC codes. It'll make narrowing down the issues super easy!
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 11:01 AM
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Fuel pressure = key on-spike to 60 then held steady at 50
cranking 58lbs
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 11:05 AM
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I have a obdII reader and it is showing no codes. It is the same quality as the ones you can rent at oriellys that tells you right on the screen what is wrong-not just the trouble code number.
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 02:04 PM
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Try giving it a little throttle (maybe 1/4 way) as you are cranking and see if it starts. I've seen the GM 3800 motor get a bunch of carbon on the throttle blade and not let any air pass through and the car wouldn't start. At this point, I'm just trying to throw ideas out there.

Did this thing sit outside for 4 years? The other thing I was thinking is you could possibly have corrosion on the connectors either at the PCM or maybe at the CS?

There have also been situations where you would need to do a pin out test to make sure the terminals are actually making contact with eachother. Sometimes they spread over time and don't make contact. That is more common at the PCM though. The 3.8L had that issue at the coil pack harness. You would check for power there and have it, but it wasn't making it to the coils b/c the terminals were spread and not making contact.

Lastly, have you checked the coolant? Maybe he overheated the motor somehow and you have coolant in the cylinders. I bought a 01' Blazer like that. The person cooked the motor so good that it will just crank and crank b/c it lost compression through the blown head gaskets and also because coolant is flooding the cylinders.

Just throwing stuff out there. I would definitely check compression just because it seems you have tried most everything else.
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 03:02 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I will check it out. It will be next week. But please keep the ideas coming. Thanks Darren
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 11:54 PM
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Sounds stupid but does it have spark? I didnt see anywhere where you said it was checked. What does the engine RPM show on the scan tool when you are cranking?
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 08:59 AM
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It does have spark, all the connectors look good(not corroded or broken wires that I can see, antifreeze looks like new. My friend owned the car and it was not miss treated besides letting it sit around. The grounds on back of the left bank cylinder looks good(not corroded). My scanner does not the type that will read while you are cranking the car. It is a key on scanner only. It sure seems like a timing issue to me. I have tried the new flashed computor and the original computor. It has fuel, new battery, new crank sensor, new plugs and wires, good blinking light to injectors. I have power the coil packs(key on-outside pink wire, cranking power to other pink wire). This definately has me stumped. I thought about the what if it slip a tooth on the timing chain-but it has only been started and idled for the past four years with no hard pulls are stress put on it.
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 05:57 PM
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Check your map sensor. I had one go bad and never got a code, just wouldn't start. You should also check all your underhood relays to see if they are getting good voltage.
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 09:50 AM
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For the heck of it, I would try posting a video here. People might notice something you don't.

Did you try cracking the throttle about 1/4 way while cranking? Or maybe pull the IAC and see if it is carboned up?
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 05:47 PM
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need advice i has a no start on a friends car it just turns over has fire to the coils but not the plugs changed the cks still want fire the plugs or the injectors checked all the fuses still have no luck help needed asap
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