Changed the plugs today in 2000 SS
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Southwest La.
Changed the plugs today in 2000 SS Well first I read everything I could on here on how too's and don'ts. I purchased a new shorty pivoting 3/8 ratchet and used it on every one of them including number eight. Pulled the coil packs off of the passenger side and did that whole side with my right arm while facing away from car and took about 45 minutes taking my time. Drivers side was a lot easier except for the zex nitrous unit mounted right in the way but I just worked around it. After all the horror stories I was afraid to tackle it but all went smooth. Good thing I checked them. Grounding strap burnt off of 1,7 and 8 and number 4 looked oil fouled terrible. I think they were like that for a while since I just purchased the car and have never sprayed it. Hope nothing is hurt internally. Also had Autolite 104 plugs in it. Found that strange. I went back with NGK TR6. Thanks for all the posts on here it made it easy.
Its really not that bad, definitely invest in a 3/8 swivel and possible a spark plug socket with a swivel built in. With those 2 and some extensions, its cramped but not bad. All I removed was the AIR pipes, never even touched the coil packs
-Will
-Will
Hmm...Interesting. I'm going to give that a try next time...
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,285
Likes: 1
From: Elgin, Il
Its so wierd maybe because I have somewhat of a small build but I've never had an issue changing plugs on either LT or LS engines, its all about putting your arms at the right angle and/or getting to some of them from the bottom.
I just get at number 8 from the bottom. I don't bother messing with the tight space around the coil packs. Just jack up the front of the car and if you still need more room to get at it I've just pulled the cat off real quick and its a piece of cake.
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Changing plugs on an LS1 F-Body is cake. Takes me 40 minutes or so to do them all, taking my time, and I don't remove anything. I do them all from the top.
The key is to NOT tighten the damn plugs down too much. All they need is to be hand tight, then a 1/4 turn with a ratchet. Then the next time you need to change them they literally fall out. The big pain in the *** with these LS1's and plug changes is the complete lack of room, which keeps you from getting any leverage to loosen these sumbitches. Don't tighten them so much and the next time will be a breeze.
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The key is to NOT tighten the damn plugs down too much. All they need is to be hand tight, then a 1/4 turn with a ratchet. Then the next time you need to change them they literally fall out. The big pain in the *** with these LS1's and plug changes is the complete lack of room, which keeps you from getting any leverage to loosen these sumbitches. Don't tighten them so much and the next time will be a breeze.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Southwest La.
Well I went ahead and put some MSD 8.5 wires on while I was at it and now it sounds like a different car. I took a reading on all the old Autolite Professional wires and they ranged from 780 to 810 ohms. The new MSD were all 25 to 34 ohms. I couldn't believe the difference. Can't wait to take it out tomorrow and see how it does.
12 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,498
Likes: 0
From: Corpus Christi
I'm running the same MSD plugs for about 4 yrs now and still running strong. I always perform an Ohm reading on the wires while changing plugs. wrote down Ohm reading when new so I can refrence them at every plug change. so far so good. difference about 1 0r 2 Ohms. still running them. I stick a 3/8 fuel hose about 3" long on the tip of the plugs to ease installation. once hose feels like its spinning the plug tip, I know there bottomed out. stick a ratchet with plug socket, 1/4 turn and it's all good...