jdway93z28

Ok. Go to autozone and get new sockets for 8 bucks each. I had the same problem you have. I had replaced bulbs and flasher. But nothin worked. That's when I looked at the socket. Try turning on the blinker and then go to ur socket and wiggle the wires. If It works change em. With mine the wires going into the socket was bad I wiggled them and they started workin. Replaced the sockets and have been fine ever since.

Tyler_PinkertonZ28

iTrader: (1)

ok, are the sockets plug and play or do I have to splice them in? I do know that with the smalest movement the bulbs go out and they have to be held at a certain place to work.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

They could be any shape if someone changed them before you got the car. I recall that the hazzard flasher is on the left and the turn signal is the one on the right. You might want to test the two with the flashers unpluged just to make sure.

The front and rear bulbs are dual filament. If you can see both filaments lit up using the parking lights, hazzards, brakes, etc. then your sockets are fine. Likewise, if the turn signals produce light, the switch is fine. (The switch just provides power to the flasher, which is connected to the DRL module and beyond.)

If your sockets are good, your flashers are good, your bulbs are good, you could have a bad DRL module. This is a painful purchase to make - so you'll want to be sure. (I'd by an electronic flasher, which will blink no matter what, to confirm before purchasing a DRL module.)

Tyler_PinkertonZ28

iTrader: (1)

I didn't look at it again today, but I'm pretty sure they were vertical with the turn signal flasher being on top. I will spend more time with it tomorrow. I really hope it isn't anything that expensive.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

They are on separate sides for the late model cars. Not sure about your '93. Worth a double check, though. There have been other issues like yours and folks go round and round when they change the wrong flasher.

Tyler_PinkertonZ28

iTrader: (1)

ok, well I will definitely check again tomorrow. It would be well worth it, especially if it works. If they are on separate sides I replaced the one on the left, so hopefully that's all it is... Thanks for helping so much.

Tyler_PinkertonZ28

iTrader: (1)

well, it's 28 degrees and snowing, and I'm still out here playing with this dang car... But, I found out the flasher they sold me was the hazards, so back to advance tomorrow. But realized tonight, whild I cranked it up that with the headlights on the turn signals don't light as the normally would... When I turn on the hazards, the blink but not in sequence with the right side (front only).. Maybe one of the filaments is bad in the front? I just replaced them, but at this point I have no idea...

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Advance won't be able to help you on a thermal flasher. The stock type (thermal) is calibrated for the exact wattage of the bulbs it flashes. (Since your hazzard lights double the bulbs of a turn signal, it will require double the wattage to flash.) I recall that Autozone and Advance don't carry the correct thermal model for the turn signals. (I had to go to Napa to get one locally.) That being said, you should be able to switch to an electronic flasher that they carry, which should work. (The electronic flashers generally do not care what kind of load is on them.)

Tyler_PinkertonZ28

iTrader: (1)

the flasher I pulled had three vertical tabs instead of the two perpindicular tabs... I'll call napa when I get a chance.

Lt1Porsche

iTrader: (6)

Do this, take the bulb out in the rear. Look in the bottom of the socket how many metal tabs in the bottom of the socket do you see. Then look at the bottom of the bulb, how many lead contact points are on the bottom of the bulb?

Tyler_PinkertonZ28

iTrader: (1)

there are two contact points on the bulb and two contact tabs on the socket.

Lt1Porsche

iTrader: (6)

Okay, now look at the position of the tabs and locking pins within the socket in correlation to the position of them on the bulb. My point is....you said they seem to work fine when the bulb is partially turned within the socket but not when fully seated and locked.

Tyler_PinkertonZ28

iTrader: (1)

it seems to only make a connection when partially turned. The right side has a stopping point within the socket for the bulb to make it's best connection. The drivers side (problem side) will turn much farther. But even when held in the best place for a connection, it still won't blink... I just get the same solid light.

Lt1Porsche

iTrader: (6)

ok i just went over the complete wiring diagram for your car. you need to access the harness at the turn signal control switch and look for a solid yellow wire. You need to see if you have current on that wire. The solid yellow wire is the feed wire for the rear left. The light blue feeds the left front but also feeds the light on the dash first. so because the light on the dash illuminates i would say the l/f is working correctly. check the yellow wire for voltage at the switch. if no voltage is found replace the switch. if you do have voltage let me know

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

... look at the diagram again and you'll see that the switch is fine if the current is going through it and lighting the bubs solid. The flasher is not flashing because the thermal element is not heating up enough. This happens when the flasher is bad or a bulbs is out and not drawing enough current through the system.

h_friesen

iTrader: (42)

it was the drl module on my ws6

Lt1Porsche

iTrader: (6)

The light does not light up. He said the indicator on the dash lights up solid. The bulb in the dash if fed off of the power to the l/f and the l/r is a seperate wire.

Lt1Porsche

iTrader: (6)

Correction he did state that they light solid.

Lt1Porsche

iTrader: (6)

The flaser controls the left and the right so if the right is working correctly than the flasher is working. Something else on the left is now allowing the flasher to operate properly.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

For an electronic flasher, yes but not for a thermal flasher. The resistance in the left and right side are different, (different wire lengths, corrosion, etc.) so a failing thermal flasher will behave differently for the left and right. This has happened to me personally with two bad thermal flashers in the past.